Thanks for the info guys. I'm leaving the car with a company that has a much better understanding of suspension geometry. When I pulled up they instantly noticed that my drivers wheel wasn't centred in the arch, it was much closer to the rear of the car so the caster is definitely waaaaay off...
Yeah I couldn’t get off my driveway without applying my brakes sadly. I didn’t trust consider removing the caliper and zip tieing a block of wood between the pads…but then decided against it
It was a US export so steering wheel is still on the left.
I didn’t trust the specs he was pulling up for the car so I gave him this:
Told him to swap the L/R caster settings and use the 4WD toe.
What I'm not sure of is if a rear right wheel will cause a pull left? I would normally assume it would pull right, but then with 4wd diffs and the like I wouldnt know if it could somehow have a reverse effect.
What I'd like to do is remove the caliper from the wheel and take it for a test...
I should probably mention that I'm in the UK so drive on the left and probably caster settings will need to be reversed?
So...full story... I purchased the car and from day 1 it pulled left. I assumed it was just alignment so I took it to get aligned. When they got it up on the ramps everything...
Wil do, it’s going back to the alignment shop today so they can keep it all day and take it on multiple test drives.
One concern I have is that because this truck is new to me and the steering wheel looks immaculate, could someone have replaced the steering wheel at some point. Installed it a...
My new to me 07 Escalade wants to pull to the left. If I let go of the steering wheel, the wheel will turn left on its own about 20degrees. If I hold the wheel straight, the truck drives straight.
I've replaced:
Upper control arms
Shocks & Springs (they needed doing anyway)
Tie rod Ends
Sway...
For anyone else in this situation, I binned the Arnott module and soldered a 25w 3.9ohm resistor on each of the suspension strut connectors.
Not sure why arnott wouldn’t take this simple and effective approach too as it works.
Its kinda a moot point anyway tbh, as even when I upgraded all of the wiring with 0/1AWG it's still making the noise :(
I'll try and find a diagram of all the main ground points on the car and clean those up, incase something else has corroded I guess :/
I don’t think 0 would be remotely possible. Even touching my multimeter probes together has 0.1 resistance. The 0/1 awg copper wire I purchased has a resistance too.
To go from alternator to battery it’s got to go through the alu alternator housing, alternator mount, engine block, thin gauge...
All of the accessories, tensioners and idlers have been replaced. If i remove the cable from the alternator the noise instantly stops. I’ve also done the stethoscope ‘trick’ by using a long ratchet exertion bar to listen. It’s 100% the alt.
That’s right…well kinda.
I never heard it through the radio until I was listening to an FM station that I drove out of range of. Then, through the static noise I could faintly hear it through the stereo.
Regarding the big 3, yes I kept the grounds going through the battery sensor thing. Tbh I...
I just removed my Z55 suspension and replaced it with an Arnott/Bilstien kit (C-3184). This came with a bypass module that taps into the OBD2 port. I've wired it all correctly and removed fuse #2 from the engine fuse box (as required in the Arnott manual), but I'm getting code U0122 popping up...
Bit of an update....I did the "big 3" upgrade using 0/1AWG wire and i think the noise has decreased. It seems to only whine (but at a lower level) for a few minutes at startup and then by the time I'm on the freeway its no longer noticeable.
I guess my question now is: Is everyone elses...
Ok guys I did some more testing today, and I'm still stumped.
* I sprayed water on the alternator pulley and belt. It didnt make any difference to the noise, making me less suspicious of the belt.
* Then I connected jumper leads (both + and -) direct from the alternator to the battery. No...
Yeah I load tested the battery, and have even run the car without the battery connected. If the alternator is whining because its under load, then its something other than the battery thats drawing it. I wouldnt think theres much in a car that could max out a 160A alternator, unless something...
The belt I’m using is a Bando 6PK2370, alternator is ACDelco 335-1196 and the idlers and tensioners are all ACDelco too.
In my original post the alternator shown is an WAI as I’d just swapped the ACdelco out for it. But now I’ve reinstalled the ACDelco.
I’ll get a video in a few hours showing...
I've been chasing down an annoying whine on my (new to me) 07 Escalade for about a month now. The whine is 100% alternator related, as if I disconnect the + cable from the back of the alternator, the whine goes away. The alternator also seems to be under stress as I noticed a fair amount of belt...
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