375rwhp is the goal

[TSFR]

what have you done so far to get those kind of numbers... all ive done is a CAI, a cat back system, and EFI Live tune

Everything is in my sig....plus a spectra intake from Advance Auto because I had a coupon

a 6.0 (LQ4) from a 2005 Silverado 1500HD
06 Trailblazer SS: Intake, 90mm Throttlebody, Cam and rocker springs
x-link to make the connection to the TBSS TB
6.0 fuel rail with 5.3 flex fuel injectors
Cal-Speed LT 1 7/8 custom headers
Nelson Performance Tune
stock 5.3 wiring harness

I think thats about it, it already came stock with electric fans.

 

[2005SnowKon]

So you go that much power by changing over to a 6.0. I'm thinking of a cam and valve train swap with a good set of headers for my 2005 5.3 but no sure what I want or even need


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[hoe]

Everything is in my sig....plus a spectra intake from Advance Auto because I had a coupon

a 6.0 (LQ4) from a 2005 Silverado 1500HD
06 Trailblazer SS: Intake, 90mm Throttlebody, Cam and rocker springs
x-link to make the connection to the TBSS TB
6.0 fuel rail with 5.3 flex fuel injectors
Cal-Speed LT 1 7/8 custom headers
Nelson Performance Tune
stock 5.3 wiring harness

I think thats about it, it already came stock with electric fans.

Not to shabby, but not 375 rwhp from a NA/FI 5.3 like original plan, the 6.0 was mucho needed. The TB and headers will help the it breathe well. Its extremely hard to make high NA power and still have something streetable, not built for a straight line 5-8K rpm.

My NA combo in my 01 Tahoe consist of a: 6.0 ** lq9=10:1, LPP longtubes 1 3/4 primaries, 3" collectors, 3" ORY catless, 4" magnaflow muffler dumped, Airaid-intake, 4000 rpm 9.5" billet stall converter, 4.88 rear gear ratio with LSD, PCM4less street-tune.

The plans are to milled L92 head swap, Holley intake manifold, 102mm TB, 230/232 112 lsa cam. Basically the entire top end package, and Im expecting almost 100hp added. realasitcally like 70-90hp. Then I will add a pro charger..

 

[JennaBear]

Remember those are Dyno Jet numbers guys, which have an inflation factor of 20% due to the correction of inertia dynos.

Edit: street numbers would be 265HP and 284TQ, still not shabby for a big ol Tahoe!

 

[TSFR]

Not to shabby, but not 375 rwhp from a NA/FI 5.3 like original plan, the 6.0 was mucho needed. The TB and headers will help the it breathe well. Its extremely hard to make high NA power and still have something streetable, not built for a straight line 5-8K rpm.

My NA combo in my 01 Tahoe consist of a: 6.0 ** lq9=10:1, LPP longtubes 1 3/4 primaries, 3" collectors, 3" ORY catless, 4" magnaflow muffler dumped, Airaid-intake, 4000 rpm 9.5" billet stall converter, 4.88 rear gear ratio with LSD, PCM4less street-tune.

The plans are to milled L92 head swap, Holley intake manifold, 102mm TB, 230/232 112 lsa cam. Basically the entire top end package, and Im expecting almost 100hp added. realasitcally like 70-90hp. Then I will add a pro charger..

TRUE DAT! 375rwhp from the 5.3 was getting expensive quick, so far I have right at $2400 in this build ($1000 for the motor, $450 headers, $220 for TBSS stuff, $250 x-link, $300 Tunes, $180 for plugs, wires, oil, coolant etc etc) and I'm still going to sell my stock 5.3 to recoup a small part of that. Either way, I'm pretty stoked with the 331HP, figure its a 100HP DynoJet Dyno ( ) increase and at least that much more in TQ. If I do any further upgrades, it will be a much better platform to start from.

Remember those are Dyno Jet numbers guys, which have an inflation factor of 20% due to the correction of inertia dynos.

Edit: street numbers would be 265HP and 284TQ, still not shabby for a big ol Tahoe!

Hi Jenna,
Would you please explain this to me? Its seams like there are 1098274358 different schools of thought when it comes to dyno #'s and how they are generated.

Is the correction your talking about different from SAE correction or just the difference in how all DynoJet Dyno's generate #'s? When I asked they looked at the bottom and said that the computer said correction wasnt needed because of the humidy and temp. It coulda been a load of shit for all I know. I'm curious now....

So, a stock 5.3 Tahoe with the advertized 285HP at the crank would be putting down 228RWHP on a Dyno Jet (in theory) by figuring 20% loss through the drivetrain. But because of the way DynoJet generates the numbers, the actual reading needs another 20% taken off the 228 meaning the actual stock 5.3 is putting 182RWHP? Is that what they mean by BHP?

Guess I didnt know that DynoJet as a whole skewed the numbers that much.

 

[JennaBear]

What I am referring to is commonly known as the DynoJet factor. It is the way that the software corrects the numbers. DynoJets work off of pulls, rather than a steady increase of RPMs (which is what load bearing dynos do). The load bearing dynos are more realistic of how a car reacts on the road, we will only tune on a load bearing dyno for this very reason.

As for the factory numbers, they are done with an engine dyno (as they are at the crank) so these numbers are true numbers. You can decrease the strain from the drive train which is typically 15-20%.

DynoJets are also cheaper to buy, so most shops will have these (plus customers like to see higher numbers).

If you want to know more on Dynos, here is a good read:

DynoJet Factor

 

[jdpber]

So what your saying is he needs to add yellow spark plug wires will make up the dyno loss.

 

[05Yukon23]

So what your saying is he needs to add yellow spark plug wires will make up the dyno loss.

That or put on a "performance brand" decal. It can be placed pretty much anywhere.

 

[jdpber]

No man has to be a product decal for every part you have and many you don't on angle running down passenger side windshield. That adds instant 50rwhp

 

[TSFR]

What I am referring to is commonly known as the DynoJet factor. It is the way that the software corrects the numbers. DynoJets work off of pulls, rather than a steady increase of RPMs (which is what load bearing dynos do). The load bearing dynos are more realistic of how a car reacts on the road, we will only tune on a load bearing dyno for this very reason.

As for the factory numbers, they are done with an engine dyno (as they are at the crank) so these numbers are true numbers. You can decrease the strain from the drive train which is typically 15-20%.

DynoJets are also cheaper to buy, so most shops will have these (plus customers like to see higher numbers).

If you want to know more on Dynos, here is a good read:

DynoJet Factor

Interesting, so I have 2 questions then:
1) What kind of dyno do you recommend using? You'll have to forgive my lack of blindly following information as I really try to see things for myself.

2) Is a 100HP increase on a dynojet a 100HP increase? Previous dyno of 227HP and now 331HP....is it still a 100HP increase or is that skewed too?

I'm going to track down your recommended dyno and see whats up.

To everyone else: Please send me all the go fast stickers you can spare....about 2456HP worth so I can beat funny cars. MAYBE a cool Garrett AND Vortec sticker....and just to be safe, if anyone has an extra air spinner....well that should push me over the edge

AND I NEED POWER CHIPS MAN!!