Yukon Denali TCC slips while locked

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Hackowell

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I built this 4l65e myself after taking it to the same guy 3 times within 1600 miles and finding out I got nothing I payed for. I made him give me a Beast sunshell, a piston kit,new 13v pump, new harness, new BW sprag, and a 2002 core, bit the bullet and learned to do it myself. I put a transgo shift kit in it, along with Alto frictions, I checked the input drum for leakage and it was fine, I put new steels in it, an overhaul kit from transtar, a .500 boost valve, new bushings, Wix Filter, new aluminum accumulators, and some other new stuff like solenoids, etc. I got a reman Trailblazer stall VJCX I think from transmission crafters. It has 2 coolers, a tube and fin and a bar/plate with 2 350 cfm fans on it(bypassed radiator).

For about 4 months it worked great, except shift points but about 4 months later it started to slip the TCC once above 170 degrees in D or OD when locked at part throttle under a load (like right before it tries to unlock). If I drive it easy it doesnt slip except on steep inclines but who should have to baby around losing speed on hills. I bought HPtuners and changed the shift points and TCC lock/unlock mph. I even bumped up the pressure as I have been told tha would cause this. Everyone said it was slipping 3/4 but its been a year and I know it isnt because it pulls fine unlocked too the floor. The TCC is the problem, in some way or another. I even manually lock it in HP tuners while driving and it slips it. I have the pwm delete from the shift kit but also set HPtuners at 100max 90 min.

This week I put in a new pwm lockup solenoid(gray connector) and a new TC snout solenoid because someone said it might be cracked and thats why it only slips when hot. when it is below 170 degrees it does NOT slip when locked. Also temp drops once i idle around town but on the highway it creeps to 170-190 in 100 degree weather and the hotter it gets the worse. The temps coming off the ooutlet side of cooler are 120 degrees idling on a hot 100 degree day, so I assume the cooler is working but it seems to get hottest when on the highway which doesnt make sense to me for a 2750 stall. Around town its 150 degrees driving it spirited with a 6000 pound truck.

Any suggestions?

When I lock the converter manually when idling with HPtuners it puts heavy load on the truck but doesnt stall it out completely, I didnt try the ball bearing test but I assume thats for people without a way to test it through the computer and dont expect different results. Also I could not blow through the old TCC snout solenoid(black) and I can blow through the new one(white), not sure why they are different it acts the same. Doesnt the cooler lube fluid have something to do with this circuit?
 
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swathdiver

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I got a reman Trailblazer stall VJCX I think from transmission crafters. It has 2 coolers, a tube and fin and a bar/plate with 2 350 cfm fans on it(bypassed radiator).

How many rpms is it slipping?

Have you tried just using one cooler and have you had the lines/cooler pressure tested to see if it is within spec?

I think something is just plain wrong internally with the torque converter.

This fellows temps are similar:

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resourc...-4l60-e-300mm-converter-4-2l-engine-code-vjcx

My closing thought is that you have a lot of converter, at least a lot more than stock, nearly 1000 rpms higher right? Such a difference from the original is going to slip from my outdated experience and the lockup will not hold up over time.
 
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Hackowell

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That fellows temps and problems are similar because that is me, the video is about a year old. Reman converter from Transmission Crafters(updated Spec). I never pulled anything with this, it shouldnt matter if the stall is higher when locked, right? Trailblazers were never designed to pull a trailer? People are drag racing at the strip with this same converter locked @WOT, and they are going for years. How many rpms? Generally slipping 200-300 because im already at 2200 rpm or so cruising highway speeds, this converter has the carbon woven lockup so I understand it is designed to slip but it my case it has been turned off in the valvebody and the tune. The slipping is not a good thing for me, and I realize its been going for a year like this but I have to baby it up hills and I know it isnt supposed to slip like this.
 
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swathdiver

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That fellows temps and problems are similar because that is me, the video is about a year old. Reman converter from Transmission Crafters(updated Spec). I never pulled anything with this, it shouldnt matter if the stall is higher when locked, right? Trailblazers were never designed to pull a trailer? People are drag racing at the strip with this same converter locked @WOT, and they are going for years. How many rpms? Generally slipping 200-300 because im already at 2200 rpm or so cruising highway speeds, this converter has the carbon woven lockup so I understand it is designed to slip but it my case it has been turned off in the valvebody and the tune. The slipping is not a good thing for me, and I realize its been going for a year like this but I have to baby it up hills and I know it isnt supposed to slip like this.

That's funny! Well, like I said, my experience is old and probably outdated. I used to drag race with the 200R4 transmission and when we locked up the clutch at WOT, it soon failed after a few thousand miles. The higher the stall speed, the quicker they broke!
 
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Hackowell

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Yeah I get what you mean, I wouldnt do it behind a stock 4l60e either. The newer converters have a woven carbon lining made for constant slip BUT mine isnt slipping as intended by GM pwm % because its mechanically disabled to On/OFF and removed in the Tune. I dont lock mine at WOT but many guys racing do, usually with a triple disc converter, this is a single. I know guys towing with these in stock conditions so mine should work unless the converter is bad or something in the signal circuit is losing pressure when hot. Was hoping a builder would chime in. Dana from PBA knows these trannsy inside out over at LS1 but they dont approve posts if you are under a ceratain count so it takes weeks before someone ever posts it. I dont want to drop the tranny if I am overlooking something simple, I even bumped up the line pressure across the board in HPtuners and that made 0 difference, it definitly is temp related and I also disabled misfire detection to see if that was it. Im fairly certain if I lock it manually while idling it should stall the engine out, it loads it up pretty good but doesnt shut it off. -out of options-
 

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