Call up autozone and have them pull out their ujoint cross reference book and look up the autozone brand cross for a 89040245 Ujoint. See if their answer matches what you have. Is the yoke that you jammed the cup through the one that has the joint sliding back and forth?
I went to autozone...
You knock the ujoint caps outwards, NOT inward and thats why you cant get the ujoint out the rest of the way. Use a wrench and quit sweating torque values on a ujoint. Ive never put a torque wrench on a ujoint shackle bolt and have yet to have a driveshaft spit itself out from under a vehicle.
You are confusing the ABS pump with the ABS manifold(also called a BPMV--Brake Pump Modulator Valve). The pump is in the engine compartment in the area below the master cylinder. The ABS manifold is on your drivers side frame rail and its the box looking thing that all the brake lines attach...
If you have a chime (a warning chime) then you should have a message on your cluster. Flahing or solid brake light on the cluster means you have a broken line, fitting loose, caliper seal leaking or air trapped in the system from improper bleeding procedure. The crappy pedal feel is a telltale...
Those value look perfectly normal for the mileage you have. What does the pressure goto when cruising at 55pmh? How about idle to 35 mph? Do you have a standard 3.73 rearend?
Try disconnecting plug at compressor and see if the RPM problem goes away. If so then I suspect you have a shorted (melted together clutch coil). Have automatic or manual hvac controls? Auto has the digital temp readout for driver and passenger settings.
Verify coolant temp with a IR gun. If its good then suspect bad sensor, temp gaueg or wiring issue to sensor. Have you been needing to add coolant to the system over the last 4 months or so? If so then you have a leak and likely have air in the system which can explain the gauge moving so...
Tranny bushing/bearing or Rear Diff/Axle bearing. Typically its one of the axle bearings but easily can be a Diff support bearing or pinion bearing. Gonna have to get it on a lift and find out.
Problem=Genius with the lift doesnt know that you cant run an AWD vehicle with wheels off the ground. The noise coming from your Tcase was your Tcase self destructing its viscous coupling and internals.
Stop driving a vehicle around with faulty brakes before you kill yourself or someone else. (They taught us this in our teens).
You will not be able to get a firm pedal once you have replaced calipers and master cylinder because air will be trapped in the ABS manifold behind its solenoids. The...
You never install a "pre gapped" spark plug. Always check them to make sure the proper gap is made. Workers and machines make mistakes, shipping is seldomly problem free and god only knows who has had those spark plugs in their hands before you (Returns).
Since its got AWD, you have a Borg Warner Tcase and they dont have the same pump rub problem that the 246E Tcase has. Sounds like you have clutches burnt up in your tranny. The shifting fine until warmed up is almost a dead giveaway. Pull your tranny dipstick. Smell it! Does it smell a nasty...
Very common failure after the dreaded dead spot in the TPS position trace within the TPS. Then comes the Pigtail plugged into the TPS (They make a replacement that you just splice in) and then finally the harness that plugs into the the TAC Module itself. All 3 of these will cause the dreaded...
You know at any OBD2 connector you can jump 2 terminals with a paperclip to turn on the fuel pump, right? