When adding moog coils and spacers

[KonXL]

Sup guys, quick question has anyone experience the rear end axel not sitting straight when adding the longer coils, spacers and shocks to the rear when level/lifting your suv? Read some stuff on here that you may need a panhard bar. Not sure if its recommended or just a personal thing of doing after lifting the rear?

 

[iamdub]

If by "not sitting straight" you mean it's further out on one side than the other, then yes, you need an adjustable Panhard bar. The Panhard is what locates the rear end laterally (side-to-side), and it swings in an arc. So if the truck is lifted or lowered beyond a certain amount, the axle will be off center progressively more with the amount of lift or lowering.

 

[01Konvict]

On a level kit it’s not necessary but on a lift yes

 

[KonXL]

If by "not sitting straight" you mean it's further out on one side than the other, then yes, you need an adjustable Panhard bar. The Panhard is what locates the rear end laterally (side-to-side), and it swings in an arc. So if the truck is lifted or lowered beyond a certain amount, the axle will be off center progressively more with the amount of lift or lowering.

Yes that's what I meant. Do you know if its only going beyond a 2-3" lift on the back?

 

[KonXL]

On a level kit it’s not necessary but on a lift yes

I see, so by lift I'm assuming a lift kit that is 6 inches or more? I should be ok with just the 2-3" lift like the one that everyone does with coils and spacers.

 

[iamdub]

Yes that's what I meant. Do you know if its only going beyond a 2-3" lift on the back?

Technically, it will be off center with anything over stock. Ideally, the Panhard should be parallel to the axle with the vehicle at ride height. As the suspension cycles up and down during normal driving, the axle moves slightly one way or the other but it's very minimal since everything is starting from a "zero point". With lowering or lifting, the axle is located closer to or further away from the frame, putting the Panhard at an angle. This pulls the axle to one side, making it sit off-center at ride height so it's already starting out X amount away from the "zero point". Any lateral movement from this will be more pronounced and noticeable.

So, even though it may not be as noticeably with a lift under 2-3 inches, it's still there. If it's not enough to bother you at a 2-3 inch lift, then ignore it. Personally, I'd get an adjustable Panhard to not only center the axle, but because the stock Panhard is flimsy.

If you want to minimize the lateral movement of the axle as the suspension cycles (keep it moving as straight up and down with as little side movement as possible), then you will have to alter the mounting points of the Panhard so that it's parallel to the axle.

I'm sure this is all beyond what you're concerned with, so just keep it simple and get an adjustable one for the improved looks of a centered axle and improved stability of the stronger link.

 

[01Konvict]

I see, so by lift I'm assuming a lift kit that is 6 inches or more? I should be ok with just the 2-3" lift like the one that everyone does with coils and spacers.

If you did coils it might change 1/4” to passenger side. Add 2” coil spacers it might move 1/2” to the passenger side. I had that combo on my old Yukon and it was barely noticeable that it sat a tad to the passenger side. Both wheels were flush with fenders. If you want to measure it and be picky then you can add a bar but really isn’t needed.

 

[zraffz]

https://m.ebay.com/itm/2000-2006-Ch...:Tahoe&hash=item25c8672afd:g:tHEAAOSwa0VZ8Y~c
It's on sale too

 

[KonXL]

Technically, it will be off center with anything over stock. Ideally, the Panhard should be parallel to the axle with the vehicle at ride height. As the suspension cycles up and down during normal driving, the axle moves slightly one way or the other but it's very minimal since everything is starting from a "zero point". With lowering or lifting, the axle is located closer to or further away from the frame, putting the Panhard at an angle. This pulls the axle to one side, making it sit off-center at ride height so it's already starting out X amount away from the "zero point". Any lateral movement from this will be more pronounced and noticeable.

So, even though it may not be as noticeably with a lift under 2-3 inches, it's still there. If it's not enough to bother you at a 2-3 inch lift, then ignore it. Personally, I'd get an adjustable Panhard to not only center the axle, but because the stock Panhard is flimsy.

If you want to minimize the lateral movement of the axle as the suspension cycles (keep it moving as straight up and down with as little side movement as possible), then you will have to alter the mounting points of the Panhard so that it's parallel to the axle.

I'm sure this is all beyond what you're concerned with, so just keep it simple and get an adjustable one for the improved looks of a centered axle and improved stability of the stronger link.

Thanks brother I appreciate it! I think for now I'll see how it looks and rides then go from there.

 

[KonXL]

If you did coils it might change 1/4” to passenger side. Add 2” coil spacers it might move 1/2” to the passenger side. I had that combo on my old Yukon and it was barely noticeable that it sat a tad to the passenger side. Both wheels were flush with fenders. If you want to measure it and be picky then you can add a bar but really isn’t needed.

Got it! I think I may go with 1.5 spacers but I hear sometimes it isn't necessary cause the coils give you the right amount of height, do you know if this is true.?

My autolevel gave out so I'm unsure if I want to go get standard stock height shocks or do the level/lift route