What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

viven44 said:

Thanks, how about the rear audio/radio controls ? They seem inactive except the Power button.

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On my 2001, I have the rear audio controls. They haven't worked ever since l swapped out the stock head unit years ago. If i remember correctly, the rear audio controls only controlled the headphone jack on the audio panel. When activated, the rear speakers are muted/disabled, and the selected audio source is played through the headphone jack. Not sure if they ALL work like that or not. But my truck came with the mid grade stereo system. Its the amplified system with a factory rear subwoofer, but its NOT the BOSE system. However, when AM/FM was selected, it DID override the dash radio. I suspect its because the radio actually had to be on to supply radio audio to the rear headphone jacks. When Cd/Cassette/Auxiliary was selected, the in dash head unit stayed on whatever it was already playing, and was unaffected. For instance, if I had the radio playing an FM station and a rear passenger selected CD, the CD would play ONLY through the rear headphone jacks, and the FM radio would continue playing up front. (On the two front door speakers only). But if I was listening to a CD, and the rear passenger selected FM radio, then my in dash radio would switch over to radio. The kids used to piss me off with that all the time.

Was driving to work and I heard a loud pop from the driver side rear window when I went to roll it up. Window was stuck an inch down. Replaced the window motor and actuator. Did it myself, after watching some videos online. Took me 2 hours but I was going slow. Window works again. Used Dorman part 748-228. It’s slightly slower than stock but I’m happy I saved money doing it myself.

EDIT: I had to take the door panel off again this morning because I had a rattle in the door. It ended up being the little white clip retainer that holds the cable to the actuator. Dorman drilled the hole too big so the plastic clip was moving around. I ziptied the cable to the actuator bracket. No more rattle. Be sure to check this before you install. Cheers!

P0449 Evap code popped up Sunday. Cleared, but would come back on every startup. Figured it might be vent solenoid under by the gas tank. Got lazy and with a lot going on, took it to mechanic. 3 hours later. Fixed.

mwilson62000 said:

P0449 Evap code popped up Sunday. Cleared, but would come back on every startup. Figured it might be vent solenoid under by the gas tank. Got lazy and with a lot going on, took it to mechanic. 3 hours later. Fixed.

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What did they replace?

latvius said:

What did they replace?

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The evap vent solenoid under the truck by the gas tank.

My a/c blower was making a womp womp noise like a helicopter and driving me nuts. I replaced the blower and it wasn't it so I replaced the resistor, this time I went ahead and got the one you splice in since I have replaced the other kind multiple times as they don't last. Watched a video on removing the terminals of the connector instead of splicing and thought that would look cleaner.
First off was a real PITA getting those connectors apart and getting the terminals out. They may come apart but I don't think they were made too. Once I get it together I find out something went wrong with the signal wire as it was not getting voltage to turn on the fan. Had to run to the parts store to buy another resistor just to get the wire harness (I didn't want to wait for shipping a wire harness to me).
All is well now but I will never try that again.

New front and rear diff fluids and the transfer case fluid. Winter is around the corner.

Front windows tinted with 30% ceramic. Not sure why this is the first time in 20 years of ownership....

Cerakote applied to running boards and front bumper. Will do rear bumper and door panels another day. Maybe windscreen cowl?

It wasn't exactly today...more like the last few months but here goes. BEFORE:

AFTER:

latvius said:

My a/c blower was making a womp womp noise like a helicopter and driving me nuts. I replaced the blower and it wasn't it so I replaced the resistor, this time I went ahead and got the one you splice in since I have replaced the other kind multiple times as they don't last. Watched a video on removing the terminals of the connector instead of splicing and thought that would look cleaner.
First off was a real PITA getting those connectors apart and getting the terminals out. They may come apart but I don't think they were made too. Once I get it together I find out something went wrong with the signal wire as it was not getting voltage to turn on the fan. Had to run to the parts store to buy another resistor just to get the wire harness (I didn't want to wait for shipping a wire harness to me).
All is well now but I will never try that again.

View attachment 441093

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What does the resistor do?