There are just some days I wish I didn't turn wrenches

I always insist on replacing the knock sensors while I am in there. I have done 4 of these things so far. You can look back thru this thread and see some on the work. While I cringe about Dorman parts, I think the all metal Dorman replacement is a good choice. If you see anything else during disassembly, deal with it.

By the way, it is easy to see it when it starts to leak. 1. If you look straight down past where the filter housing is, with a flashlight, when it starts to leak, there will be an oil bath reflecting pool down there. If you see dry or just dirt/leaves, then it is not leaking. The cavity there is like a bathtub. 2. If the bath tub gets full enough, as you turn left and right, the high oil level will rock and splash out and drain down. I did one in a Jeep Wrangler and it was not a transverse engine and it would splash out when they accelerated or while braking.

I have got these down to a science now. Typical time for me is 1.5 to 2.0 total hours, start to finish.

By the way, is an easy sell, on the knock sensors, if the oil is in there and those sensors have been living in an oil bath. Lots of pics.

My old neighbors are having me do some work on their vehicles: The 2015 Town & Country is coming for the transmission cooling lines and pan seal and am awaiting on parts. Some come to day.

His MIL was in recently for rough run and I did new plugs and Ignition coil boots and cleaned MAF and throttle bore. Smoothed right out. 98K miles on the old plugs. I found signs of some back pressure in the PCV system and a vacuum pump leaking oil. Those vacuum pumps have an oil passage that get oil fed up to the shaft that turns the internals. When the passage gets clogged, oil starvation and the shaft seizes and shatters the hat around it. The shaft is driven by the end of the cam. The trick is to key the new shaft drive with the notch on end of cam. Took me one try. You know you are off if you cannot push the hat thru the seal. I replaced the seal and the pump comes with a gasket. Best to unplug the PCM and push out of the way and remove the PCM. Also, remove a retaining bolt on the air snorkel to the throttle body and deal with a spring clip that holds the snorkel to the throttle body. Gotta be careful with some spacer clips on the spring. See pics: The first pic shows the clogged up oil feed hole on the back of the vacuum pump. Right in the center of the pic. You can also see where the oil feeds to the oily shaft and the slot you have to key with the cam. Sorry, the pics posted out of the order I loaded them.

I also dealt with the PITA PCV system. The valves unbolted with a new to me tool. A 5 point torx. I left the valves on the old line/tubing, because they are a real PITA to remove. Have to try and dig a release tool in there and there is not enough room. I am replacing anyway, so no big deal to leave on. The third arm of the tubing feeds to a valve that attaches at a snorkel for the air feed to turbo. I took it off as one piece and broke the pieces till it cane loose. Sorry for the pic order confusion. You can see the new tube and the 1 valve at the front and the rear valve is coming in the morning.

Before disassembly: In the second pic here you can see the 5 point torx bolt instead of the 6 point.

Made in Mexico label... I am guessing it is a GM or a Ford... Betting its a GM.

You didnt mention what it was, so just guessing.

2018 Equinox 1.5 turbo AWD.

Fresh air and foul air valves here today and I put it all back together and road tested. All good and no codes.

Do you get nostalgic for the days when you could actually see the engine?

Just popping the hood spoils most of the fun I used to get from mechanicing on my car/truck.

joe