2014 Suburban Electrical gremlins

[bacon612]

Check out the note on circle at the top...

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Im unclear on what you are trying to show me here. I have a single battery.

 

[Doubeleive]

Couple things...

I bought an oem negative cable in the senseless pursuit of throwing money at parts to solve this issue. The delco negative cable comes with a new clamp sensor.

In my case, i found that the rvc system would only be disabled (or default as you say) when i disconnected the 2 pin from the alternator. When just disconnecting the clamp sensor, my voltage output was still high 14s and into 15s. Im now curious if theres a way to test the wire between the clamp sensor and the BCM (or wherever it goes). Would the clamp sensor throw a CEL if it was bad?

Interesting about the bad battery. When this issue began, i started by replacing my AGM (Costco) Iterstate battery that was a year old. I got a new Interstate AGM from costco. Same result. Then i swapped that for an Interstate Flooded (also from costco) and thats whats in there now. None of these swaps have shown me any progress in solving the issue. I did read, however, that generally speaking, you are suposed to replace batteries in these trucks with what came in them from factory. Which is flooded. Who knows...

Ive attached 3 screenshots below that have educated me about how the RVC system operates
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one thing to keep in mind is that by default upon startup the charging system will command higher output from the alternator for the first *** seconds to re-juice the battery from starting, so 14-15v in this case is normal for like the first minute or so. then it drops down to normal requested voltage.
unplugging the 2-pin alternator is basically turning off the alternator, the signal is digital, no signal-no charging
unplugging the rvc sensor does not throw a code, but it may show a error somewhere in the tech2 data I believe I saw it in there somewhere when I was ballz deep in the issue but that 4+ years ago.
unplugging the rvc sensor should make it default to 13.4v or around there, but this may be dependent upon the battery state of charge and battery temperature and draw.

if you have a tech2 you can go into the charging system and see what mode it is in and all the relevant data it should show something like economy mode=true/false, or not commanded, something to that effect. it should also show the draw and what is being commanded versus what is it actually doing.

during all my troubleshooting I had also replaced my ground cable and the sensor, but determined at some point that it was not my problem at all. I replaced the battery and re-tested the charging system with the tech2 and everything was working normal again and haven't looked at it since.


the problem the bad battery created was the draw was more voltage/amps than the alternator was providing because the battery was saying hey it's all ok, but the actual draw was more than the alternator was putting out so it would drop to like 11v and be in economy mode when it should have been making 14v+

if you have wipers on full speed, seat heaters, headlights on, flashers on, radio, defrost on. all at the same time it sure as heck should not be in economy mode

 

[bacon612]

one thing to keep in mind is that by default upon startup the charging system will command higher output from the alternator for the first *** seconds to re-juice the battery from starting, so 14-15v in this case is normal for like the first minute or so. then it drops down to normal requested voltage.
unplugging the 2-pin alternator is basically turning off the alternator, the signal is digital, no signal-no charging
unplugging the rvc sensor does not throw a code, but it may show a error somewhere in the tech2 data I believe I saw it in there somewhere when I was ballz deep in the issue but that 4+ years ago.
unplugging the rvc sensor should make it default to 13.4v or around there, but this may be dependent upon the battery state of charge and battery temperature and draw.

if you have a tech2 you can go into the charging system and see what mode it is in and all the relevant data it should show something like economy mode=true/false, or not commanded, something to that effect. it should also show the draw and what is being commanded versus what is it actually doing.

during all my troubleshooting I had also replaced my ground cable and the sensor, but determined at some point that it was not my problem at all. I replaced the battery and re-tested the charging system with the tech2 and everything was working normal again and haven't looked at it since.


the problem the bad battery created was the draw was more voltage/amps than the alternator was providing because the battery was saying hey it's all ok, but the actual draw was more than the alternator was putting out so it would drop to like 11v and be in economy mode when it should have been making 14v+

if you have wipers on full speed, seat heaters, headlights on, flashers on, radio, defrost on. all at the same time it sure as heck should not be in economy mode

Thanks for the insight. Are you aware of a way to test the clamp sensor? Where does that wire go?

As an aside, what kind of battery are you running?

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks for the insight. Are you aware of a way to test the clamp sensor? Where does that wire go?

As an aside, what kind of battery are you running?

the wire probably goes to the bcm but not sure to be honest @mikez71 probably has a diagram
I am running dual interstate agm's in parallel which are around 4 1/2 years old now, I expect they are at the end of there rope soon the cali heat kills batteries

 

[solli5pack]

Thanks for the insight. Are you aware of a way to test the clamp sensor? Where does that wire go?

As an aside, what kind of battery are you running?

I was wondering where do the wires from the little connector on the back of the alternator go? Are they definitely a component of the RVC system?