2008 Tahoe Z71 Rebuild - DOD Failure - DOD/AFM Delete & Performance Upgrades (201k miles)

Hey Tahoe community,

Sharing my rebuild project after experiencing:
- DOD failure at 201k miles on cylinder 4.
- Transmission failure at 192k (sun shell welded to rear planet on highway, due to internal cooling malfunction)

Going for a full rebuild with DOD/VVT delete and reliability upgrades. Here's my parts list:

Engine Internals:
- AMS Racing Stage 2-212/218; .480/.480 DOD/AFM Delete Kit
- King Armor Coated Main Bearings
- King Armor Coated Rod Bearings
- AMS Armor Coated Cam Bearings
- HD Timing Chain (GM #12646386)

Valvetrain:
- Harland Sharp 1.7 Ratio Roller Rockers (Adjustable)
- PAC 1.307 Ovate Beehive Springs
- Stock retainers/locks (confirmed compatible)

Sealing:
- AMS Racing Lower Gasket Set
- Considering upgrade to ARP head bolts (+$95)

Additional Plans:
- Full dual exhaust upgrade
- Complete DOD/VVT delete
- Fresh rebuild with upgraded components

Looking for feedback on this parts combination and any recommendations before I start the build. Anyone running a similar setup?

I bought this Tahoe with 181k miles on it, and have owed on it since. Whoever owned this before me beat the piss out of it and starved it of oil. Cam has heat marks ..

Vehicle specs:
2008 Tahoe
5.3L Gen IV
4l60E
201k miles
Edit; Z71 package.

Here are some pictures too

(transmission magnet, ended up finding very low mileage one instead of rebuild)

SmokesMagee said:

- AMS Racing Stage 2-212/218; .480/.480 DOD/AFM Delete Kit

Click to expand...

What made you pick this camshaft?

swathdiver said:

What made you pick this camshaft?

Click to expand...

Nothing specifically made me choose this camshaft.
I want a stage 2 for durability. I am open to suggestions as I am still contemplating the cam. Perhaps a Truck Norris. But I'm not 100% on my cam selection.

Here is reference;

SmokesMagee said:

Nothing specifically made me choose this camshaft.
I want a stage 2 for durability. I am open to suggestions as I am still contemplating the cam. Perhaps a Truck Norris. But I'm not 100% on my cam selection.

Here is reference;

Performance AFM DOD Delete Kit w/ "No Springs Required" Truck Camshaft for Gen IV 5.3L Chevrolet GMC Truck SUV

This kit includes everything needed to delete AFM/DOD (Active Fuel Management) from 2006-2009 GM Gen IV 5.3L engines. This kit will work with 2010-later engines, with the use of an LS2 style front cover (VVT Deletion). Kit Includes:-Your choice of BTR "No Springs Required" Truck Camshaft -Your...

www.amsracing.net

Click to expand...

Well, do they equate stages now with strength? I thought some manufacturers offered camshafts in different materials with the same profile?

A camshaft with more than 210 degree duration in a 5.3 gives up bottom end torque for top end power. The only exception to this is the BTR Truck Torque camshaft because of the tight lobe separation angle.

Stages / Levels are a dumb way to explain, so they'll stick around, maybe even become more popular ...

Biggest reason why I'm uninterested in buying a cam is all the dyno charts start at 3000RpM or higher.
What if I don't want a high-stall torque converter? What if my engine spends most of its time UNDER 3000RpM?

Despite costs, this is why I think an LQ4 or other 6.0L, or 4.10, get more bang for the buck than camming a 5.3L.
ANYWAY

You should select your cam based on where your engine spends most of its time, likely UNDER 4000RpM.
Choose correctly, you will barely notice any MpG penalty, and the engine will be stronger / more fun.
Choose poorly, the MpG penalty will be in your face, and the engine will feel weak before it comes on stronger.

swathdiver said:

Well, do they equate stages now with strength? I thought some manufacturers offered camshafts in different materials with the same profile?

Click to expand...

No, you're correct.

swathdiver said:

A camshaft with more than 210 degree duration in a 5.3 gives up bottom end torque for top end power. The only exception to this is the BTR Truck Torque camshaft because of the tight lobe separation angle.

Click to expand...

