OBSalsoNNBS
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2024
- Posts
- 17
- Reaction score
- 24
Been a lurker here since I bought my lady a rather clean 2012 Tahoe LS three months ago. 156K miles.
I'm above average mechanically inclined for being a [cough] mellenial, but untill now have always run older vehicles (IE a 263K 97 Burb) for ease of repairs and noted lack of sensor issues...
Two weeks or so ago, Check engine light came on and went away in the same drive. I checked with my entry level scanner anyway. It gave P0121, Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Range/performance problem. General online consensus is clean the throttle body.
I put it off (NOT ADVISED!!) then two weeks later, it went into limp home.
The DIC told me:
"Reduced Engine Power"
"Service Stabilitrak"
"Service [something else]"
The wife told me:
"This better not be from running it in M5 mode!!"
In addition to low power, it was lurching badly when downshifting from 2nd to 1st and worse when coming to a stop in 1st.
The scanner gave P2135 "Throttle/Pedal position switch/Sensor A/B Voltage Correlation"
I yanked the throttle body off and cleaned it. Smacked it back on and attempted the 3 minute idle-1 minute rest-3 minute idle-drive above 45 for a few relearn procedure. Limp mode was gone, however it still was lurching.
Okay, improvement, but not fixed. I got home, shut it off.
Now here's the recurring problem:
Immediately after, I restarted just for the heck of it and it flew up to 3000 RPMs at idle, slowly climbing to 3500. I shut her down and went inside to scratch my head.
I ended up replacing, in order, the TB postion sensor, the connector at the throttle body-soldered (live data showed the TB % jumping around while I wiggled it), and Pedal Position Sensor. All ACdelco except the Throttle Body Position sensor, which is Duralast. I tested the Duralast unit while on the truck through the new connector with my multimeter and it seems A-OK. I have an ACdelco TBPS too just in case.
Before each replacement, i disconnected the battery and let the engine cool overnight. After each replacement, the EXACT same 3K idle problem occurred after attempting the relearn. It's always when engine is hot after the drive portion of the relearn.
I remembered to replug in the PCV line before swapping the connector. May be responsible for the early P0300 misfire code, not sure?
I've got the following codes right now:
P0122 Throttle/Pedal position Sensor/Switch A circuit LOW
P0233Throttle/Pedal position Switch/Sensor B circuit HIGH
P0300 Random/multiple misfires
P0507 Idle RPM higher than expected (no kidding)
Now I'm thinking that either:
A) relearn procedure is not working correctly, I'm not really willing to see if it "figures itself out" while acting like that (3500 rpm) and throwing codes.
but more likely
B) I've got a phantom bad wire. The wire split loom absolutely crumbled where it ran above the valve cover.
I had put off investigating the harness because swapping sensors is easy. I checked about 2 feet of it from the TBPS to the back of the valve cover and it visually looks fine, just a little dirty.
I also haven't replaced the throttle body itself (don't know how to test), or the PCM. Both of which are on the list of possibilities.
I figured I'd ask the giants here so I might stand on a shoulder...
Thanks in advance!
I'm above average mechanically inclined for being a [cough] mellenial, but untill now have always run older vehicles (IE a 263K 97 Burb) for ease of repairs and noted lack of sensor issues...
Two weeks or so ago, Check engine light came on and went away in the same drive. I checked with my entry level scanner anyway. It gave P0121, Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Range/performance problem. General online consensus is clean the throttle body.
I put it off (NOT ADVISED!!) then two weeks later, it went into limp home.
The DIC told me:
"Reduced Engine Power"
"Service Stabilitrak"
"Service [something else]"
The wife told me:
"This better not be from running it in M5 mode!!"
In addition to low power, it was lurching badly when downshifting from 2nd to 1st and worse when coming to a stop in 1st.
The scanner gave P2135 "Throttle/Pedal position switch/Sensor A/B Voltage Correlation"
I yanked the throttle body off and cleaned it. Smacked it back on and attempted the 3 minute idle-1 minute rest-3 minute idle-drive above 45 for a few relearn procedure. Limp mode was gone, however it still was lurching.
Okay, improvement, but not fixed. I got home, shut it off.
Now here's the recurring problem:
Immediately after, I restarted just for the heck of it and it flew up to 3000 RPMs at idle, slowly climbing to 3500. I shut her down and went inside to scratch my head.
I ended up replacing, in order, the TB postion sensor, the connector at the throttle body-soldered (live data showed the TB % jumping around while I wiggled it), and Pedal Position Sensor. All ACdelco except the Throttle Body Position sensor, which is Duralast. I tested the Duralast unit while on the truck through the new connector with my multimeter and it seems A-OK. I have an ACdelco TBPS too just in case.
Before each replacement, i disconnected the battery and let the engine cool overnight. After each replacement, the EXACT same 3K idle problem occurred after attempting the relearn. It's always when engine is hot after the drive portion of the relearn.
I remembered to replug in the PCV line before swapping the connector. May be responsible for the early P0300 misfire code, not sure?
I've got the following codes right now:
P0122 Throttle/Pedal position Sensor/Switch A circuit LOW
P0233Throttle/Pedal position Switch/Sensor B circuit HIGH
P0300 Random/multiple misfires
P0507 Idle RPM higher than expected (no kidding)
Now I'm thinking that either:
A) relearn procedure is not working correctly, I'm not really willing to see if it "figures itself out" while acting like that (3500 rpm) and throwing codes.
but more likely
B) I've got a phantom bad wire. The wire split loom absolutely crumbled where it ran above the valve cover.
I had put off investigating the harness because swapping sensors is easy. I checked about 2 feet of it from the TBPS to the back of the valve cover and it visually looks fine, just a little dirty.
I also haven't replaced the throttle body itself (don't know how to test), or the PCM. Both of which are on the list of possibilities.
I figured I'd ask the giants here so I might stand on a shoulder...
Thanks in advance!