Window rollup - should I replace the motor?

[tRidiot]

So my pass window has been a PITA for years. It binds up and stops, especially when it's cold out, or even 'cooler'.

So I have a window rollup module on my alarm which allows me to just 'tap' it to roll completely up or down and not have to hold the switch. The problem is, it doesn't allow me hold it down to keep overriding the automatic shutoff when it 'binds'. So I have to keep tapping it to make it go up a half-inch at a time if it's cold out. In fact, last time I checked it, it took me 47 tries to get the pass window to roll up all the way.

Also, the driver's side started giving me similar problems in the cold, though to lesser degree.

So I'm putting in a new motor and the trans is rebuilt, too. I'd like to fix these windows while I'm at it. I did some research on the regulator, thinking this was what I need, but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't just pull the door apart - which is a major undertaking in my truck, the doors have been sealed and deadened heavily for audio stuff - and replace the motor and spray some silicone in the tracks and cables and such. I THINK the motor should be easy to replace, whereas the regular might be more complicated.

What do you think? It seems to me it is most likely the tracks and cables have a spot that is binding and the motor has gotten weaker over the years, so changing the motor and lubricating the heck out of the other parts might make a difference.

Some of the parts on RockAuto say they're actually built to higher standards and upgraded parts as compared to the OE stuff. Can anyone vouch for this or should I just go back with OE?

TL;DR
Rear windows are great. Front pass has always been a problem for 10y since I got this truck and the last couple years has gotten worse. Driver's front is now getting slightly worse.

 

[drakon543]

all aftermarket stuff will generally say meets or exceeds oe. generally for what your saying the window is doing i just apply some grease to the tracks and the problem is fixed. only other thing ive had to replace is the side felt sliders. after a period of time the felt like material will rub away leaving just rubber which catches on the glass. rarely have i ever had to actually replace a motor.

 

[tRidiot]

The side felt sliders...

I wonder if that would make things better. $32 for one of those.... $80 for a reg.... $40 for a motor (but $80 for the rear????)....

 

[adventurenali92]

You COULD just replace the motor, and not the regulator. And then the regulator could fail.... if tearing apart your doors is a major pain you may as well only have to do it once. Replace the regulator felt and motor while you’ve got it all apart, and just call it a a day and not have to tear into it more than once.

 

[91RS]

Some of the parts on RockAuto say they're actually built to higher standards and upgraded parts as compared to the OE stuff. Can anyone vouch for this or should I just go back with OE?.

all aftermarket stuff will generally say meets or exceeds oe.

No, it isn't. Have you actually compared aftermarket stuff to new OE? The aftermarket parts are all visually inferior quality and if you use it long term they wear out at least 2x as fast (especially steering and suspension parts). You're not saving any money. I've seen the aftermarket regulators and they're horrible quality, the aftermarket motors don't even have the right connector on them so they have a jumper harness. Buy the OE regulator and motor (last I checked the motor comes with the new OE regulator) and be done. I've seen plenty of these trucks with this issue over the years and new regulators and motors fixed every one of them. The motor gets weak and the regulator cables stretch and the rollers get dirty from 20 years of dirt in the doors.

 

[drakon543]

No, it isn't. Have you actually compared aftermarket stuff to new OE? The aftermarket parts are all visually inferior quality and if you use it long term they wear out at least 2x as fast (especially steering and suspension parts). You're not saving any money. I've seen the aftermarket regulators and they're horrible quality, the aftermarket motors don't even have the right connector on them so they have a jumper harness. Buy the OE regulator and motor (last I checked the motor comes with the new OE regulator) and be done. I've seen plenty of these trucks with this issue over the years and new regulators and motors fixed every one of them. The motor gets weak and the regulator cables stretch and the rollers get dirty from 20 years of dirt in the doors.

that was my point i was just stating they all claim they are as good or better. i should have filled the rest of that in.

 

[Bill 1960]

In mine the front track the glass slides in is damaged and bent from some incident. Found some broken glass inside the door when I opened it up. Not saying that’s your problem, but if it’s your first time getting behind the sound insulation you may find anything.

My window is functional but slower than normal. One of these days I’ll have to open it up again and when I do I’ll be prepared to replace the tracks.

I’ve developed the habit of sticking with OEM parts for anything important. Aftermarket is mostly inferior.

 

[tRidiot]

In mine the front track the glass slides in is damaged and bent from some incident. Found some broken glass inside the door when I opened it up. Not saying that’s your problem, but if it’s your first time getting behind the sound insulation you may find anything.

My window is functional but slower than normal. One of these days I’ll have to open it up again and when I do I’ll be prepared to replace the tracks.

I’ve developed the habit of sticking with OEM parts for anything important. Aftermarket is mostly inferior.

No, my doors have been worked on a number of times. I have a major stereo system and we've rebuilt the doors at least 4 times that I know of - from in-door fiberglass pods to now having dual 6.5" midbasses, sealed up door holes with sound deadener sandwiched in aluminum sheeting and a large blocking mat of foam and sound barrier. I am pretty sure during all this we did the silicone spray on things to help, and it did for a while, but never went away.

I think it's time to replace the components - along with sooooo many other things on this 18 year-old truck. <sigh>

Once I'm done with the motor/trans swap, I need a new gauge cluster, these window fixes, new carpet, new seat foam, leather and controls, A/C blend door fixes, minor body work, new paint, brake upgrade with brake lines...

Sheisse, what a list.

 

[S33k3r]

No, my doors have been worked on a number of times. I have a major stereo system and we've rebuilt the doors at least 4 times that I know of - from in-door fiberglass pods to now having dual 6.5" midbasses, sealed up door holes with sound deadener sandwiched in aluminum sheeting and a large blocking mat of foam and sound barrier. I am pretty sure during all this we did the silicone spray on things to help, and it did for a while, but never went away.

I think it's time to replace the components - along with sooooo many other things on this 18 year-old truck. <sigh>

Once I'm done with the motor/trans swap, I need a new gauge cluster, these window fixes, new carpet, new seat foam, leather and controls, A/C blend door fixes, minor body work, new paint, brake upgrade with brake lines...

Sheisse, what a list.

Make a build post!

(I also suggest listing information about your ride in your signature -- not a requirement, but it will benefit you later I am sure)

 

[Joel Ragan Young]

Other than binding in the tracks and the other possibilities mentioned, I improved functionality by cleaning the contacts in the actual window switches in the driver's door pod. The interior panel must be removed in order to access all of the screws holding the switch pod in the door panel in most years, but the pod is easy to open and clean under the rubber membrane and circuit board. All the gunk and build up in the contact pads had made my passenger windows operation intermittent, but the results were spectacular.