I did not know this.
I shall look into the BTR Truck Torque cam.
What I'm looking for in a cam;
Something not too extreme while still maintaining daily driving (is not going to be daily driver, as I have a daily for fuel economy, but will be casual driver, as well as taken to the track)(and backup for main commute) looking to give it some real power without putting forced induction.
My goal is to keep the truck till the day I die.

I am no mechanic, my brother is ASE Master certified and don't want to help me because "I get paid to work on lifts" I have no idea what I'm doing, I'm a monkey with a wrench, but I generally figure it out, as I put a lot of time into research and also things just bolt together.. my uncle builds engines and is willing to help me put this together, I just have to get the parts.

I'm looking for some real input from others that know more about this. Any input is appreciated.


I have also put a new rear end in this truck, with the help of my brother, as the rear end was damn near going out in this. Had no fluid when I pulled the cover as it all spun out the axle shaft.

Marky Dissod said:

Stages / Levels are a dumb way to explain, so they'll stick around, maybe even become more popular ...

Biggest reason why I'm uninterested in buying a cam is all the dyno charts start at 3000RpM or higher.
What if I don't want a high-stall torque converter? What if my engine spends most of its time UNDER 3000RpM?

Despite costs, this is why I think an LQ4 or other 6.0L, or 4.10, get more bang for the buck than camming a 5.3L.
ANYWAY

You should select your cam based on where your engine spends most of its time, likely UNDER 4000RpM.
Choose correctly, you will barely notice any MpG penalty, and the engine will be stronger / more fun.
Choose poorly, the MpG penalty will be in your face, and the engine will feel weak before it comes on stronger.

Click to expand...

Thank you for this input.. even on the highway it's only at 1500-2000 then going around the city is about the same. If you're towing I suppose rpm would be different. This is actually really valuable feedback. Thank you.
Reading this really sets apart why daily drivers are so far from being "high performance".

And to top it off. I've also put all new front end suspension components on. Detroit Axle. And yes, I replaced the knuckle, old one was bent and worn down. New brakes (minus caliper), and shoes.

SmokesMagee said:

I've also put all new front end suspension components on. Detroit Axle...

Click to expand...

Be very careful with Detroit Axle components, they are the bottom of the barrel as far as quality goes.

Did you keep the same gear ratio?

swathdiver said:

Be very careful with Detroit Axle components, they are the bottom of the barrel as far as quality goes.

Did you keep the same gear ratio?

Click to expand...

Yes, same gear ratio.. and yeah... After buying them I instantly regretted my decision when I started putting parts on. But it desperately desperately needed it

SmokesMagee said:

... even on the highway it's only at 1500-2000, then going around the city is about the same.
If you're towing I suppose RpM would be different. This is actually really valuable feedback. Thank you.
Reading this really sets apart why daily drivers are so far from being "high performance".

Click to expand...

If you're towing, or playing hard, 4.10 or 4.30, especially if the tires are taller than GM OE, or the wheels are heavier.
More assertive gearing helps prevent lugging the engine at too low an RPM, and protects the transmission too.
The Tow / Haul button makes the most of whatever axle gear GM compromised it with,
avoiding unnecessary / early upshifts, and downshifting to protect the engine & transmission.

All that said, there's a reason why the Tow / Haul rating of a vehicle improves with more assertive axle gears.
In the real world, more axle gear gets better city MpG, might get slightly worse highway MpG unladen.
But the heavier you tow, or the harder you play, 4.10 or 4.30.

Marky Dissod said:

If you're towing, or playing hard, 4.10 or 4.30, especially if the tires are taller than GM OE, or the wheels are heavier.
More assertive gearing helps prevent lugging the engine at too low an RPM, and protects the transmission too.
The Tow / Haul button makes the most of whatever axle gear GM compromised it with,
avoiding unnecessary / early upshifts, and downshifting to protect the engine & transmission.

All that said, there's a reason why the Tow / Haul rating of a vehicle improves with more assertive axle gears.
In the real world, more axle gear gets better city MpG, might get slightly worse highway MpG unladen.
But the heavier you tow, or the harder you play, 4.10 or 4.30.

Click to expand...

With this, I am definitely going to invest in a separate transmission cooler.
I appreciate the feedback. It really helps with building this truck.