Ya know, I heard a guy say one time that, even though GM put MAP sensors on MILLIONS of vehicles, that they’re totally not required. You should probably just take it to Pep Boiz and have them take it off and it’ll solve all your problems.
I’m not against replacing pulleys, but i’m more ‘for’ maintaining them before they go bad. I pull the seals and grease them when they’re new—there’s not much grease in there to begin with—and they last a LONG time with enough grease.
It could be. Take the belt off and give it a wiggle.
While you’re there, you can remove the pulleys and pop the seals off the bearings in the idler and tensioner pulleys with a pick or the pointy edge of a razor blade. Dab some grease in there and snap the seal back in place and reassemble...
‘07 should have a tensioner
If you’re changing the belt, do yourself a favor and pull the tensioner pulley, use a pick or the edge of a razor blade to pop the seal off, dab some grease in there and snap the seal back in place.
The billions saved via YouTube is offset by the helpful citizens of Facebook groups. People are constantly asking about stabilitrac or CEL and half the yayhoos suggest the part that fixed their issue. Original poster comes back the next day and says “welp... that didn’t fix it...”
There are almost an infinite amount of things that can cause a misfire on one cylinder—unless you just have money to burn, don’t use autozone’s suggestions for what you should buy. As someone suggested, swap it with another coil and see if the problem stays or follows.
So all the automakers have been putting MAP sensors on millions of non-supercharged vehicles all these years for nothing? I mean... they don’t use that signal to help determine load and adjust engine parameters or nuthin’? Are you sure about that?
When you do, pull all the covers they probably shouldn’t be going into and put love notes that say stuff like “what are you looking in here for?” “NO TRESPASSING” and “Surprise Muddafukka!”
I have a Range Disabler and will run it until the day the motor needs a rebuild, at which point I will replace the AFM components with non-AFM. Yes, I would purchase it again but I’d do it as soon as I bought it instead of after my first AFM lifter failure.
Do these engines have AFM? If so, #6 is an AFM cylinder and it could be the valves are gunking up as a result. I had the passenger head off my 5.3 for AFM issues (#4) and I could stick my finger into the intake port and there was sticky oily gunk collected on the short side of the runner just...
Sounds like you have fuel and AFM problems.
You can disable AFM with a range device, tune, or by physically removing the AFM components, which then requires a tune.
When you added the ground strap, did you clean that grounding point before attaching it? I’d probably check the battery, add another ground from the battery to your alternator grounding point, and try again.
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