Gas pump keeps stopping when I fuel up.

Foxy said:

Try holding the gas pump upside down while pumping your gas. This tends to help when I'm having trouble pumping gas to get the pump to not stop working

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Thats interesting... Is your 'trick' due to the vent in the gas gun?
( Florida doesn't use a gas gun vent..... Florida knows, that the design of the gun vent is useless.
When I was in California, the gas smell was strong pumping gas. No odor in Florida.

Foxy said:

Try holding the gas pump upside down while pumping your gas. This tends to help when I'm having trouble pumping gas to get the pump to not stop working

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I'd forgotten, but this does work sometimes.

joe

I just fixed this on my 2010 Tahoe. I never topped off gas so I think it’s just an inevitable failure. The charcoal canister under the car is most likely your problem. Be sure to vacuum out the lines to the fuel tank before hooking up the new canister. I posted a very helpful YouTube video on a previous post. The rear vapor vent replacement didn’t help.

mountie said:

Thats interesting... Is your 'trick' due to the vent in the gas gun?
( Florida doesn't use a gas gun vent..... Florida knows, that the design of the gun vent is useless.
When I was in California, the gas smell was strong pumping gas. No odor in Florida.

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ATT rotates between makers for its construction and repair trucks [the old style ones, with the gray box behind the cab]. The out-going batch, when I retired, was Ford. We had to do that to gas up. The Chevys, from the prior batch, didn't have that problem.

The commonly accepted reason was that mounting those gray boxes, on the Fords, forced a kink in the fuel inlet hose. IDK, but flipping the nozzle helped.

joe

I am not a professional mechanic and you may want to get a second opinion for safety reasons but on my 2003 Tahoe I was having the pump shut off early leaving it maybe 3/4 full. My evap vent valve was okay and the charcoal canister has been replaced without any sign of charcoal pellet leaks. A shop had found in the past that when the fuel pump had been replaced the vent line going from the tank rollover/vent valves to the canister had been pinched when reinstalling the tank, so that was fixed. Any of those could make the pump shut off all during fueling, as is your case, as stated here already by others. In my case I guessed that the rollover/vent valves on top of the tank were sticking mostly shut. With a smoke test I could see smoke making it from the filler out the vent line that plugs into the charcoal canister with it unplugged, so there was a path but maybe not enough of one the keep the pump from shutting off. So with the tank less than half full (so I wouldn't potentially blow gasoline out of the tank) and outside to avoid as much fire risk as possible, plus with the gas cap off of course, I blew air into the unplugged line from the tank rollover valve line(s) to the canister. The filler tube flap valve was held open with a tube that came with the smoke test kit to let the air out. CYA statement - Do this at your own risk. Then when I went to the gas station to fill up and it filled all the way up to full without shutting off prematurely. The bad news is that the premature gas filler cutoff has come back to some degree with certain pumps, even on the low gas fill speed notch. I would replace the rollover valves but they are apparently an integral part of the tank on this vehicle and replacement new tanks are not available from the dealer or aftermarket now. I am now thinking of trying to run injector cleaner from the rollover valve line into the tank to try and make the valves work more freely. Maybe this information will help someone.

Fless said:

Wrong order, parts cannon method. And we should use the correct terminology to minimize confusion.

First test the VENT (not purge; that's on the engine) valve that is under the backend of the truck. It should be open / vent with the key off / engine off while fueling. Adding fuel to the tank pushes fumes from the tank into the canister where the bad stuff is stored in the charcoal, and "clean" air is pushed out the vent valve. If that path is blocked in any way, it'll need to be cleared.

If the vent valve is working properly and the vent filter isn't plugged, open up the connections to the canister. If, when you pull the connections off the canister, charcoal pellets fall out of the canister or the lines, it's time for a new canister and having the lines blown out.

If you think you want more detail and a video or two to look at, let us know.

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I would love a video, I'm having the same issue On a 2008 Yukon XL denali that i just bought, first time I put fuel in it it took it fine. The second time I tried to fuel it the nozzle kept cutting off. I even switched fuel pumps thinking it was a bad nozzle but the second one did the same. Thanks

JustPlaneMike said:

I would love a video, I'm having the same issue On a 2008 Yukon XL denali that i just bought, first time I put fuel in it it took it fine. The second time I tried to fuel it the nozzle kept cutting off. I even switched fuel pumps thinking it was a bad nozzle but the second one did the same. Thanks

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I’m finally replacing the canister but I cannot remove this last line for the life of me.. I don’t want to damage it … can someone help??

Chvytahoe11 said:

I’m finally replacing the canister but I cannot remove this last line for the life of me.. I don’t want to damage it … can someone help??

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I'm just guessing...... It looks like you "press in & pull" ( notice the clips ? )

mountie said:

I'm just guessing...... It looks like you "press in & pull" ( notice the clips ? )

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Tried that already , but it won’t budge.. going to get some lunch and give it a try again in a bit… maybe I need to eat spinach …