Body mount bolt washers rusted away - replacements ?

[NoReverseYukon]

So I was checking out the condition of the body mount cushion washers on my Yukon and most of then have damned near rusted away.

Unfortunately, every part # that I find and check doesn't fit.

I'm sure if I hit the junkyard I will find the same rusted away crap that I have now.

I know that my VW has an ETKA site that has diagrams and part #s for any part you could want. Does GM have something like that and, more importantly, is it here somewhere ?

Thanks.

 

[NoReverseYukon]

Well, I found it :

This is part # 15201791. Stupid-ass cheap design & they cost $45 each.

I bought the polyurethane replacement kit instead.

******************************************

Now my next headache.

How screwed am I ?


This was one of the body mount bolts.

I also think that a couple of the captive nuts are spinning.

My 2 hour project just multiplied exponentially.

 

[Big Mama]

Sometimes going forward means taking a few steps back first. Please document the repairs for the next guy.

 

[Larryjb]

It's a different year, it's a pickup, not SUV, ..... but...... might you be so lucky?

It's worth checking out.

 

[Larryjb]

Looks like this is what your life might be like if you are not so lucky.....

 

[exp500]

On the 80's vintage trucks the captive nuts and clips were really a pita. Solution was to hole saw a spot after drilling a small center hole up. Then welding a nut in place and covering with snap plug after rustproofing new nut. Good Luck!

 

[NoReverseYukon]

Well, I lucked out in that just the one bolt broke off and the rest can be removed in one piece. I also lucked out in that I figured out how to get it out - I think. The one that broke off was just in front of the rear wheel, driver's side.

Option 1 is if I have enough sound bolt threads left that I can Siamese 2 nuts together to spin it out. I have to remove that wheel and the wheelwell liner, then drill a 1/2" diameter hole so I can give the captive nut a bath in PBlaster first.

Option 2 : If the threads are bad all the way up, I will have to cut an access panel out where I drilled that hole, then use an air chisel to separate the nut from the bolt. New bolt, new nut and weld that cap and the panel back in place.

 

[ncalvo]

The price on the replacement mounts is why I ended up forking over the money on S&B silicone mounts
I didn't have to chase down any hardware and they ride great
They were very pricey tho at like $1000 for the entire kit

 

[NoReverseYukon]

Well, I finished this SOB !

I decided on option #3.
This is what I had left of the bolt that broke after I chased the threads as best I could. And look at that rusted-away platform ! 3 of them were in this piss-poor condition.:


I bought a coupling nut and tacked it on :

If I had to do this again, I would have gotten the non-hexagon type coupling nut. This one didn't fit within the metal bushing shoe(?).

I had originally planned on replacing all the original rubber bushings with urethane, but 2 things changed my mind.

1, I read that urethane bushings give a firmer ride. I didn't want that.
And 2, I couldn't get this bolt out from the passenger side radiator bushing.


So now I have a Frankenstein - I have a mix of old and new bushings.

And all this messing around just to install some side steps I found at the junkyard.




The End !

 

[tom3]

Here in the snow belt I've ran into that a couple times over the years. Gets to be a real mess. I recently took all the bolts out, cleaned, and put a thick coat of Never Seize on them, wire brushed and painted the big washers. Just after 5 years they were starting to look bad, Tahoe never in snow.