Holy UPPER CONTROL ARMS!
What down-travel??
That is seriously good work but your front suspension is still very limited. You might want to look into clearancing that part of the frame or upgrading the UCAs to the Cognitos model pretty quick. 1 minor detail would be installing the Z71 model...
I misread this comment.
Was your last statement distinguishing between the original & the aftermarket? Or differences between various aftermarket producers? How many are there other than V that you are aware of?
@swathdiver
I didn't know Bosch makes the Tech2. I have been using the Bosch OBD1100 for the past 2-3 years & it has served me well. Back to pricing. The genuine or 'original' units are those legit priced @ $1.5k (used) $2k, $3k etc.
The $350 Vertronix knockoff that you have been referring...
the only 1 that I saw under $1k was via that link you posted a while back. They are the business though; I watched a YouTube video that a tech posted diagnosing 4WD faults.
There are a number of different things that will cause a 'service 4WD' fault. The dealer had to replace the encoder ring on mine because the 4WD wasn't lit up & didn't change modes when I took the truck for a test drive. From my research, the encoder sensor is most common fault. Next is the...
Depending on DIY or pro auto labor, you will have $500-$1000 in front end rebuild (steering/sway experienced) if the "pop/clunk" while turning is attributed the wheel hubs & not the ball joints, add another $250 or $500 also dependant upon DIY. Add new shocks (assuming this isn't...
that's why I don't put a lot of thought into shooting somebody. I have seen enough TV to know I would be in more trouble than the perp' who originally committed the offense against me.
Oh, & my father pulled his handgun on somebody a while back and spent like a year in jail for it. I do know...
What's it have? 245,000 km?
With a 20 year old truck that has a ton of miles and sat idle for over a year the coolant deal is prob only half the battle. All of the bushings are possibly dry-rotted, who knows about the brakes & steering linkage, shocks/springs all needs replacing. Seems like an...
If you don't go more than 1.5" you should be OK. They sell shock extenders or relocaters to move the shock up a couple inches. Either that or get longer shocks but you shouldnt run into problems with everyday driving. Off road is where you will notice the shocks bottoming out if too short for...
Oh I see. Ya, I also like to search online conversations and gather as much info possible before doing work on a make new to me. Smart guy. Most of the time your electronic braking system occurs above or outside of the master cylinder so nothing to be concerned with where you are working...
now you guys have me wanting to get a kit of Goodrich lines.
I think you just vacuum out the old brake fluid from the back, pass side caliper and begin adding new fluid just as the old fill reaches the bottom of reservoir. Continue draining until new, clear fluid is running out. After that you...
GM suggest using 80wt conv in the front diff because the vent valve & axle seals leak like a sieve. You will have to reg check the fluid level given what you filled it with. It's not a fail, everybody should keep tabs on their fill levels, you just have a good excuse to pull the fill plug once a...
Just to level. 37.5 all the way around. When I rebuild the back half I will need to go a little higher but it fits the 275-65-20 very well & im not about to create issues for the front end by lifting too far beyond the manufactured specs.
I have the exact same truck, down to the 3.73 g/r. just bought it back in April.
RpMs are correct.
You need to pump out your old transmission fluid via the cooler return line. Remove the pan, replace the filter & seal and bolt the pan back on with a new gasket. You can buy a kit with...
If he's done all of his own R&R it's possible. Remove the carrier from the rear diff housing and put it on a bench or a table wherever. Of course he would have to R&R the pinion gear there in the drive and set backlash.
The front axle assembly is removed from the truck & done on a bench as...
Different vehicle but had 1 bad wire & no 'CEL'
I found it when I was pulling the wires off of the spark plug end and a boot seperated from the lead...with minimal force. It was just degraded.
At the time, I found that it missed under high load, usually at the top of 3rd gear
If you are to stick a brand new bar on that DSide I'm confident you would level out nicely; new bars on both side would be better than new but I think they run over $300/Ea if IRC
And it must be the same bars as factory or you will have big problems. They made a wide range of bars for different...
They say it won't help unless you return them [torsion bar] to the same manufactured position. Unless you marked them, or locate the markings on PS bar & compare with orientation of markings on DS bar, that's about all you have to go on. The bars on my truck had some blue paint & letters/symbols...
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