whistle in sound sytem?

[03tahoess]

i had the same problem, my problem was this piece that transfers steering wheel button info to the new head unit(avic z1). The installer new right away what it was.

 

[thehoe92]

forgot about the high power sources
..my bad


the other 2 are new to me so I just learned something new today

I am going to just rewire everything and do it right and hopefully it will go away if not check out the Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

I have read SOOO many great reviews on it taking away all types of noise, not just alternator whine but static and other noise

 

[hassoun]

yeh in most cases its signal wires too close to power wires. thats why u run ur signal wires under passenger side and power under driver. or vice versa.

 

[blackcoffee]

I was gonna say mess around with the amp. But there is no amp. That sucks. I use to love those bose speakers I remember back in the day my dad had a silverado 2500 with the nice bose speakers.

 

[Eagle]

I'm MECP certified, so I can tell you for certain that you are partially right. Ground noise accounts for 1/4 of the possibilities, but you also have to consider the possibility of induction. If there are signal wires near any source of high power, they will pick it up and it will be processed as signal. If the battery is going bad it won't be able to filter the ripple and that will also cause it. Lastly, if the alternator's rectifier is going bad it will cause issues as well. so check all 4! Gound is deffinitely a good place to start, but a battery & Alternator check is easier.......and free, so why not start there?

Because it isn't free... only a voltage check of the alternator is free, not checking it with an oscilloscope, which is how you find a bad leg on the rectifier. Most parts stores can not properly use their own test equipment to check a battery, watch em next time, they set the battery to 400CCA all the time so they'll "pass", even with 2 failing cells.

KEy here is aftermarket head, multiple grounds (antenna, head unit, possibly illumination.)

The most FREQUENT issue is an insufficiently sized negative or a 'ground' differential between the head and the amp (it does have an amp after all),

I'd try running a new 16ga ground from the head negative to the underconsole amp mounting plate.

INduction is possible but not very likely on a head only install.


AS mentioned above if they used a SWI-__ translator and tied it into a different circuit for power, that could also cause a ground loop.

 

[chip]

forgot about the high power sources
..my bad


the other 2 are new to me so I just learned something new today

I am going to just rewire everything and do it right and hopefully it will go away if not check out the Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

I have read SOOO many great reviews on it taking away all types of noise, not just alternator whine but static and other noise

Rockford Fosgate is one of my favorite companies! Everything they make is super high quality combined with sensible simplicity. Very Clen, Very NIce, and pretty well priced (considering). I Highly Reccomend them for anything!

Because it isn't free... only a voltage check of the alternator is free, not checking it with an oscilloscope, which is how you find a bad leg on the rectifier. Most parts stores can not properly use their own test equipment to check a battery, watch em next time, they set the battery to 400CCA all the time so they'll "pass", even with 2 failing cells.

Boy, isn't that the truth?!?!??!?!?!? Batteries Plus is usually pretty good at checking the entire charging system though. Don't go to a parts store!
Also, the more I hear about this "steering wheel audio control" issue, the more I'd like to point out that possibility!! It seems to be a well know issue, so check that out as well!

 

[Eagle]

Never heard of batteries plus...

 

[chip]

Cool Spot! Worth looking into!

 

[Eagle]

Not a very common chain are they?

I'll have to check if the one here can do automotive stuff.

 

[chip]

They're relatively new (10 years or so)