2016 **SOLVED**Tahoe RF aftermarket amp sub sound issue

[Unit171]

Ive searched far and wide for an answer to this but I haven’t found the exact fix.

2016 Tahoe LTZ. Bose
I just installed an RF Prime 750 Mono amp pushing a 4 OHM DVC 12” sub. I pulled my line out converter signal from the top plug of the amp back behind the 3rd row seat.

At first the sub hit pretty hard and was great. Then I drove down the road and it almost sounded like it cut off. It hadn’t and was on as well as the amp.

Had to switch to my phone. iPad died....
Anyway the issue seems like the amp or sub is cutting off but the amp is still good/on (verified by light on remote and amp) as well as I can still feel a small bump on the sub.

Couldn’t figure it out, I adjusted everything on the amp and it just wasn’t producing any power like you would think that 750 amp would be on a sub.

I gave up and went to bed. So this morning I get in and drive off and the stereo comes on with the sub firing like it was in a car show! I’m like damn.... turn it down. Man it was great! 15 minutes of driving and when I got off the interstate and came to a stop, the bass stopped. I immediately start thinking the Bose system is attenuating the bass.

Once I start driving again it never returned. It only started hitting again after I left my vehicle for about an hour and returned later to drive home. Bass was back.

Bose attenuation?
Amp is not in protect mode.

Bose autopilot feature matter?

I’m lost and the small tastes I get of my sub then lose it is killing me!

 

[Kpwweb]

Probably the automatic noise cancellation feature? Get it programmed out and try again...

 

[NathanJax]

The Bose system does that. You'll need to bypass it to stop that

 

[Unit171]

I was wondering about that. My 2007 didn’t do that but I know This model is much more “intelligent “

Nathan,
Is there a harness to bypass and or something specific I need to look for?

Thanks guys. I hope that is it. It always works when I first crank the unit, but after 5-10 minutes it’s goes out.

 

[Unit171]

I just pulled the plugs on the amp that control the ANC and it didn’t do anything except kill the sound to the rear doors

 

[TechSupport]

Try turning off the Bose auto pilot. It changes the output based on your speed.

 

[Unit171]

I did that too. I’ve been searching the internet over trying to find the same issue. I’m not convinced it’s an ANC issue because I’m not getting the “feedback” problem.

It’s crazy, the sub hits hard for a while and slowly goes away as if it’s being attenuated.

I’m using the same signal lines as everyone else. Maybe the LOC is causing it

 

[Unit171]

I just went for a spin and the sub is booming. When I brake it attenuated the sub then came back when I released the brake. By the time (3-5) minutes had elapsed, the sub was completely quiet.

 

[Unit171]

So here’s an update.....I pulled the loc out and swapped in the audio control LC2i. So far so good.
I can only assume that the BOSE system is attenuating that bass roll off so much it was killing the signal to the basic LOC. With the sound processing LC2i, it boosts that line enough to keep the bass inputs constant.

 

[Unit171]

Welp...... the LC2i did NOT fix my issue. The system is still working some but then will roll out and off. I’m lost

I also only have one mic in my vehicle for which I cut the signal wire at the amp on the 3rd plug. Still no change