New member with 2014 SSV and a few questions

[ChevySSR]

Hello everybody
Just bought myself 2014 SSV with 103k and I'm thrilled to join the community.
I wanted one for a long time and finally bought it. I am in Chicago so the unit is a bit rusty crusty, but good enough for Chicago.

I have a few questions I need help with:
1. Is there a method to fully recline the front seat?
2. How can I remove the headrests from both the front and back seats?
3. the oil they used in the SSV for the last 3 oil changes was 15w40, should I continue with 15w40 or switch back to 5w30?
4. The horn isn't working. Is this common, and how can I fix it?

thank you for your help!

 

[89Suburban]

15W40 wow.

In the plastic caps under the headrests there is a small hole in the side. Use a paper clip to stick in there and release the lock and it should slide right out while also holding the little trigger on the opposing cap.

Good luck with her and welcome!

 

[PursuitOKC]

Welcome Brother!

Likely, the cause of the horn not working is the fact that most PPV/SSV's are ordered from the factory with OEM modifications that allow for hooking up certain after-market emergency vehicle functions. As in your case, I would bet $ the cause is an unplugged OEM horn-ring harness. I will look for my diagrams and send something shortly on what to look for in order to restore functionality to your OEM horn.

 

[Sparksalot]

Hello everybody
Just bought myself 2014 SSV with 103k and I'm thrilled to join the community.
I wanted one for a long time and finally bought it. I am in Chicago so the unit is a bit rusty crusty, but good enough for Chicago.

I have a few questions I need help with:
1. Is there a method to fully recline the front seat?
2. How can I remove the headrests from both the front and back seats?
3. the oil they used in the SSV for the last 3 oil changes was 15w40, should I continue with 15w40 or switch back to 5w30?
4. The horn isn't working. Is this common, and how can I fix it?

thank you for your help!

For the horn, look under the center part of the dash, over the hump. You will likely find two ends of a light brown wire that are unplugged. That is the “horn ring”. Plug them back together and the horn ought to work.

 

[Marky Dissod]

3. the oil they used in the '14 SSV for the last 3 oil changes was 15w40.
Should I continue with 15w40 or switch back to 5w30?

My 'urge' would be to switch (back) to 0W30 or 5W30.
However, fully synthetic (Group IV or Group V) OW40 or 5W40 oils such as
Mobil1 Extended Performance
Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic (made from natural gas)
Quaker State Full Synthetic
Valvoline Extended Protection Premium Full Synthetic
should improve protection at cold startup.

 

[ChevySSR]

15W40 wow.

In the plastic caps under the headrests there is a small hole in the side. Use a paper clip to stick in there and release the lock and it should slide right out while also holding the little trigger on the opposing cap.

Good luck with her and welcome!

yep, 15w40 is pretty heavy diesel oil, I'm thinking I should give 5w30 a try and see what sort of oil consumption I will experience.
thank you for the headrests tip, will try it out tomorrow.

thank you!

 

[ChevySSR]

Welcome Brother!

Likely, the cause of the horn not working is the fact that most PPV/SSV's are ordered from the factory with OEM modifications that allow for hooking up certain after-market emergency vehicle functions. As in your case, I would bet $ the cause is an unplugged OEM horn-ring harness. I will look for my diagrams and send something shortly on what to look for in order to restore functionality to your OEM horn.

thank you much appreciated.

 

[ChevySSR]

For the horn, look under the center part of the dash, over the hump. You will likely find two ends of a light brown wire that are unplugged. That is the “horn ring”. Plug them back together and the horn ought to work.

thank you for the guidance, I have a quote a number of cut wires in the hump, will look for two brown ones tomorrow morning and report back.

 

[ChevySSR]

My 'urge' would be to switch (back) to 0W30 or 5W30.
However, fully synthetic (Group IV or Group V) OW40 or 5W40 oils such as
Mobil1 Extended Performance
Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic (made from natural gas)
Quaker State Full Synthetic
Valvoline Extended Protection Premium Full Synthetic
should improve protection at cold startup.

thank you for the suggestion, I am very much tempted to go back to 5w30 Mobil1, that is what I use in my SSR. is there something I can look for as an indicator of engine/oil combined performance? what sort of oil consumption should I expect? should I watch the oil pressure closely? just trying to understand what if anything would indicate the need to go back to 15w40?
thank you very much!

 

[Marky Dissod]

Guess you can wait until winter before using 0W30 or 0W40.
I'd NEVER go back to 15W40 - it's literally a waste of energy at the oil pump.
LS engine bearing clearances are typically in the .0006 to .0008 range, which makes 15W40 just plain STUPID.
To be clear: 15W40 was a DUMB MISTAKE that may have cause engine wear in and of itself.

I like Mobil1 also, but I'm not married to it like GM is, you shouldn't be either.
Other FULL SYNTHETICS like the ones noted above are also fine options, so long as they say API SN+.

Oil consumption? No more than 1 quart between oil changes. In other words:
1. Your oil change interval should not be long enough to allow 1 qt to get consumed between changes
2. If you lose a quart, don't just add a quart back, change the oil and filter -
and try a different oil ... maybe the oil itself is to blame for being too easy to consume.
3. If different oil makes not difference, and it consumes 1 qt every 4500 miles or less, it may be serious.
Get inside the engine and find out what the 'ell is going on.

20psi at warm idle is ok, 25psi is better, 30psi is bordering on a waste of fuel.
More importantly, oil pressure should climb as RpM / engine load increases.