i had a 03 gmc 2500 HD, it used up the rear pads faster then fronts from new. took the same pads too front and back. calipers were huge front and back, but it was also my work truck. did 200 miles a day doing roof repairs, and lots of snow plowing, and pulled my 4,000 lb boat almost every sat...
do not drive the truck with the axel removed. it wont happen on the fist block of driving, but if you get on the hwy the front wheel will come off. i know to many ppl who tried this to limp home when they busted one. the damage is substantial. the end of the axel holds the hub together with out...
so about 3 weeks ago i started hearing the brake squealer or the pad when off the brakes, so i ordered up some new R1 pads front and back. ff to this week, i hear em squealing when on the brakes. so after working late all week and lacking the motivation, i finally got to checking things out...
if you can get your hands on a engine hoist that would be the easy safe way. lift one side of the engine up at a time and swap the mount.
floor jack and a 2x6 across the oil pan should work too tho. ive done the fwd 2x6 across the oil and trans pan to change the mounts as well. most of the...
well thats just messed up.... has this truck ever sat un used for a while? mice chewing wires, or just messed up wiring could cause this. worst case the pcm went bad, or maybe its plugs got water in it and corroded the pins in the plug.
take the rear rotors off, open up the e brakes via the star wheel till they are just fitting inside the rotor, aka get em good end snug. of course make sure all the hardware is still in place being they were just replaced.
tranny will hate you lol even if you add a cooler to it. id go and take the big one for a test drive, or one close to its weight and see how it feels.
back when i had my 03 gmc 2500 hd pick up id tow my 4,000 plus lb boat all the time. and you'd hardly know it was back there. my tahoe now...
hose clamps suck and should never be used on a trans line, ever.
you need to figure out the thread pitch and size on them barbs in the cooler replace them with AN fittings.
damn shes been used good.
look on ebay for used foam and seat covers. auto recyclers sell em when in real good shape. way cheaper then new stuff. the flaking dash parts, theres a spray paint called "SEM", it's made for car interior parts and works great. comes in many factory colors that are...
did it set the p0300? or it flash show as pending?
might be as simple as your way over due for a tune up. plugs and wires.
or maybe the crank sensor, when bad they dont always set a code. if the tack ever dropped to zero before it stalls out, crank sensor for sure. but thats what it does...
thats a leaking seal for sure. ive had seals that were old from sitting on the shelf for years leak on me in the past. you can see thats been leaking for a long while now. take it back have it addressed.
that heater code is related to the o2 not warming up on its own. so being you just did a engine swap maybe you got a blown fuse, bad ground. o2 wire harness got pinched. something out of place.
or that o2 sensor just decided to check out.
high octane modded 5.3
stock 53 high octane
i gained 4-5 mpg on this modded timing all local. running 93 only. if i ran 87 it got knock retard. trans is tuned too.
when timing file was modded and on 93 i got 10-12 mpg local. back to stock timing and 87 im seeing 6-7 all local. im not on...
your ac system is low. when low the compressor comes on and off.
sounds like a idler chirp. pull the belt, hand spin everything. if you dont see a belt diagram under the hood some where, take a pic of the belt on the truck. nothing like trying to figure out that puzzle lol
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