What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Gave this a shot on the Hoe and wife's GLE. Guess we'll see in the sun tomorrow how well it did.

viven44 said:

Installed the ABS module that came back from the eBay service (rapid_electronics). For $79 it was excellent service. 24 hour turnaround!! Mailed on Monday received back Friday.

Nice to not have ABS and brake light glaring at you !

I may have a battery discharge problem maybe from malfunctioning door sensors or ignition lock cylinder (potentially), I’ll open a separate thread on this…

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I know I'm 10 days late but... Do you have the console radio controls for the 2nd row passengers? There's a YouTube video where someone found this. Might be as good a place as any to start.

S33k3r said:

Do you have the console radio controls for the 2nd row passengers?

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Yes there are some buttons back there. Power is the only thing that does anything (enables and disables radio). No response from any of the other buttons.... not sure what I am doing wrong.

viven44 said:

Yes there are some buttons back there. Power is the only thing that does anything (enables and disables radio). No response from any of the other buttons.... not sure what I am doing wrong.

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up front where the rear controls are, switch that one knob to aux iirc. then the rear panel should be able to control the ac temp fan speed and direction.

Scottydoggs said:

up front where the rear controls are, switch that one knob to aux iirc. then the rear panel should be able to control the ac temp fan speed and direction.

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Thanks, how about the rear audio/radio controls ? They seem inactive except the Power button.

viven44 said:

Thanks, how about the rear audio/radio controls ? They seem inactive except the Power button.

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ive read the owners manual to learn how all that works, but really never used it. ive got a dvd player as well, have had the truck for 6 years and never even messed with it. manuals are free on line. mine was supposed to have two sets of head phones and a remote but i never got them things.

viven44 said:

Yes there are some buttons back there. Power is the only thing that does anything (enables and disables radio). No response from any of the other buttons.... not sure what I am doing wrong.

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I am suggesting the radio controls can have a bad module and that is your parasitic loss. There's a YouTube video on it.

S33k3r said:

I am suggesting the radio controls can have a bad module and that is your parasitic loss. There's a YouTube video on it.

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Oh I gotcha...

I think we figured out the parasitic loss. It happens when the vehicle is turned off, key removed, and dinging won't stop with the door open. What I end up doing is re-inserting the ignition key, moving the key to run position, bringing it to off again. It's almost like the ignition key coming out in the accessory mode..... doesn't happen very often. When this issue becomes often enough I'm sure I will need to address it. Guess its a worn ignition cylinder/switch ?

viven44 said:

Oh I gotcha...

I think we figured out the parasitic loss. It happens when the vehicle is turned off, key removed, and dinging won't stop with the door open. What I end up doing is re-inserting the ignition key, moving the key to run position, bringing it to off again. It's almost like the ignition key coming out in the accessory mode..... doesn't happen very often. When this issue becomes often enough I'm sure I will need to address it. Guess its a worn ignition cylinder/switch ?

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That would be what I suggest. Also, unless budget is an issue, I'd just go ahead and do it. With all the security system issues directly associated with the cylinder, it would just be peace of mind for me. And I need all the pieces I can get... <insert drum roll>.

Additionally, make sure you don't have a heavy keychain hanging from your ignition key. That wears out the ignition cylinder SO much faster. I can't get this through the thick skulls of my daughters and/or wife. But, then again, none of them has had their key fall out of the ignition at 50+ miles per hour, lock steering, and start you drifting over in front of a tractor trailer while the car is starting to slow... In the immortal words of Andy Rooney: "I know I have."

S33k3r said:

That would be what I suggest. Also, unless budget is an issue, I'd just go ahead and do it. With all the security system issues directly associated with the cylinder, it would just be peace of mind for me. And I need all the pieces I can get... <insert drum roll>.

Additionally, make sure you don't have a heavy keychain hanging from your ignition key. That wears out the ignition cylinder SO much faster. I can't get this through the thick skulls of my daughters and/or wife. But, then again, none of them has had their key fall out of the ignition at 50+ miles per hour, lock steering, and start you drifting over in front of a tractor trailer while the car is starting to slow... In the immortal words of Andy Rooney: "I know I have."

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Great point… probably the reason for wear from the previous owner. I have never used more than just the key(s) for the vehicle on the ignition cylinder. I have replaced many ignition switches on my 80s pickups I bought used … a heavy keychain will certainly accelerate wear on both the cylinder itself and also the rod moving back and forth could wear down the ignition switch….

Yeah, years of experience with old trucks will teach you a think or 2… it does change your perspective on how you approach problems (emissions, mechanical) … don’t need computers most of the time to tell what is going on… but the more recent newer vehicles certainly need a high level scanner.

I’m still more comfortable driving my carbureted trucks to date … Carry a few spare parts and a gallon of engine oil and I’m good to go

And no budget isn’t an issue. I don’t mind replacing the ignition cylinder, but if the worst it could do is put the car in a battery draining state, maybe I could watch for that and bide my time. But if there are other perils from that I’d do it sooner.