Won't start after a dead battery

[doncaruana]

So I have a parasitic draw on my '97 Tahoe that I haven't gotten around to finding. I've just been going out and starting my truck every few days and letting it run a bit or even taking a short trip. It's still died on me a few times anyway, but never an issue to either put jumper cables or a portable starter on it.

This time, I let it go a little longer. Dead as a doornail of course. So I put jumper cables on it and let it run a bit. Here's where it gets weird...the starter will turn, but the engine will not turn over. As a matter of fact, it only even makes the attempt *after* I quit trying to start it. As I turn the key back to the off position I'll get a little chug from the engine. I've never seen anything like this before and that strange attempt at the end is really throwing me.

Is this because the battery is just too far gone? Or not charged up enough (I had the jumper cables to another car for over a half hour). Or did my problem somehow coincidentally morph into a different one? And what should I do to get it running again?

 

[Doubeleive]

I would start by disconnecting the battery, fully charge it and then hook it back up and try again, if you know it will be sitting a few days then just take the positive battery cable off so it doesn't kill the battery the battery wont die from just sitting disconnected unless it sits for a really long time

 

[PG01]

I would start by disconnecting the battery, fully charge it and then hook it back up and try again, if you know it will be sitting a few days then just take the positive battery cable off so it doesn't kill the battery the battery wont die from just sitting disconnected unless it sits for a really long time

This

 

[OR VietVet]

Yes, battery problems fixed first and then go from there. Low voltage can turn a starter drive gear but may not have enough to even engage the flywheel. Plus, when you let go of the key I am not sure about this "chug" thing. Are you saying that when you tried the key you turned to the start position and could only hear the started drive gear but the engine itself was not spinning AT ALL? The fan belts did not move and the engine never "cranked" over? I need more detail in your description. If the engine is spinning, slow or normal speed, then there is a whole other set of problems. Please be specific. Thanks.

By the way, how old is the battery?

 

[doncaruana]

Battery was 4 years old (Autozone Duralast Gold) so I went ahead and replaced it. The motor was turning, ie the fan belts were moving, but it just would not finish firing up. It would do that sputter right at the end though, so I thought it might be a gas issue.

Negative battery terminal looked pretty rough, so I figured a cheap replacement from autozone might help. It didn't and their bolts are too small anyway. So I bought some Dorman bolts for both negative and positive (60310 positive, 60307 negative, $8.69 total from Amazon). Was ready to throw in the towel and have it towed to a local guy and figured I might as well replace those battery terminal bolts. And it fired right up!!!

Now, here's some more of this story...
I figured while it was down, I might as well test for that draw. Hooked up the meter - got about 38ma for a few seconds, then down to 26 or so for a second. Then nothing. Did this multiple times, same result. So that was a bust.

But here's what I'm wondering...is it possible that the connection was sporadic enough that it was constantly going through that cycle (or even more) while it was sitting idle? The proof in the pudding will be how it responds the next time I let it sit for a few days.

Autozone gave me some battery terminal grease with the battery, that I'll have to pop it open and put on now.

 

[Doubeleive]

Battery was 4 years old (Autozone Duralast Gold) so I went ahead and replaced it. The motor was turning, ie the fan belts were moving, but it just would not finish firing up. It would do that sputter right at the end though, so I thought it might be a gas issue.

Negative battery terminal looked pretty rough, so I figured a cheap replacement from autozone might help. It didn't and their bolts are too small anyway. So I bought some Dorman bolts for both negative and positive (60310 positive, 60307 negative, $8.69 total from Amazon). Was ready to throw in the towel and have it towed to a local guy and figured I might as well replace those battery terminal bolts. And it fired right up!!!

Now, here's some more of this story...
I figured while it was down, I might as well test for that draw. Hooked up the meter - got about 38ma for a few seconds, then down to 26 or so for a second. Then nothing. Did this multiple times, same result. So that was a bust.

But here's what I'm wondering...is it possible that the connection was sporadic enough that it was constantly going through that cycle (or even more) while it was sitting idle? The proof in the pudding will be how it responds the next time I let it sit for a few days.

Autozone gave me some battery terminal grease with the battery, that I'll have to pop it open and put on now.

these vehicles just don't like power problems it can make them do all kinds of weird stuff

 

[Santanjl]

Hi Don,
Did you ever get this problem resolved? I’m having the same exact issue. Vehicle doesnt crank over after a dead battery fix.

 

[doncaruana]

Hi Don,
Did you ever get this problem resolved? I’m having the same exact issue. Vehicle doesnt crank over after a dead battery fix.

The starting problem resolved with replacing the battery terminal bolts (see 3 posts up). I can't remember the draw though.

 

[Eman85]

Hi Don,
Did you ever get this problem resolved? I’m having the same exact issue. Vehicle doesnt crank over after a dead battery fix.

First let's get the definitions right. Crank over usually means the starter is not turning the engine. You say after a dead battery "fix" which could mean you fixed the reason for the dead battery or replaced a dead battery.

 

[Eman85]

Battery was 4 years old (Autozone Duralast Gold) so I went ahead and replaced it. The motor was turning, ie the fan belts were moving, but it just would not finish firing up. It would do that sputter right at the end though, so I thought it might be a gas issue.

Negative battery terminal looked pretty rough, so I figured a cheap replacement from autozone might help. It didn't and their bolts are too small anyway. So I bought some Dorman bolts for both negative and positive (60310 positive, 60307 negative, $8.69 total from Amazon). Was ready to throw in the towel and have it towed to a local guy and figured I might as well replace those battery terminal bolts. And it fired right up!!!

Now, here's some more of this story...
I figured while it was down, I might as well test for that draw. Hooked up the meter - got about 38ma for a few seconds, then down to 26 or so for a second. Then nothing. Did this multiple times, same result. So that was a bust.

But here's what I'm wondering...is it possible that the connection was sporadic enough that it was constantly going through that cycle (or even more) while it was sitting idle? The proof in the pudding will be how it responds the next time I let it sit for a few days.

Autozone gave me some battery terminal grease with the battery, that I'll have to pop it open and put on now.

Just for clarification, the parasitic draw test done was not correctly done. The only proper way to do a parasitic draw test is using a bridge, a battery disconnect switch like the ones with the big green knob. You put that in the negative cable and start and run the vehicle. You shut the vehicle off and have you amp meter connected across the bridge. Then you open the bridge to allow current to flow through the amp meter while you monitor it. You will be able to see the draw drop as things power down.