Towing capacity

[StephenW]

So I’m sure this has been written about before but I am doing it again.

I have a 2015 Yukon XL Denali with CAF and BB tune and towing package. Everything I read says GVWR is 7900 lbs with max total of 14000 lbs.

I am looking at a travel trailer but the gvwr is 6900. By my math adding in cargo and people I would be over the limits.

It blows my mind that a 6.2L V8 seems so limited in towing capability.

Am I missing anything? Or do I need to just upgrade my F150 to a HD?


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[HiHoeSilver]

@intheburbs @swathdiver

 

[mpgmc]

whats your dry weight in the trailer?

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[swathdiver]

I am looking at a travel trailer but the gvwr is 6900.

It blows my mind that a 6.2L V8 seems so limited in towing capability.

The motor is not the limitation. It's the chassis, axles, hitch, etc.

What is the dry weight of the TT you're looking at and how much stuff do you think y'all would put in it?

How much does your Denali weigh empty with a full tank of fuel and how much would it weigh with the family in it and all their stuff?

Your truck's GVW is probably 7400 and she probably weighs around 5900. That's a 1500 pound cargo capacity. The Tire and Load sticker inside the door jamb will tell you your cargo capacity and you can verify that at the CAT scales. Mine was within 1 pound.

If you want to play with it, I made a towing calculator on Excel. Send me an email and I'll send it over. It has not been peer reviewed yet or maybe it has and folks were afraid to hurt my feelings! LOL I think it looks right and works.

 

[intheburbs]

Yeah, pretty much that ^^^^

Yes, you have a beastly motor (but it is all aluminum, so more of a hot-rod motor than a heavy-duty towing engine), but you have weak brakes, a weak semi-floater rear end, and all of the other associated half-ton weaknesses.

It's highly unlikely that you'll ever hit the GVWR of a trailer. Take the dry weight, add about 1000 lbs, and that's probably where you'll end up when fully loaded for a trip. But the only way to be sure is to put your rig on a scale and weigh it. Even better, weigh it with and without the trailer, so you can check your weight distribution settings.

There are lots of "half-ton towable" trailers out there. I'm sure you'll be able to find one that fits your needs. That being said, if you really enjoy RVing, it's likely you'll want to upgrade in the future, especially if you have small kids. Myself, I'm on trailer version 4.0, and it's also the reason I have a 2500 Suburban. The 2500 gives me a 16,000-lb GCWR, 2000-lb payload, and 5500-lb rear axle. Current trailer weighs about 8600 lbs loaded. I prefer the SUV over the pickup because we're a family of 5, and the three rows allow the kids to spread out, instead of being packed together in a single back seat.

 

[StephenW]

Dry weight of trailer is 5877. Family plus dog equals 600 lbs.


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[swathdiver]

Dry weight of trailer is 5877. Family plus dog equals 600 lbs.

I reckon you'd be right at the GCWR, within 100 pounds anyway. Look at trailers with a dry weight under or around 5000 pounds. Maybe something 26'-28' long.

 

[intheburbs]

You'd be right at the limits of the truck - specifically the payload and rear axle ratings.

What's your plan? Pulling it to the local lake 100 miles away, or cross-country treks? For longer-distance towing, that'd be more concerning. I'd look at adding a new rear diff cover with cooling fins, stiffer shocks, maybe even new rear springs or airbags. Larger trans cooler and radiator might also be a good idea. Heat is the enemy.

I towed a 7000-lb trailer cross country with my '01 half-ton Burb. I broke stuff. While on vacation. Try explaining to your family why you're spending four days in Mitchell, SD staring at the !@#$!@# corn palace, instead of visiting Rushmore and Yellowstone.

 

[Big Mama]

Also toss in how far you’re going and how often. If it’s under 50-100 miles and you’re close to the limit consider adding a trailer braking system. The other thing I’ve seen used is a weight distributing hitch. Makes things more stable and gets some of the load off your factory hitch.

 

[StephenW]

You'd be right at the limits of the truck - specifically the payload and rear axle ratings.

What's your plan? Pulling it to the local lake 100 miles away, or cross-country treks? For longer-distance towing, that'd be more concerning. I'd look at adding a new rear diff cover with cooling fins, stiffer shocks, maybe even new rear springs or airbags. Larger trans cooler and radiator might also be a good idea. Heat is the enemy.

I towed a 7000-lb trailer cross country with my '01 half-ton Burb. I broke stuff. While on vacation. Try explaining to your family why you're spending four days in Mitchell, SD staring at the !@#$!@# corn palace, instead of visiting Rushmore and Yellowstone.

Mainly close in trips but it would be used in family moves (military) so there could be infrequent long distance moves.


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