Help! Need new sway bar and axle on lifted truck.

wjburken said:

Depends - If you are able to extract the busted off part of the bolt, you can chase the threads and use the same length of bolt. If not and you need to make it a thru hole, then you will need a longer bolt. Keep in mind that on the back side of the frame it has an extruded portion that is threaded, it is not a captive nut, so you will need to account for that if you make it a thru hole.

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mikez71 said:

I used a stock bolt. (thru hole, behind captive nut, into new nut)
Just enough thread, so long as you can compress the swaybar bushing.
If you feel behind your mounted bolts, they should protrude past the captive nut about 1/2" IIRC..
And you can't go TOO much longer if I'm remembering right. Barely space to get the open end wrench in there.

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mikez71 said:

Looking at my left over hardware.. I ripped the bag apart for the nuts that show the size.. But I have 3 used swaybar bolts.
I believe I bought a new set of swaybar bolts.

So IIRC properly, you can use the originals. It just won't be as easy to start, you'll need to shove the clamp up there (might need to use a jack to compress the rubber bushing, mine were new) to get the threads started.

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YanaCakes said:

Thank you so much everyone for your advice. I already have parts on order and I am going to work on it next week, using everyone's feedback. What do you all think about axles? My driver front is leaking and they're due. Can I go with OEM or do I need something different since it's lifted 3.5"?

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mikez71 said:

I heard a diff drop is desirable at that height, to help your cv joint angles.

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Joseph Garcia said:

@Trey Hardy may be able to provide you with some perspective on your question.

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YanaCakes said:

What does that entail, do you know?

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