Is This Camshaft Reusable? Or Too Pitted?

[jmo2610]

Exhaust leaks...
So I found exhaust leaks at both flanges and at holes 5 and 7 on the manifold. I am very positive that I torqued these to proper specs. Is there an order you're supposed to tighten these (not on the manifold itself), but between the flanges and the manifold. Like, does tightening the manifold first cause the pipes at the flange not to line up properly?
What should I be looking for to fix this. I don't see any visible cracks. It's like it's just not sealed properly.

I did also use a brand new gasket for the manifold.

 

[West 1]

When tightening anything that has multiple bolts like the intake or exhaust manifolds, heads etc you always want to bring the torque down evenly and never all at once. So if torque spec is 20 foot pounds maybe you first bring the manifold up till all bolts are snug then maybe torque to 10 pounds bringing the torque up evenly so the manifold does not distort. If you torque 100% at one end and then jump and torque the opposite end odds are you will bend or crack your manifold. Final pass torque it to the required 20 lbs torque starting in the middle and going back and forth till all bolts are fully torqued, finish with one more pass over all bolts to make sure the torque held on all bolts. You touched many parts doing this job. First thing to chase the issues is hook up a scan tool, find what sensors are reading wrong and go look at them. Disconnect the wires to that sensor, inspect and re connect making sure they are on proper and fully snapped into the lock. This double check usually gets Rid or odd codes. It is very easy to connect a wire and find out later it was not fully seated so not reading correctly.

 

[jmo2610]

When tightening anything that has multiple bolts like the intake or exhaust manifolds, heads etc you always want to bring the torque down evenly and never all at once. So if torque spec is 20 foot pounds maybe you first bring the manifold up till all bolts are snug then maybe torque to 10 pounds bringing the torque up evenly so the manifold does not distort. If you torque 100% at one end and then jump and torque the opposite end odds are you will bend or crack your manifold. Final pass torque it to the required 20 lbs torque starting in the middle and going back and forth till all bolts are fully torqued, finish with one more pass over all bolts to make sure the torque held on all bolts. You touched many parts doing this job. First thing to chase the issues is hook up a scan tool, find what sensors are reading wrong and go look at them. Disconnect the wires to that sensor, inspect and re connect making sure they are on proper and fully snapped into the lock. This double check usually gets Rid or odd codes. It is very easy to connect a wire and find out later it was not fully seated so not reading correctly.

Definitely torqued the manifold that way. It's even a multiple pass one, starting with 11 ft/lbs and 18 ft/lbs on the second pass. At least that's what my printout says. And the pipe nuts at the flange were 26 ft/lbs.

Scan tool has shown a P219B and P0010. Double checked the 02 sensor on the passenger side to make sure it was seated properly and plugged in fully. It was. Though had to remove it because I loosened the nuts at the flanges to try to re-seat and tighten them. Started raining here so I haven't re-tested.

 

[West 1]

So P219B, bank 2 air fuel ratio is off, rich or lean we don't know but it is not correct. P0010 says the Cam position sensor is not reading correctly.

The P219B says the passenger side of your engine air fuel ratio is off, simple things like a leaking exhaust manifold gasket or cracked manifold could be sucking air into the exhaust before it gets to your Cat and now your air mixture is off at the O2 sensor before the Cat. Try spraying some brake cleaner around the exhaust manifold and gaskets engine running and while watching your Scan Tool reading the active O2 sensor readings at bank 2. If you see the O2 sensor readings jump as you do this you know it is sucking the brake clean spray into the exhaust through a leak. Could also be a vacuum leak on only bank 2, or maybe an injector not firing on bank 2. One injector not hooked up gives you one totally lean cylinder pumping extra air into that banks O2 sensor giving you bad readings. Variety of possible causes.

The P0010, either cam sensor is not reading properly, not Hooked up proper or bad wiring? You installed an aftermarket cam? Is it set up to send a signal to the GM computer or is your new cam missing the ability to send the signal. I am not sure where the cam sensor reads on this engine, maybe it reads off the timing set? Maybe it reads a wheel on the cam itself? The computer is looking for a signal and not getting it.

 

[j91z28d1]

isn't there something about cam sensor when you us a non vvt delete cam? that's a difference pig tail and sensor?

 

[j91z28d1]

Definitely torqued the manifold that way. It's even a multiple pass one, starting with 11 ft/lbs and 18 ft/lbs on the second pass. At least that's what my printout says. And the pipe nuts at the flange were 26 ft/lbs.

Scan tool has shown a P219B and P0010. Double checked the 02 sensor on the passenger side to make sure it was seated properly and plugged in fully. It was. Though had to remove it because I loosened the nuts at the flanges to try to re-seat and tighten them. Started raining here so I haven't re-tested.

did you use the multi-layer steel gaskets? those seem to be the best. I've not heard much issues of ls manifolds leaking.

 

[jmo2610]

So P219B, bank 2 air fuel ratio is off, rich or lean we don't know but it is not correct. P0010 says the Cam position sensor is not reading correctly.

The P219B says the passenger side of your engine air fuel ratio is off, simple things like a leaking exhaust manifold gasket or cracked manifold could be sucking air into the exhaust before it gets to your Cat and now your air mixture is off at the O2 sensor before the Cat. Try spraying some brake cleaner around the exhaust manifold and gaskets engine running and while watching your Scan Tool reading the active O2 sensor readings at bank 2. If you see the O2 sensor readings jump as you do this you know it is sucking the brake clean spray into the exhaust through a leak. Could also be a vacuum leak on only bank 2, or maybe an injector not firing on bank 2. One injector not hooked up gives you one totally lean cylinder pumping extra air into that banks O2 sensor giving you bad readings. Variety of possible causes.

The P0010, either cam sensor is not reading properly, not Hooked up proper or bad wiring? You installed an aftermarket cam? Is it set up to send a signal to the GM computer or is your new cam missing the ability to send the signal. I am not sure where the cam sensor reads on this engine, maybe it reads off the timing set? Maybe it reads a wheel on the cam itself? The computer is looking for a signal and not getting it.

It's been raining here so I haven't been able to try the brake cleaner test. That's one I hadn't heard of.
As far as the cam, yes it's an aftermarket cam, and I replaced the timing cover to go with it, which doesn't have a spot for the VVT to plug into. So that plug is just tied up there, not plugged into anything. I was informed (seemingly incorrectly) that when you delete the AFM with a tune, that it also takes care of the VVT. That doesn't seem to be the case, at the moment.

 

[jmo2610]

isn't there something about cam sensor when you us a non vvt delete cam? that's a difference pig tail and sensor?

On the non-VVT cam and timing cover, there is nowhere for that plug to go. Not even a dummy plug. So currently it's just tied up with the rest of the harness.

 

[jmo2610]

did you use the multi-layer steel gaskets? those seem to be the best. I've not heard much issues of ls manifolds leaking.

I did. Loosened everything up, pipes included, and I'm going to replace the gaskets in there. Hoping that re-torqueing the manifold after it's been hot helps out that seal...?

 

[j91z28d1]

I did. Loosened everything up, pipes included, and I'm going to replace the gaskets in there. Hoping that re-torqueing the manifold after it's been hot helps out that seal...?

maybe but I think that was more for the old composite gaskets. I've never had a issue with these new style. I do run the Dorman studs with lock nuts thou so I can tighten them without worry.