Welp…. Ya Fix One Thing…..Dreaded Lifter Tick

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Well, I replaced the vacuum pump, swapped out the grill shutter……. This morning At 160,000 the dreaded lifter noise. I’m not sure if it’s stuck, collapsed or what. No idiot light, runs rough, sputtered going up the driveway. This one is beyond my abilities so I have an appt in the morning to drop it at the dealer. Alldata shows 9 hrs for 1 side or 11 hours for both so I’ll most likely opt for all 16 to get swapped out. I will keep everyone up to date.

Question….. Does GM have a DOD delete option or am I stuck with these springy turd lifters and an aftermarket DOD delete? If so does anyone know part #s so I info to ask about.
 

CMoore711

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I have never heard of a GM dealer offering the option to do an AFM/DOD delete at the dealership through their service department. Though it could be accomplished mechanically with mostly GM OEM parts it requires an ECM Tune that dealerships do not do.

I'm fairly certain that upon diagnosing the problem they will offer as a repair to replace broken/failed parts with the same (or updated/current part #'s) parts and reassemble.

Depending on your relationship with the service advisor and technician and their experience maybe express to them your interest in an AFM/DOD mechanical delete and ask your service advisor or technician if they know of any local shops they would recommend to do the work?

If you are interested in mechanically deleting the AFM/DOD and know you will be paying someone to do the work I would highly suggest finding a local GM LS/LT performance shop. Many of them will likely be familiar with the process, the parts needed, and be able to offer the ECM tuning service that will also be needed after switching to normal lifters and a non-AFM/DOD cam. A tune will be needed even if you go with a GM OEM non-AFM/DOD cam.

Since your vehicle is out of warranty and you will be paying out of pocket for these repairs I would personally recommend mechanically deleting the AFM/DOD.

You should post up your location and maybe some members can chime in with some shop recommendations in your area.
 

Marky Dissod

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Questions:
1. Does GM have a DOD delete option?
2. Or am I stuck with these springy turd lifters and an aftermarket DOD delete?
3. If so does anyone know part #s so I info to ask about?
For 6.2L V8s? How cool / tight are you with your dealership?
What do you think are the odds that they will transplant LS3 valvetrain parts into your L94?
If you want to get rid of Engine Half@$$, see CMoore711's HELPFUL post above, and take his wise advice.

(CMoore711, I'd've preferred to have referred to your post as 'Helpful', which would've been more precise than 'Love'.
 

K2 Kaiju

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Watched a guy on you tube do this in his garage - 2 part 2 hour video - check it out as its a good video of the involved process. The main thing I took away was the lifter that failed was a non AFM lifter so a conversion guarantees nothing. That being said, if I had to pay the price to rebuild anyway, I would maybe yolo and try for 700+ hp with the delete depending on rest of vehicle...
 
OP
OP
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It’s in great shape overall because I keep up with it, and it’s the wife’s daily driver. Because of that she feels safer with a dealer fix. Don’t want to throw a dog into that fight. I watched the videos too but what is compressed to 2 or so hours is a hell of a lot more and I need to minimize down time. We are in Wilkesboro NC.
 

15burban

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Like was mentioned I doubt the dealer will replace anything different then what it came with new.


When I was getting tires put on my truck at a local small shop I overheard the owner on the phone with a guy. I could tell it was a conversation about cam/lifter failure. When he got off the phone I politely asked what vehicle had the problem. He said a 16 or 17 silverado. I didn't ask too many questions as they had just finished my truck. The owner did say every gm cam and lifter they fix they send the ecm out to have it disabled and surprisingly isn't that much at all. I think the link above is who they use.
 

B-train

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Or, buy 4 credits, and the MVI3 from HP tuners and toggle off the DOD. It's about $550. I just did this for both of my Yukons. More for the 2017 DoD, but also to play around for better mpg and driveability. If you enjoy that sort of thing, you can do it yourself after they repair it with non DOD parts. It can be done right in the parking lot before they fire it up. Or, before they even start any work.

Just out of curiosity, have you tried the Tennessee tune-up? A little sea foam, MMO, or Dexron 3 in the oil and drive it spiritedly for a few miles to see if it shuts up?
 

Trey Hardy

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Or, buy 4 credits, and the MVI3 from HP tuners and toggle off the DOD. It's about $550. I just did this for both of my Yukons. More for the 2017 DoD, but also to play around for better mpg and driveability. If you enjoy that sort of thing, you can do it yourself after they repair it with non DOD parts. It can be done right in the parking lot before they fire it up. Or, before they even start any work.

Just out of curiosity, have you tried the Tennessee tune-up? A little sea foam, MMO, or Dexron 3 in the oil and drive it spiritedly for a few miles to see if it shuts up?
I have freed up my lifters on two or three separate occasions using marvel mystery oil
 

BacDoc

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Watched a guy on you tube do this in his garage - 2 part 2 hour video - check it out as its a good video of the involved process. The main thing I took away was the lifter that failed was a non AFM lifter so a conversion guarantees nothing. That being said, if I had to pay the price to rebuild anyway, I would maybe yolo and try for 700+ hp with the delete depending on rest of vehicle...
This is what I would do!

If you really like the truck and are going to spend money to fix it then I’d take it to a performance shop and get some HP and torque along with the AFM delete .
 

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