YukonLover
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It reads like I solve calculus... and I can't do that. lol
OIL PSI / BRAND / WEIGHT
- Thread starter YukonLover
- Start date
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strutaeng
Full Access Member
Umm. IDK if anyone has actually done a direct comparison of cluster gauge vs mechanical guage. Maybe with a tee/plumbing and both sender a mechanical guage hooked up at the same time?
To me it's more like "low, medium, and high" readings. I believe Fords of this generation show this on the cluster. I think most cars don't even show an oil pressure gauge, no?
Well that’s actually kind of the way i look at it but instead of low/normal/high more like “here’s a ballpark range of the pressure”
Again i never believe the dummy gauges are particularly accurate, but still feel like some sort of system/sensor is measuring psi and pushing the needle around more or less psi.
I am not saying you are wrong, you could be totally correct but also with your theory I think like there would be less inconsistencies in the readings if it was basically reading at low/normal/high. Ie: the gauges would basically only read at 20/40/60 psi (save 0 and 80 psi for equipment failures). But if your gauge is reading 30-35 psi in the city, then 40 on highway, then 25 idling at a red light , just seems like these readings (even if not particularly accurate) are coming from something giving more precise readings than just low/med/high.. but honestly i really don’t know, so. . . Just saying for the sake of discussion.
As far as other vehicles, i really have no idea. Practically every vehicle I’ve ever owned or driven has been a large Chevrolet or Ford SUV or pickup truck with a V8 that definitely *did* have an oil pressure gauge, and the few exceptions I don’t particularly remember. I don’t doubt that most passenger sedans and coupes/crossovers may not even have an OP dummy gauge on the dash, especially newer vehicles.
Donal
Full Access Member
Maybe you can check the operating oil level when the engine is warm and on level ground. Engine at normal idle speed.
Joseph Garcia
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Interesting. As part of an ongoing major mod, I just had my oil pressure measured with a mechanical oil pressure gauge to test the accuracy of my cluster oil pressure gauge, and both gauges were within a few PSI of each other, both at idle and and at 2500 RPM.
strutaeng
Full Access Member
That's good to know. Maybe I'm completely wrong and just don't know it then? This is on a GMT900, right? I believe in those vehicles the oil pressure is actually shown on a PID, no? Maybe something changed?
The GMT800s don't show oil pressure on PID, as far as I know.
Thanks for sharing your findings.
Last edited:
Joseph Garcia
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Yes, it is a GMT900 truck.
rockola1971
Full Access Member
Why do believe the mechanical gauge is "more or less" accurate than the sender type? They both have a percentage of error. Doubt GM lists the accuracy range. I would hazard to guess that its a +10/-10% error range which is only +/- 3psi at 30 PSI. While not truly significant error at just 3psi range, it is still an error. The problem with the sender type is the error stacking. You have the sender, wiring connection, Cluster wiring, board connections and traces with the silver migration problems and then ultimately the DC stepper motor for the gauge needle itself. All of those can add to the overall error. Sure the whole system is accurate enough when the vehicle rolls off the line with that new car smell but thing degrade over time and our generation chassis aint getting any younger. Take for instance a wore out front suspension which creates havoc alone on the electrical system with all the jolts every time a decent rough spot in the road or offroad is encountered.
nonickatall
Full Access Member
At first, my truck's oil pressure was relatively low.
I started by replacing the O-ring on the oil pump. That helped a little.
But what helped the most was that for the last four oil changes I have added 1 liter of diesel to the oil before each oil change and driven 20 to 30 km with it.
That loosens the carbon in the engine. I don't know why that increased the oil pressure. According to my technical understanding, it should actually reduce it, because the back pressure in the system is reduced. Maybe it loosened the carbon from the pressure relief valve.
I have no idea.
But my oil pressure is much better. And the ticking noise of my hydross is almost gone.
Of course it is lower when the car is in idle, than when it is driving, and of course it is lower when the oil is very hot, than when it is cold.
But it is never too low since.
I started by replacing the O-ring on the oil pump. That helped a little.
But what helped the most was that for the last four oil changes I have added 1 liter of diesel to the oil before each oil change and driven 20 to 30 km with it.
That loosens the carbon in the engine. I don't know why that increased the oil pressure. According to my technical understanding, it should actually reduce it, because the back pressure in the system is reduced. Maybe it loosened the carbon from the pressure relief valve.
I have no idea.
But my oil pressure is much better. And the ticking noise of my hydross is almost gone.
Of course it is lower when the car is in idle, than when it is driving, and of course it is lower when the oil is very hot, than when it is cold.
But it is never too low since.
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
I know my engine ACTUALLY idles at 600RpM, because I checked.
