Search results
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Carpet gets moist Passenger rear
Your rear A/C condensate water is not draining properly. Lay down by your tailpipe and look above it to locate the drain that looks like a rubber wedge. Use some weedeater line to dislodge debris inside it and let drain. If you live in a very dusty area, this will be a recurring issue. -
NNBS brake job done - pedal not firm
Maybe user error with the power bleeder or malfunction. Maybe try the tried and true 2 man method always starting on the rr.- OneofFew
- Post #23
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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Interior lights
I just replaced the dome lights and now none of the interior lights come on. The puddle lights do. -
Spare Tire Age Question
You cannot trust an old tire like that, it is liable to go BOOM on you and tear up all sorts of stuff in the process. This is why you should try to find a spare rim also and get in the habit of doing 5 tire rotations. -
Wet carpet rr footwell- stopped up rear A/C drain
Most condensate drains will vent air out. -
Wet carpet rr footwell- stopped up rear A/C drain
If you have not made it a routing to check and unclog the rear a/c condensate drain, now is a good time. It is located at the rr corner of the vehicle about the exhaust tip. Look for the a/c hoses entering the cabin, look just infront of them for a black nipple and manipulate it. you can use... -
Rocker panel options..
I had found plastic rocker panel covers on Ebay. I did fix the holes in the rear wheel wells where water was getting in and cut out the rust and sprayed rust inhibitor. IDK if those rocker panel covers are still available, but they did fine for me. -
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Squeaky lower control arm bushings when cold
If I recall correctly- there are no wear points on the bushings. what you are hearing is the metal sleeve rubbing on the frame, probably not properly torqued.- OneofFew
- Post #8
- Forum: Lifted Supension - Z71 & 4x4
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Going back stock
Best idea ever. I never lift my vehicles since I have seen too many butchered and dangerous lift jobs.- OneofFew
- Post #8
- Forum: Lifted Supension - Z71 & 4x4
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Increase Brake Performance On '97 Tahoe Questions! I know, Redundant!
I do not understand how the dealer could not bleed the brakes and left it at that... I would remove that bleeder valve and replace it. Flush all the lines with good brake fluid. If you are pulling a heavy trailer, I would be looking at trailer brakes. As to upgrading the front brakes to larger...- OneofFew
- Post #9
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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FYI Parking Brakes
Theres a TBS on that and updated hardware. All that secures them in place is one clip, the shoe gets to move around a drag. The updated parts come with more hardware, but I could not figure it out, still have no parking brake at all.- OneofFew
- Post #5
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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Tracking down A/C issue
Whenever working on these and you know you have little or no pressure, I always replace both the low and high side service valves. Too many times they ended up leaking after charging r134. -
Trouble shooting help.
That clacking noise is the tensioner hopping on the belt and maxing out it's movement.- OneofFew
- Post #15
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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Weird Issue Hard To Explain
There is lots of info out there to diagnose these transmissions. Possibly 1-2 shift solenoid.- OneofFew
- Post #4
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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Much better oil pressure after oil change.
Thank you all so much. I did when I initially came to this forum and read of the Castechs check and I am pretty certain I ruled out that I have the effected ones. Will look closer again. I will try the tabs FrankU suggests and change the oil more frequently and retest the engine oil for changes.- OneofFew
- Post #50
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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Much better oil pressure after oil change.
I do not have the notorious 704 (?) castechs. I think it is 864's that I have. As minor as the coolant leak is given the overheating history (was missing the thermostat, had a clogged radiator and green coolant when I bought it and I had to tow it home), I would think if I had castechs, id be...- OneofFew
- Post #47
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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Much better oil pressure after oil change.
I appreciate your input! Mine does not seem to be as bad as yours was. Current mileage is 266k. I will check for air in the cooling system. I have been generally changing the oil every 5k with 10w30 or 5w30 synthetic. I do keep an eye on the condition of the oil up to the 5k interval. The oil...- OneofFew
- Post #46
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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Much better oil pressure after oil change.
I did pop one side off. I did not see anything disturbing.- OneofFew
- Post #44
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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Much better oil pressure after oil change.
Update: Oil analysis shows lead (15) from bearings and sodium(161) and potassium(47) from coolant. I have not been loosing any noticeable amount of coolant. I do have a lifter tap on cold start that gets louder when I raise the idle (at least I think it's a lifter tap) and get a 'low oil...- OneofFew
- Post #40
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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Much better oil pressure after oil change.
The reason colder climate oil recommendations are different is because of start up temperatures or do you disagree with that too? Also, there is no means for regulating oil temperature on these. The colder the environment, the colder the engine oil.- OneofFew
- Post #39
- Forum: Engine & Drivetrain
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HVAC Control Head?
I must officially announce that of the 6 vehicles I own, my '79 ford pickup is the most reliable. -
HVAC Control Head?
The 'mode door actuator' you have to rotate a little to line if up with the shaft it slides on and then trun it to where the mounts line up. The heater control actuator 'blend door' is easier to line up if you turn the blend door a little by hand. In both cases you have to make sure your... -
HVAC Control Head?
I am struggling with the same issue. Failing mode actuator would only go half way. The replacement did everything backasswards. vent in defrost mode, no movement in between, defrost in vent mode. I went through several calibration techniques I found and never would they actually go through...
