What is This sound from my engine?

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jfoj

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This is the biggest Goat Rope/Cat Herding exercise I have ever seen.

If the rear bolt is broken, I guarantee there is an exhaust tick until the engine warms up slightly. Ask me how I know!

Put a freaking clamp in the thing and move forward. There is NO WAY a shop can tell if there is "air coming through the exhaust manifold". The metal gasket is like 3 separate stainless steel gaskets stacked, it DOES NOT need to be replaced and it is impossible to verify "air" is escaping through this gasket sandwich. If the shop did not have the truck overnight to hear the problem first thing on cold start this is all a waste of time, even if they had it overnight, this is starting to sound like a waste of time. Either the shop did not hear the problem or they do not know what they are looking for.

Marvel Mystery oil will not solve the problem either way.

You could probably put the clamp on in about 30 minutes since it is the passenger side. But you need patience which you do not appear to have.

Funny how you are so obsessive about a tick noise and not the safety problem of the rusted brake lines.
 
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Michigan

Michigan

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This is the biggest Goat Rope/Cat Herding exercise I have ever seen.

If the rear bolt is broken, I guarantee there is an exhaust tick until the engine warms up slightly. Ask me how I know!

Put a freaking clamp in the thing and move forward. There is NO WAY a shop can tell if there is "air coming through the exhaust manifold". The metal gasket is like 3 separate stainless steel gaskets stacked, it DOES NOT need to be replaced and it is impossible to verify "air" is escaping through this gasket sandwich. If the shop did not have the truck overnight to hear the problem first thing on cold start this is all a waste of time, even if they had it overnight, this is starting to sound like a waste of time. Either the shop did not hear the problem or they do not know what they are looking for.

Marvel Mystery oil will not solve the problem either way.

You could probably put the clamp on in about 30 minutes since it is the passenger side. But you need patience which you do not appear to have.

Funny how you are so obsessive about a tick noise and not the safety problem of the rusted brake lines.

The shop did have the truck overnight and got the chance to cold start it first thing in the morning and they heard the noise it's making.

Let me guess, every shop I take it to does not know what their talking about or know what their doing is what your saying? Why would yet another shop turn down my business? He's telling me it's a lifter tick and to do nothing about. I'm sure if it were the exhaust manifold creating the noise then he'd say so and advise to fix it.

How are u going to diagnose my truck over the Internet better than a shop can? Just saying

So like I said my truck is making the exact same noise as the last video I posted of someone else's truck. So is his truck not a lifter sound also?

The sound coming from my truck never completely goes away even when warmed but it gets significantly quieter so this is leading me to believe it's the lifters.

I won't completely disregard your thoughts on the clamp method. I may give it a try when time allows
 

jfoj

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You seem to leave out quite a few details when making statements.

These trucks due also have lifter problem, but they are usually not going to be fixed with the miracle unicorn juice. If the oil changes have been stretched out too far then the lifters wear as I recall.

Both myself an a number of close friends have a LOT of experience with these generations of trucks and we have seen almost every problem they have had over the years.

Personally I have had people miss exhaust leaks and think they are lifter(s) tick(ing) on SO many occasions I cannot even keep track any more.

Good luck to you on this. Put a clamp on the exhaust, eliminate a current or future problem, then move on.

I would be far more worried about the brakes then some noise from the engine at this point!

Whack-A-Mole!
 

1_8TTony

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LS series engine ticks.

If the tick is happening due to a broken manifold bolt, the tick sound would be loudest immediately upon a cold start and eventually go away after a few minutes (not within a matter of seconds.

In this case the tick begins half a minute after the engine is running. This would indicate the lifter has good oil psi inside both its "low pressure" and "high pressure" chambers.

The tick sound goes away after a short time has passed and then comes back at a lower volume and maintaines a steady tick.................Hmm................I would say the lifter checkball is out of roundness.

As the lifter moves up and down, the force of the oil flowing into the lifter causes the oil to pass the checkball and the checkball randomly spins in its seat..........as the ball spins, any imperfection in the ball or the seat surface will create a low oil psi condition for that particular lifter resulting in tick...

Sometimes, a lifter steadily ticks for a minute and then goes away for a few minutes and then comes back and repeates the cycle. This is due to the checkball spinning and the imperfect surface intermittently passing above the checkball seat, temporarily allowing low oil psi resulting in tick.

To understand what I am talking about, you need to understand how a lifter works. LS series lifters are made up of the lifter body, a plunger, a ball, two springs, a retaining clip a roller wheel and needle bearings.

Here's what you can try........and it wont cost you any $$$ at all:
Shut the engine off when the tick sound is happening at it's loudest. Next, remove the valve cover. After the valve cover is removed, loosen all the rocker arms to close the valves and to have enough slack so that you can move each rocker off each of thier respective push rods. Next, use your finger and push down on each push rod. Each rod should not move downwards at all. Each one should be rock solid. The one that moves downwards is the lifter that is ticking.

No doubt someone will say, "Just rotate the engine instead of loosening the rocker bolts to close the valves".

Pshh.....Puhleeze, rotate the engine and let the bad lifter pump up with oil and not be able to find anything wrong.

Anyhow, if you do as I outlined, you will have a real good chance of finding the offending lifter.

If you do find a bad lifter, you may as well go ahead and replace them all because if one goes, the rest are soon to follow.

Replacing the lifters will require the removal of the cylinder heads. Not a big job.......can be done in a day.
 

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