Ok I've still been poking away at this. Here's what I've found. If I park the truck and lock the doors I see ~1.1 amp draw. If I use the FOB and unlock just the driver's door, the draw will go back to normal. If I use the FOB to lock the doors again the 1.1 amp draw comes back. So this...
Thanks for all the info @Fless !
I'm measuring with an inductive clamp meter on the negative battery cable.
I have an aftermarket head unit (Kenwood).
I've never performed a mV test, I'd like to know more about how to perform that.
Interior light function normally and radio shuts off...
Found my battery dead down to 4v after parking for a few days. I don't drive the truck a lot so it sits for a week or more a lot, but hasn't been an issue until recently.
First thing I did was change the battery. Now working with a fresh battery it happened again. I'm getting 1.1v current...
I'm having issues with current draw killing my battery and my cluster is suspect. I'm just going to go ahead and send it in for repair/rework since I have at least one light out and I'd like to see about adding a trans temp gauge.
Who does the best work? My coworker used an person on eBay...
Update and good news! I got to work on the brakes again today and after doing a manual bleed, ABS autobleed, and another manual bleed the brakes feel great again and I would say definitely better than when I started!
I had some errands to run around town today and the pedal firmness felt great...
Just ordered the damn scan tool lol! My mechanic says what I did should not have put air into the ABS system. I'm going to do a second bleed myself and figured why not just use the tool?
Again great info and I'm all for it! In this case I'm also in a bit of a time pinch and need my rig up and running asap. I may honestly look into one down the road though.
Another after thought... this issue may have been avoided by simply capping the disconnected hard lines with rubber vacuum...
Great info! For the amount I would actually use a tech II I don't think I'd get my money's worth. I'm just gonna call my mechanic and get it to them for a bleed and be done with it. Thanks again!
Good info thanks! Would this tool only be necessary if air somehow got into the ABS module or part of the ABS was serviced? For hose and caliper changes shouldn't I be good to go?
Yea it's not even close to feeling 'hard'. The power bleeder essentially does a pressure test at 15psi, I've checked all fittings several times and all look good. Might not be able to bleed until end of the week. I'll report back. Thanks!
Everything was topped up, but in my case I didn't touch the pedal until after the bleed. I did the rear axle, bleed, and test drive, then the front axle the next day.
I have a feeling things will improve after another 4 corner bleed.
Finally did a full brake job (front and rear) with new calipers, rotors, pads, and stainless braided hoses (all six). The fronts got changed to the larger 07+ calipers/rotors.
I bled the entire system refilling with fresh fluid. Test driving does not feel firm like I was expecting. I'm thinking...
I'm getting ready to buy calipers for front and rear brake job. I will be upgrading the front's to NNBS calipers/rotors. I have stabilitrak/active braking and I see listings for JL4 (active braking), do I need to use those calipers or can I use any listed for that model year?
Good info here! I don't want this to be time wasting headache. Thinking I may go back to the Russell hoses using their 5 piece kit, but only using the 4 caliper hoses. I can order two separate 18" Russell hoses with adapters for the 2 center hoses. Was hoping to find a good 6 piece kit, but...
I'm getting ready to install the 6 hose Goodridge stainless braided brake hose kit. The caliper lines will be easy. I'm concerned about the 2 rear center hoses above the diff/frame. I know the spare tire will need to be removed to get access. Are there any special tools needed to replace...
I was back and forth on going the NNBS upgrade route, but didn't want to shell out the $$$ on calipers. Was just going to stay stock and go with Z36 Powerstop rotors and pads.
After doing a lot of digging it looks like the Goodridge kit has been retrofitted to correct the previous issue with the 6 line kits for trucks with stabilitrak. Guess I'll give them a try.
Goodridge part# 14196 if anyone needs it.
I want to upgrade to stainless braided lines when I do a brake job soon. Which is the best kit for a 2006 LS with stabilitrak (Russell, Stoptech, Centric, Goodridge, etc.)? I've read some kits don't include all the hoses for the rear (5 instead of 6) and others report them not fitting correctly.
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