at the end caps of the wind shield cowl theres caps that lift up. dirt gets all clogged up under the cowl and can cause a leak at your feet on the pass side. i had a o5 work truck do this, i just hosed it out form both sides, never leaked again. there was also dirt and mud right inside them...
best to buy exhaust manifold studs, least set i bought might have been 30 bucks. they clamp the manifold on nice and tight, you'll notice how much more tq you can give them nuts vs then crap stock bolts. I got my last set at my local napa a few years back now. i brought a old stock bolt into the...
you wont notice a thing between conventional oil and full synesthetic.
in the end oil is oil. my last oil change i went to mobile 1 full syn, it still drinks some. still turns black. more importantly it didnt cause any oil leaks. iirc it was like 30 bucks 5 qt jug and a qt. buy it at walmart...
man sorry to hear. that pic of the collar in your hand brought me right back to having to put my dog down. sucks to carry in your best friend and leave with a collar and a leash.
still have them and his food and water bowls and all his toys.
valve seals have worn out on ya. pretty common with high miles. oil seeps past the seals lands in the cylinders and she blows smoke on start up after sitting over night or an extended period.
to change them you need to take the rockers arms off, shoot compressed air into the cylinder then use...
once you see the sides of the valve and the valve seat are both a polished match your all set. your pic looked perfect.
i closed the chuck on the top of the valve and pulled on it lightly. slow and light pressure.
sad part is i actually did a good job. that was for a blown 3800 v6 that i used a na bottom end with. most top swaps as they call it make 8 psi min on the stock blower pulley, i was making 6 psi. less boost= more flow. ended up putting 13 psi through it after a ic and a 2.8 pulley.
looks good to me. i went and used a drill to lap em in a older engine i freshened up. ported the heads too. something ill never do myself again. way to much work and time. id rather just pay for it.
scan them o2's in Mv "milla volts" if you can. volts will range from 1 to 8 and just bounce around, not a good way to read them.
both banks will never be 100% the same, but yours looks way off. they wont work right till the engine is up to temp too. why they have a built in heater, to speed...
what im trying to convey is i heard it making a spinning chipping sound, once you can get your head under there you should be able to hear if its the rear or trans case.
no need to pull the d/s. you just need someone to power brake it and while you put a ear to it. kinda sounds like the rear is blown to me. if the d/s spins and the wheels dont move its the rear. also hand turn the d/s back and forth, if its got lots of play well you know.
touch both heater core hoses. if they are hot hot like normal the sensor died, its a two part sensor, one 1/2 sends info to the pcm, the other to the cluster. if cold/luke warm the t stat is likely open.
today i was blessed with a rain day and some 45 degree weather, so i decided last night at some point today im doing a tune up. had the truck for 4 years now bought plugs and wires right after i bought it, it ran ok so i blew it off for years. with gas prices going up i figured no better time...
the fact you had it that long and even taught the kids to drive in it and there was something left to sell says you must have taken pretty good care of it. ive had something like 15 cars in my driving span and sold only 2 of them, the rest got ran into the ground or they blew up and got junked lol
i drive pretty much nothing but local so im at 10 mpg avg like all the time. and im not a light foot. im not wot from stops but im also not pus sy footing it, im first off the light and pulling away ever time lol
thats the cluster breaking on you. either find another cluster and send that one out to be rebuilt, or take the chance on your old one with a rebuild. you sign a odomitier statment tell them your miles on the old broken one and they will put your miles on the used one you send in if you go used...
ive seen vids of ppl using a cold steel chisel and a 3-5 lb sledge hammer, chisel goes on the edge of the nut and whack it hard. most of the time it take 2 -3 blows and its off.
loose terminals. theres normally a small ground to the fender off the neg cable. follow the neg cable to where its mounted. the cable could be bad too if you see bare metal showing and its factory, they do just go bad. under the truck theres two more grounds driver side under your feet near the...
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