I didn't buy one since I have a pretty good amount of tools, but I have this part number saved as the socket for the sensor. if you pull the intake, you probably dont need it. but if you go in from the top, you definitely need a socket that fits.
j41712
is it just a 2 wire sensor?
if just 2 wires, you can definitely try jumping it with a thin wire that fits in the plug end before cutting up the harness. if it's a 3 wire, you might need to see the wiring diagram to see what it's looking for. sometimes a resistor is needed to simulate a sensor...
I'm curious if someone with low pressure would be brave enough to put the hybrid variable displacement pump in and see 40 to 50psi at all times ha. I mean the minimum spec from gm is 37psi at 1000rpm hot where the standard is like 7psi hot.
12623423 is the part number.
some info.
https://turboford.org/thread-using-ls-coils-as-wasted-spark#:~:text=LS%20coils%20are%20logic%20level,signal%20for%20the%20LS%20coils.
while you might be able to fire the coil in open air, you can't really test if they will fire a plug properly under load that's why it's standard...
sensors seem to be able to fail high or low. mine failed high the first time too.
most likely the sensor. in general it's recommended to replace with oem, either local dealer. something like gm parts direct or rock auto. but even those fail sometimes but less often than the cheap ones or the...
huh that sounds kinda solid.
I can't even guess. probably have to go thru the motions. pull the accessory belt off and see it for t goes away type thing
honks cause it's letting you know it's locking itself. there's a setting somewhere to turn most of it off. my 14 gm car honks a lot with everything off thou.
I mean I guess it could help the lifter as it's a failure point. but they fail in so many ways. even the non afm lifters seem fail sometimes.
still reeks of marketing and trying to justify 10$ quart of oil.
ahh if the gasket and the pan are new and you've done it right, I can only think it's the rear cover gasket(with the rear main in it, so both get changed anyways) that leaking. as long as it's not up high, like a valve cover or vlom/oil pressure sensor. that rear conver is all I can think of...
would it thou? I feel like that's more of a varnish building up from the pvc system drinking tons of oil thru the intake and not burning fuel to keep it clean like the other cyl. seems to me a catch can and fuel additives would be more effective on the stuck rings?
still unclear on what kinda...
do these come with the tech line software you can load on the pc and use it stand alone, or does it need to connect to a acdelco account to work for diagnostic stuff? I have other stuff that can program but don't have a good dealer level scanner for 2014 and up stuff.
honestly no clue, but the there's tons of threads about axle. swaps here. what did the axle come out of that you used?
as I understand it, at least mine has the speed sensor ton ring inside the axle tube. it's not put on the backing plate or anything. if your new axle housing doesn't have a...
maybe but I think that was more for the old composite gaskets. I've never had a issue with these new style. I do run the Dorman studs with lock nuts thou so I can tighten them without worry.
yeah that's them.. they are under the pan. the pan does have a rubber gasket, so that's nice it didn't need to be replaced. you will need to lower the auxiliary transmission fluid pump that in front of the pan for room to remove it thou. it's 4 8mm head bolts that tq at a very small number, so...
the rtv is where the front and rear plate bolt to the block, they leave a seam there that they didn't design the oil pan gasket to seal. the rtv gm uses is always kinda weak for some reason. it's not like old school black silicone rtv that will stick so hard you bend old tin pans getting it off...
the pan will come off without dropping the exhaust but you need to remove the auxiliary tranny fluid pump to do it. it's only 4 bolts, but it's a bit intimidating if you're not used to working in stuff.
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