What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[strutaeng]

Last weekend I finally took the time to remove my windshield washer level switch on my 99. I hate to admit this, but several years ago I removed that switch and apparently installed it backwards without knowing it. Ever since, my low level appears on the message center when I filled the reservoir every time I started it. After a while of use, the message didn't show up.

I replaced the reservoir tank on my 06 Suburban because I have a persistent leak (which I still have!) and was going to use the switch on the 99. But I checked it and mine was good. So I reinstalled it but rotated it 180 degrees. I added a bit of RTV.

I also painted my battery tray since it was pretty corroded. I had painted the battery tray on the 06 when I did that. I'm guessing the battery acid causes this rust.

Anyway, no more annoying low windshield washer fluid message!

Regarding the switch: I think it should have continuity normally when there's fluid in the tank. As the fluid drops, the float causes the continuity to break. I compared the 99 switch vs the 06 and they are a bit different, but operation is the same.

 

[NoReverseYukon]

For those of you with dual batteries & a solenoid - Does this mean my solenoid is bad :

There is no key in ignition. I think it took a dump.

 

[clandr1]

For those of you with dual batteries & a solenoid - Does this mean my solenoid is bad :
View attachment 440247
There is no key in ignition. I think it took a dump.

I think it's potentially a bad battery. If it drops below 12.6v once given a chance to rest overnight, I believe it needs to be replaced.

 

[NoReverseYukon]

I think it's potentially a bad battery. If it drops below 12.6v once given a chance to rest overnight, I believe it needs to be replaced.

My thought was that, with the solenoid stuck in the closed position, the battery gets drained when the voltage jumps across the plunger contacts in the solenoid.

 

[clandr1]

My thought was that, with the solenoid stuck in the closed position, the battery gets drained when the voltage jumps across the plunger contacts in the solenoid.

Good thought, and definitely a possibility. With the key off, have you checked for continuity across the solenoid (when it should be open)? If there is continuity, there is your culprit.

 

[DRLexpress]

How about you are reading voltage of the other battery. I don't know but if both batteries "-" goes to ground and the solenoid connects the "+" then you are reading the other battery. Above continuity test will tell you.

 

[Scottydoggs]

so about 3 weeks ago i started hearing the brake squealer or the pad when off the brakes, so i ordered up some new R1 pads front and back. ff to this week, i hear em squealing when on the brakes. so after working late all week and lacking the motivation, i finally got to checking things out after work today. got the whole side of the truck in the air cause i wanted to rotate the tires too. get the front one off, damn pads are like brand new. could have sworn it was the fronts squealing, ok lets see the back, rears are down to 2mm thick riding the squealer. so changed the rears. then did the same on the other side, once again fronts look damn near new, backs were just gone.

i dont know whats up with Gm cars/trucks but every last one ive owned for the last 20 plus years with 4 wheel disks has always used up the backs first, but the fronts were always worn enough to just say f it and replace em. this tahoe just loves the rear brake bias clearly lol

truck stops great again. its funny how you dont notice how bad your brakes got as they age.

 

[ScottyBoy]

so about 3 weeks ago i started hearing the brake squealer or the pad when off the brakes, so i ordered up some new R1 pads front and back. ff to this week, i hear em squealing when on the brakes. so after working late all week and lacking the motivation, i finally got to checking things out after work today. got the whole side of the truck in the air cause i wanted to rotate the tires too. get the front one off, damn pads are like brand new. could have sworn it was the fronts squealing, ok lets see the back, rears are down to 2mm thick riding the squealer. so changed the rears. then did the same on the other side, once again fronts look damn near new, backs were just gone.

i dont know whats up with Gm cars/trucks but every last one ive owned for the last 20 plus years with 4 wheel disks has always used up the backs first, but the fronts were always worn enough to just say f it and replace em. this tahoe just loves the rear brake bias clearly lol

truck stops great again. its funny how you dont notice how bad your brakes got as they age.

My Suburban is the same way. My rear brakes definitely wore out faster than the front. But the front pads were still about 50%worn, so i went ahead and changed them. Fast forward about 7 years later, the rears were toast again, and the fronts are still less than 50% worn. Except this time, im feeling some pulsating in the front brakes, like the rotors are warped. So i plan on once again just replacing ALL of the brakes, pads and rotors front and back.

 

[strutaeng]

That's weird. My 99 Silverado went like 225k on the rear brakes. I had actually forgotten that they were ever replaced until I recently checked my maintenance records. I'm at 265k currently and the rear looks good. I did the third set of fronts at around 250k. Maybe different on SUVs? I haven checked my 06 Suburban rear brakes TBH since I bought it 4 years ago...

We have a 2013 Chrysler minivan and my wife kept telling me the brakes made some grinding noises, but mostly only when wet so I figured that was normal. It had around 70k. Well, one day I finally checked them and the pad was gone on one side, into the backing plate. I was kinda shocked because I was expecting around 120k like on my Silverado (doh!). The rear on that vehicle I replaced, but only because they dusted so much. All wheels still dust a lot, which I find extremely annoying because it's hard to keep the wheels clean.

 

[Scottydoggs]

That's weird. My 99 Silverado went like 225k on the rear brakes. I had actually forgotten that they were ever replaced until I recently checked my maintenance records. I'm at 265k currently and the rear looks good. I did the third set of fronts at around 250k. Maybe different on SUVs? I haven checked my 06 Suburban rear brakes TBH since I bought it 4 years ago...

We have a 2013 Chrysler minivan and my wife kept telling me the brakes made some grinding noises, but mostly only when wet so I figured that was normal. It had around 70k. Well, one day I finally checked them and the pad was gone on one side, into the backing plate. I was kinda shocked because I was expecting around 120k like on my Silverado (doh!). The rear on that vehicle I replaced, but only because they dusted so much. All wheels still dust a lot, which I find extremely annoying because it's hard to keep the wheels clean.

i had a 03 gmc 2500 HD, it used up the rear pads faster then fronts from new. took the same pads too front and back. calipers were huge front and back, but it was also my work truck. did 200 miles a day doing roof repairs, and lots of snow plowing, and pulled my 4,000 lb boat almost every sat and sundays weather permitting of course in the summer.