Wheel bearing/hub

[badtothe bone]

You can't repack the wheel bearings, because they are a sealed unit.

I would not replace the wheel bearing until it starts to make noise and go bad.

The reason being that the bearings you take off might be better then the ones you put back on.

I did several where I did everything right and one year later they were junk again. It wasn't that I did something wrong, it was just that the replacement bearings were no good.

I have heard just about every known remedies for trying to salvage the wheel bearing and my only advice is not to try it. Some people have said that they pumped grease down the hole - where the sensor goes for the speed sensor reluctor. My advice is not to do it, because the reluctor is supposed to be a sealed unit and not physically part of the bearing itself.

Other people have claimed that they could take one apart, grind it down and press it back together. The problem with that is that there is a grease seal on the back side of the bearing that gets torn out when the bearing goes bad and there is no way to replace it.

I have had some success with a new bearing, if you put a thin coating of orange high temp RTV on the backside of the bearing and clean the axle stub before you put it back together. Making sure to clean thoroughly the bore where the bearing goes through the spindle and put a dab of RTV around the bearing when you put it back in - if you live in a rust belt state.

Even then, there is no guarentee that it will last as long as the origional bearing.

 

[Budreau68]

Ah, thanks. Honestly this is my first 4x4. Had 2x4 till now. Those wheel bearings are the easy, remove, repack, reinstall type. I finally understand what I'm dealing with. Not a bearing but a whole sealed axle unit. Thank you.

So, right now it sounds like tire noise. You guys suggest to let it go until it starts to audibly squeak (rather than drag) before replacement?

I just came over from another, now vacant, yukon forum. This site seems great.

 

[ravingmadman]

I replaced mine when there was play in the wheel. If you have up/down play with the tire off the ground, that's going to mess up more stuff like alignment, your steering members, etc. The bearing assembly is super easy to swap out, and $150 is a good price.

 

[Budreau68]

I have side to side (lock to lock/turning) play in the steering. I replaced the tie-rods. Next will be pitman/idler and bracket.

 

[asley2010]

I just did mine last weekend. This is what worked for my 03 Yukon. I am pretty sure the setup is the same on yours but not entirely sure.

1. unbolt axle bolt in the middle of the rotor - 36mm
2. pulled wheel and saturated EVERY bolt with pb blaster.
3. unbolt caliper bolts, slide off the calipers. hang with wire off of the upper control arm
4. unbolt caliper brackets, remove the rotor and caliper brackets.
5. unbolt the 6 15mm bolts on the axle attached to the front differential and push it in. It drops right down and hangs
6. place the jack under the lower control arm and raise it so its parallel to the ground. from the back side you should be able to wiggle the axle assembly right out, worse case, you may have to unbolt the lower shock bolt and you get more room but I didnt have to.
7. lower control arm, unbolt the 3 bolts on the back side of the spindle(6pnt short socket)that holds the bearing onto the spindle. The top bolt needed a wrench to loosen. I would leave the bolts still threaded in a bit and with the socket still on it, I used a 7lb sledgehammer and hit the bolts from the back side.
8. The bottom 2 bolts will come out but the top bolt wont come out all the way because of the upper balljoint bolt but once the bearing is out, the bolt can stay there it makes it easier to bolt back up.
9. remove bearing, clean it out. put the new bearing back in and start with the top bolt. follow directions in reverse.

So helpful instructions!thank a lot,i'll try with my car this weekend

 

[Bad bow tie]

I replaced mine a couple years ago using Timkin when the ABS light came on and stayed on. Had something to do with the sensor. They are pretty easy to do. Also did it on my dads K2500 Suburban. If my memory serves me correctly you torque the castle nut at like 150 foot pounds? I don't remember.

---------- Post added at 12:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:58 AM ----------

Madman says 200 foot pounds torque in his right up. Sounds about right.