I'm running 285/70R17 with cranked torsion bars and Bilstein 5100s. I turned the upper bolts for the rear shocks around so the heads were on the outside. the rear inner liners kinda self cearanced. No rubbing anymore.
Ive seen him on youtube. If i did a SAS it would have locking hubs and no CAD. CAD with an LSD will still spin the driveline down the highway so kinda pointless.
Picked up the u-joimt after work today and got the driveshaft put together. It will probably need to be shortened but i'll cross that bridge when i get to it, IF this even works out.
U-joint companion flange arrived today, the included u-joint did not fit the drive shaft. Tomorrow I will go to Oreilys to pick up a Spicer 5-1204X (1.06 & 1.125 dia caps x 3.63 crosses, aka 1330SPEC or 1330 Ford)
Sorry, that was a typo. They are both 28 spline. I'll fix OP. Looking around the net, with a very few exceptions Axles and diffs have all the same spline "pitch". I'll know as soon as I pick up an 8.8 rear end.
Doing a little research I've found that the AAM 8.25 has 28 spline axles. Early Crown Vic, Ranger, and other ford 8.8 rear ends also had 28 spline axles. My plan is to narrow an 8.8, put 4.11:1 gears and a LSD in it, and stab some AWD AAM 8.25 axles into it. I've already picked up the AWD diff...
I'm using the 5100s because my torsion bars are cranked and the 5100s have a 2-2.5" lift option. Also it's what I saw recommended multiple places for cranked torsion bars. I had stock length, and 4" lift Ranchos that would limit out on either rebound or compression, so neither was right. These...
Felt like the front end was falling out of my '04 Yukon for the last year. Replaced wore our Ranchos with Bilstein 5100s. Also added a quart of MMO to the oil a few weeks ago. Lifter tick is is gone now after listening to it for the 5 years I've owned it.
Transfer case control module pin A2 is cad actuator, and transfer case control switch C2 pin A is ground. Trimmed up a piece of plastic and painted it black to mount a toggle switch to connect the two.
2Two years after the trasnfercase swap I've decided i wanted to rewire the central axle disconnect for full control. Now I have the option of 2lo for moving a trailer around or coming down a paved logging road with better engine breaking.
I would love to do a 6.0, but I dont think the 4L60E would love it with 3.73 gears and 33's. Also I would want to put a cam in while im doing it. Too much money for a guy living paycheck to paycheck. I could just drive it till it blows and do a bone stick 6.0 and TH400 i guess.
I have a lifter tick slowly getting worse in my '04 4.8. Looking at a Texas speed cam 2004 GMC Yukon TSP Stage 1 Low Lift Truck Camshaft (208/214, .550/.550, 112 LSA). What I'm wondering is if aftermarket cams are better than OEM for coming apart shedding metal from the lobes or whatever it it...
Sorry, I just saw your post a week later. Have you already done this? I would cut the wires and splice, then just leave the plugs disconnected from the amp. When I later removed my center console I discovered a subwoofer in there. I dont know how you would wire that aside from running a small...
OEM look is overrated. Newer trucks have OEM touchscreens anyway. I replaced a Pioneer touchscreen with an ATOTO Android unit. I bypassed the BLOSE amp and tapped power right off the fuse box. No courtesy timer, no chime, no nothing. Now I have a HU that just works, AND has navigation.
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