the smoke test on mine was leaking pretty good even if it's only a tiny leak I don't need it giving me more brain damage than I already self inflicted lol
that's weird, did you try seeing if there is anything in the hole where the line connects? piece of plastic blocking it or anything? plastic plug that got shoved in?
if you are approaching basically anything and not on the gas pedal you should feel it start to brake, for drivers like me it's a annoying feature, but just push the pedal and it goes anyway.
the wire probably goes to the bcm but not sure to be honest @mikez71 probably has a diagram
I am running dual interstate agm's in parallel which are around 4 1/2 years old now, I expect they are at the end of there rope soon the cali heat kills batteries
plugs, wire, clean the maf and throttle body, new air filter. fuel injection service or keep throwing injector cleaner in it for a while.
at 190k no telling what else could be happening.
probably a good idea to monitor the fuel pressure when this occurs just to rule it out.
one thing to keep in mind is that by default upon startup the charging system will command higher output from the alternator for the first *** seconds to re-juice the battery from starting, so 14-15v in this case is normal for like the first minute or so. then it drops down to normal requested...
I didn't expect the cracks that was out of the blue but they were able to weld it, I guess well see how long that last's
been thinking about a carven as it sounds pretty nice on the Silverado but the shop said I would likely get drone in the suv
lol, ya good luck. "maybe" they have a method to externally pump it up to higher pressure to help detect a leak.
I would expect to be put at the end of the line on this one....especially being warranty
the rvc system goes into default when the clamp sensor around the main ground cable is disconnected
so OP you might try doing that and see what happens, if the sensor is bad it might not be throwing any codes but you would be able to see the rvc system status with a tech2
it's going to show the...
ok, well 2-weeks is a slow leak you will need to spray with soap and water mix and examine closely for any bubbles, that slow of a leak will likely be hard to find mostly because you can't just dip it in water like a tire. you going to have to lay under there and look, might help to back it up...
also check the wire harness that feeds into the rear hatch from the body that is visible top center when you have the rear hatch open
look for any wear, bare wire.
the dimmer should work anytime, just harder to tell in daylight (try covering the cluster with a piece of cardboard to shade it then adjust the knob to see)
but... I could be wrong this has come up before in the past, I think the issue was not being able to turn off the lights during the daytime...
the interior/cluster/door switch/panel lights are on day or night, they just dim at dusk
in any case the switch controls the brightness and headlight switch turns them off to this
the lowest you can get the interior is to this, the ppv's might have a option to turn that off also
that's for my subwoofer amp power wire it runs from the battery under the truck to the back, then I also have some blue led lights under there but need to buy new ones there pretty much burnt out
pretty common for these, had the wifes done + the front part of the roof for $1200-1300 I think, was $1000 for the hood but then I asked how much more to blend the forward part of the roof in as well. cash talks......
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