I always use full synthetic--even on older cars. But both would work.
It really boils down to how much you want to spend. Full synthetic is better but more expensive.
Get the Airaid MIT and the dry (non-oiled) filter. It is probably the best setup (I think that is what BB found) and compromise with no fitment issues.
Sounds good as well!
I don't think so. 35 is an awefully big tire for no lift. With the pressboard material for a fender liner, you could just take it out or trim it? There are threads about trimming the fender liner for 305/55-20s with a level.
But I think a 32 or 33 is about as big as you can go with no...
If you change the ride height in the rear, you will need a longer or shorter rod. You don't change sensor location--just rod length. Usually leveling just involves the front end...?
Could be driveline, but it could also be alignment? My alignment was significantly off from the factory, especially toe. So my tires would feather across the tread. Rotating them would help for awhile.
I lowered mine and have experienced no vibration issues--after alignment.
Adjustable rear...
Bad batteries can exhibit these problems as well. With as many electronic systems today, if they don't get the proper voltage the car will go bonkers. My wife's Ford was acting a little flakey. Changed to a good battery and viola--no more issues.
The other place to check would be the CANBUS...
My '16 is as smooth as butter. Engine, transmission and ride are some of the smoothest of any vehicle I have owned or driven--and it has been quite a few.
I got the standard depth. Like it a lot.
With trans coolers you have to be careful you don't introduce too much pressure drop. On the 6L80 the fluid goes from the cooler to the bearings--definitely don't want to reduce the flow through them! The flat-plate or stacked-plate coolers are the...
If you are looking for some additional cooling and "heat soak", you can get a cast aluminum tranny pan--with fins. I put one on and it definitely helps some. It still heats up to the same temp eventually--as set by the thermostat (my gets to about 180F, BTW), but it takes longer (due to the...
I have a set of 5100s underneath a '16 Tahoe with a 3/4" drop on the front using strut cups--rides beautifully. I don't remember the number, but they are specifically for the '15 and up SUVs. You may want to search around on the net more...
Also, they were adjustable from stock to 1.6" lift...
Best I have found so far are the online sites. Like gmpartsdirect and others. A little clunky, but can help.
I don't think they make the "parts books" of old--or even cds anymore. Everything ia driven by the vin-which is kind of a bummer when you are looking to modify!
I agree fully. But my Tahoe was tapped for the bolts. Unscrewed the plastic pieces, remove the braces for the plastic pieces, and screwed these in place. Gives good piece of mind. Maybe its me, but it seems like it took out some "shimmy" over bumps as well.
A mild drop helps. Otherwise look at motorized AMP running boards (they go lower) or nerf step bars--I think n-fab makes adjustable steps for their nerf step bars.
Just call Bilstein tech. They were super helpful when I called. They can give you part numbers or tell you what size nut you need.
For me, I didn't like the flange nuts that came with the shocks, so I double-nutted with some gold cad plated M10x1.5 nuts.
But again, call them. They are helpful!
Depends on how much power is lost, etc...
When switching to 4hi you gotta turn more stuff--front half shafts, front diff, front driveshaft, among others. All this is more parasitic drag and thus takes more power to get going. It seems like you loose power, but in reality you gain friction.
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