Body mount bolt washers rusted away - replacements ?

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NoReverseYukon

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So I was checking out the condition of the body mount cushion washers on my Yukon and most of then have damned near rusted away.
1717535905760.jpeg
Unfortunately, every part # that I find and check doesn't fit.

I'm sure if I hit the junkyard I will find the same rusted away crap that I have now.

I know that my VW has an ETKA site that has diagrams and part #s for any part you could want. Does GM have something like that and, more importantly, is it here somewhere ?

Thanks.
 
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NoReverseYukon

NoReverseYukon

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Well, I found it :
s-l1200.jpg
This is part # 15201791. Stupid-ass cheap design & they cost $45 each.

I bought the polyurethane replacement kit instead.

******************************************

Now my next headache.

How screwed am I ?
IMG_20240607_200459033[1].jpg
IMG_20240607_200515941[1].jpg
This was one of the body mount bolts.

I also think that a couple of the captive nuts are spinning.

My 2 hour project just multiplied exponentially.
 

Big Mama

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Sometimes going forward means taking a few steps back first. Please document the repairs for the next guy.
 

exp500

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On the 80's vintage trucks the captive nuts and clips were really a pita. Solution was to hole saw a spot after drilling a small center hole up. Then welding a nut in place and covering with snap plug after rustproofing new nut. Good Luck!
 
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NoReverseYukon

NoReverseYukon

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Well, I lucked out in that just the one bolt broke off and the rest can be removed in one piece. I also lucked out in that I figured out how to get it out - I think. The one that broke off was just in front of the rear wheel, driver's side.

Option 1 is if I have enough sound bolt threads left that I can Siamese 2 nuts together to spin it out. I have to remove that wheel and the wheelwell liner, then drill a 1/2" diameter hole so I can give the captive nut a bath in PBlaster first.

Option 2 : If the threads are bad all the way up, I will have to cut an access panel out where I drilled that hole, then use an air chisel to separate the nut from the bolt. New bolt, new nut and weld that cap and the panel back in place.

1717880617343.jpeg
 

ncalvo

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The price on the replacement mounts is why I ended up forking over the money on S&B silicone mounts
I didn't have to chase down any hardware and they ride great
They were very pricey tho at like $1000 for the entire kit
 
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NoReverseYukon

NoReverseYukon

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Well, I finished this SOB !

I decided on option #3.
This is what I had left of the bolt that broke after I chased the threads as best I could. And look at that rusted-away platform ! 3 of them were in this piss-poor condition.:
IMG_20240610_163724715.jpg

I bought a coupling nut and tacked it on :
coupling nut.jpg
If I had to do this again, I would have gotten the non-hexagon type coupling nut. This one didn't fit within the metal bushing shoe(?).

I had originally planned on replacing all the original rubber bushings with urethane, but 2 things changed my mind.

1, I read that urethane bushings give a firmer ride. I didn't want that.
And 2, I couldn't get this bolt out from the passenger side radiator bushing.

IMG_20240613_184314402.jpg
So now I have a Frankenstein - I have a mix of old and new bushings.

And all this messing around just to install some side steps I found at the junkyard.

IMG_20240617_112110432.jpg
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The End !
 

tom3

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Here in the snow belt I've ran into that a couple times over the years. Gets to be a real mess. I recently took all the bolts out, cleaned, and put a thick coat of Never Seize on them, wire brushed and painted the big washers. Just after 5 years they were starting to look bad, Tahoe never in snow.
 

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