Help! 02 Tahoe no crank no start after engine warms up past 160 degrees

[TheRealEricG]

My 2002 Tahoe starts fine when it’s cool. I can turn it off and start it repeatedly before it gets to roughly 160 degrees. As soon as it heats up to 160 or more and I turn it off it no crank no starts. It starts again right after the engine cools down below 160 if I let it warm up idling. If I drive it and warm up all the way sometimes it starts after it cools down and sometimes it won’t start for hours or days. I replaced the starter, battery, negative battery cable and ignition switch. I cleaned most of the grounds and tried to replace the ground strap but I can’t get to the bolt on the back of the block. Anybody else have this issue? And does anybody know an easy way to get to the ground strap bolt on the back of the block?

 

[OR VietVet]

More Information for GM GENUINE 12668713

Is this heat shield still there for the protection of the starter motor? If not, it should be.

Is there an exhaust leak above the starter?

 

[strutaeng]

Yeah, probably the starter (or solenoid) getting warm and failing to re-start. Sometimes they start sticking under certain conditions.

Go down there and check that you have power at the solenoid with a test light. Have a helper cranking. Check for ground and constant 12V+ since you are there as a sanity check.

 

[mattbta]

Every crank no start thread I have to ask if the camshaft position sensor has been replaced recently? Non GM sensors do some weird stuff with startup.

 

[Doubeleive]

My 2002 Tahoe starts fine when it’s cool. I can turn it off and start it repeatedly before it gets to roughly 160 degrees. As soon as it heats up to 160 or more and I turn it off it no crank no starts. It starts again right after the engine cools down below 160 if I let it warm up idling. If I drive it and warm up all the way sometimes it starts after it cools down and sometimes it won’t start for hours or days. I replaced the starter, battery, negative battery cable and ignition switch. I cleaned most of the grounds and tried to replace the ground strap but I can’t get to the bolt on the back of the block. Anybody else have this issue? And does anybody know an easy way to get to the ground strap bolt on the back of the block?

when it gets to the temp of no start simply try jumping the starter relay in the fuse box, that will rule the starter in or out. if the starter works then try swapping relays and go from there.
this video is for a 18 but yours will have same type of relay just in a different location.
the video explains some basics for testing the starter and determining if it is in fact the starter or not
for instance if there is no trigger power to the relay then it's something else causing the problem, ignition, ecm, etc

 

[TheRealEricG]

when it gets to the temp of no start simply try jumping the starter relay in the fuse box, that will rule the starter in or out. if the starter works then try swapping relays and go from there.
this video is for a 18 but yours will have same type of relay just in a different location.
the video explains some basics for testing the starter and determining if it is in fact the starter or not
for instance if there is no trigger power to the relay then it's something else causing the problem, ignition, ecm, etc

Thanks for the response. I really appreciate it. I waited until it was warm and doing no crank no start and jumped the fuse and the starter cranked but wouldn’t start. I swapped the relay and it still wouldn’t crank. I already replaced the ignition switch so that leaves the ecm? What else would be the culprit? Is there a way to test the ecm without sending it to someone?

 

[Doubeleive]

@rockola1971 any idea's?
sounds like something is getting heat soaked
since it only happens when it is expanded (hot) then works again once it has cooled and shrunk

I would maybe try cleaning up the pcm harness connection, check the fuse box. just for starters
check for corrosion or water instrusion

 

[rockola1971]

No crank, no start is not likely a PCM issue unless there is green/blue crustys growing on the terminal connnectors at the PCM. Wondering what the status is of the Security light on the dash after ingnition switch is let go from crank to run after about 15 secs or so. Is it flashing on the cluster?

Need to verify the 12v crank signal is on the small terminal of the starter solenoid while someone is in the vehicle trying to crank engine to see which way to go with this. I would pull large 12v battery wire from starter solenoid (dont forget to pull it at the battery unless you want to see what home made arc welder looks like) and clean with a wire brush the terminal on the wire and on the solenoid. Do the same with the small 12v control wire at the solenoid as well. Check negative wire at engine/frame and clean with a wire brush too.

I see the OP replaced the ignition switch. Did he do the relearn procedure for the security?