DaveO9
Full Access Member
I know I want to change out the 3.08s in my '13, 5.3, 4wd Tahoe, just not sure if I want 3.42 or 3.73. Some factors I'm considering:
- I don't tow anything heavy yet, but my wife and I are considering a small travel trailer. Upper weight limit would be about 5K.
- Would like to stay with the 5.3, without major mods. (not opposed to a cam swap and related. Still have AFM valvetrain, disabled in tune.)
- Hills are a factor in the PNW. Just about any place you go with a trailer will involve significant grades and probably mountain passes.
- Don't want a screamer going down the freeway unloaded at 75 mph. Also don't want to cause big impacts to unloaded highway mpg. (But I'm pretty unclear as to how much effect several hundred rpm has. I've tried some experiments by shifting to 5th and then matching what my rpm would be with different gears, but I think I'm just seeing effects from small grade changes. The experiments did show me, however, that it's not a big difference in noise between 1600 rpm and 2000 rpm.
- rather than swapping R&P, I plan to just buy junkyard compete assemblies, front and rear. Most units I'm looking at have fewer miles than my current ones. But....
- I'd really like to do the upgrade to the 9.5"/14-bolt rear. This adds several hundred to the cost for the 3.42 ratio, but even more for the 3.73 since they never used that ratio with that assembly. I'd have to do a R&P swap if I want both 14 bolt and 3.73.
I put together a spreadsheet to show RPM changes for different scenarios. It uses 6L80 ratios, assuming TC is locked. If you want this in excel to play with different ratios, PM me your email and I'll send it.
Opinions wanted!
- I don't tow anything heavy yet, but my wife and I are considering a small travel trailer. Upper weight limit would be about 5K.
- Would like to stay with the 5.3, without major mods. (not opposed to a cam swap and related. Still have AFM valvetrain, disabled in tune.)
- Hills are a factor in the PNW. Just about any place you go with a trailer will involve significant grades and probably mountain passes.
- Don't want a screamer going down the freeway unloaded at 75 mph. Also don't want to cause big impacts to unloaded highway mpg. (But I'm pretty unclear as to how much effect several hundred rpm has. I've tried some experiments by shifting to 5th and then matching what my rpm would be with different gears, but I think I'm just seeing effects from small grade changes. The experiments did show me, however, that it's not a big difference in noise between 1600 rpm and 2000 rpm.
- rather than swapping R&P, I plan to just buy junkyard compete assemblies, front and rear. Most units I'm looking at have fewer miles than my current ones. But....
- I'd really like to do the upgrade to the 9.5"/14-bolt rear. This adds several hundred to the cost for the 3.42 ratio, but even more for the 3.73 since they never used that ratio with that assembly. I'd have to do a R&P swap if I want both 14 bolt and 3.73.
I put together a spreadsheet to show RPM changes for different scenarios. It uses 6L80 ratios, assuming TC is locked. If you want this in excel to play with different ratios, PM me your email and I'll send it.
Opinions wanted!