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thumper_ehhhhh

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They do have a dye they can put in to find the leak. I would sudjest taking it to somebody else and have them do a dye test to find the leak. Then you can save money by replacing only whats needed.
 

the 18th letter

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I'm hoping mines is just a leak as well, can't afford a compressor right about now. I had radiator and hose problems last summer so I don't know if that was the problem or not. Should be finding out soon.
 

dave76

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I know it's an old thread but summer is coming, so I'll revive it. I'm an HVAC tech by trade, so I can help out. Most of these trucks leak in the rear A/C lines going to the rear evaperator. Their located under the truck, passenger side frame rails, and get killed all winter long from salt which rots aluminum. My pops 96 Burb had leaks in his, GM wants like $300 for new lines and aftermarket companys sell rubber replacment hoses for $289 on egay, so I replaced the rotted portions with copper and compression fittings, and they hold well. Ebay also has compressors and receivers for $170 new, thats a freakin steal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

You can get away with just charging it, but it won't be perfect, pulling a vacuum with a vacumm pump is the way to go, plus with the vacumm you can check leaks, if you lose vacuum, you still have a leak. However a vacumm pumps sells for $300+. So if you don't disconnect the system and allow moisture in you'll be OK to just charge it.
 
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dave76

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does any of that stop leak stuff work?

Don't know as I've never used it. Mabe a really slow leak, like a once a year recharge, but a weekly or monthly recharge is a big leak and needs to be repaired, as it's a waste of money and refrigerent.
 

blizz

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so the leak i have now needs to be refilled in about 48 hours. i'm thinking of doing the dye test so i can see where it's leaking from. will that do me any good? are any leaks repairable by do it yourselfers?
 

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