Remote Start Troubleshooting

Some things that can cause a ecm crank abort
Software bug
Hardware fault
Crank position sensor
Cam position sensor
Other sensors
Immobilizer malfunction (security)

Something I would try, attempt autostart with key in ignition (ignition off) then maybe with key in run position (if it will allow it)
My theory behind that would be maybe a security issue but if the key chip is present and readable maybe it will work, just spitballing

Also if you sit in the vehicle and try to autostart it do any lights come up on the cluster after it fails?

Doubeleive said:

Some things that can cause a ecm crank abort
Software bug
Hardware fault
Crank position sensor
Cam position sensor
Other sensors
Immobilizer malfunction (security)

Something I would try, attempt autostart with key in ignition (ignition off) then maybe with key in run position (if it will allow it)
My theory behind that would be maybe a security issue but if the key chip is present and readable maybe it will work, just spitballing

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Thanks much. I thought of something…. Could a changed transfer case module be causing the abort? I converted from single speed to 2-speed t-case which of course involved a module change. I didn’t reprogram the module to the VIN - I didn’t learn how to do that since everything seemed to work fine without doing so. But maybe I need to figure out how to do that? In thinking about it, it does seem like the conversion coincides with the remote start issue, time-wise.

DaveO9 said:

Thanks much. I thought of something…. Could a changed transfer case module be causing the abort? I converted from single speed to 2-speed t-case which of course involved a module change. I didn’t reprogram the module to the VIN - I didn’t learn how to do that since everything seemed to work fine without doing so. But maybe I need to figure out how to do that? In thinking about it, it does seem like the conversion coincides with the remote start issue, time-wise.

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We should ask Charles about that one, he's the only one off the top of my head that has done the transfer case swap. Think his transmission just went out.

Dave, when you hit the remote start button on your remote after locking the door twice, do the headlights or parking lights flash?

Doubeleive said:

Also if you sit in the vehicle and try to autostart it do any lights come up on the cluster after it fails?

Click to expand...

Finally got a chance to try this today - yes! CEL comes on for a second when trying to remote start. No other lights and CEL goes out and stays out afterwards.

swathdiver said:

We should ask Charles about that one, he's the only one off the top of my head that has done the transfer case swap. Think his transmission just went out.

Dave, when you hit the remote start button on your remote after locking the door twice, do the headlights or parking lights flash?

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Thanks, James. What is Charles' screen name? Or can you tag him? And yes, parking lights and tail lights flash when using remote start button after locking twice. Not headlights.

I did more poking around with the Tech2 today. I was wondering if it was an issue with either brake or throttle pedals not re-homing correctly after driving the previous time. I don't think so. On throttle pedal: I can see an APP field that shows 0% with engine off or at idle. Acts appropriately when I touch the gas. On the brake pedal: both the BPP and cruise control switches are working properly, according to Tech2. But at home position, with engine off or at idle, I believe brake pedal is at 7%. Should that be at zero at those conditions? And if so, would that affect remote start?

DaveO9 said:

Finally got a chance to try this today - yes! CEL comes on for a second when trying to remote start. No other lights and CEL goes out and stays out afterwards.

Thanks, James. What is Charles' screen name? Or can you tag him? And yes, parking lights and tail lights flash when using remote start button after locking twice. Not headlights.

I did more poking around with the Tech2 today. I was wondering if it was an issue with either brake or throttle pedals not re-homing correctly after driving the previous time. I don't think so. On throttle pedal: I can see an APP field that shows 0% with engine off or at idle. Acts appropriately when I touch the gas. On the brake pedal: both the BPP and cruise control switches are working properly, according to Tech2. But at home position, with engine off or at idle, I believe brake pedal is at 7%. Should that be at zero at those conditions? And if so, would that affect remote start?

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It might as hitting the brake pedal shuts auto start off unless the key is in and in the run position first.. but I am not sure what that reading you are seeing is at "normally" mine is in the shop till probably Wednesday so maybe someone else can check there's in the meantime @swathdiver
Also maybe James can check if there is a autostart diagnostic tree?

DaveO9 said:

Finally got a chance to try this today - yes! CEL comes on for a second when trying to remote start. No other lights and CEL goes out and stays out afterwards.

Thanks, James. What is Charles' screen name? Or can you tag him? And yes, parking lights and tail lights flash when using remote start button after locking twice. Not headlights.

I did more poking around with the Tech2 today. I was wondering if it was an issue with either brake or throttle pedals not re-homing correctly after driving the previous time. I don't think so. On throttle pedal: I can see an APP field that shows 0% with engine off or at idle. Acts appropriately when I touch the gas. On the brake pedal: both the BPP and cruise control switches are working properly, according to Tech2. But at home position, with engine off or at idle, I believe brake pedal is at 7%. Should that be at zero at those conditions? And if so, would that affect remote start?

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I can picture his avatar but cannot remember his screen name, my memory has not been good lately. He's a fairly regular contributor who used to live near me and now lives out west spending lots of time overlanding. I can remember all that but not his name!

If the lights flash, that is because some code has been thrown that will not allow remote start to work. Have you done a full scan for DTCs from all modules off the main page?

The pedal and such has a range that it operates within. Outside that range a DTC is thrown which could turn off remote start. Even an emissions code will disable it.

swathdiver said:

I can picture his avatar but cannot remember his screen name, my memory has not been good lately. He's a fairly regular contributor who used to live near me and now lives out west spending lots of time overlanding. I can remember all that but not his name!

If the lights flash, that is because some code has been thrown that will not allow remote start to work. Have you done a full scan for DTCs from all modules off the main page?

The pedal and such has a range that it operates within. Outside that range a DTC is thrown which could turn off remote start. Even an emissions code will disable it.

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Ah yes, I think his screen name is Tozan!

@Tozan, when you did your t-case conversion, did you end up reprogramming your new TCCM to the VIN? IIRC, you did not, since it's not needed for it to work properly. I have since done the same conversion. Everything works great, except now my remote start does not work and I'm wondering if it is due to the the fact that the TCCM does not match the VIN.

James - I have just two codes that consistently recur: 1) I have an aftermarket radio so there is no communication with that and 2) there is a code related to the in-door courtesy lights that my LT does not have. I believe there is a TSB that says the code is normal and to ignore it. I have cleared all codes and immediately tried the remote start to no avail.

Regarding the brake pedal - I rechecked this tonight with the Tech 2, and I don't think it's the issue. Ignition on, engine off, no pressure on brake pedal I get 208 Counts on the BPP Sensor, with 212 Counts as the "BPPS Learned Home Position." So, calculated brake pedal is actually negative at -4. I think this tells me that the system does NOT think someone is pressing the brake pedal.

I acquired the transfer case and TCCM from the same vehicle and installed them and a new switch in the dash. I did not program anything. It was a simple plug and play with no problems.

Did you ever check if your rear defroster is working and the rear glass is 150% shut?

Any trace of an open door, hood, lift gate or hatch glass will abort the start sequence.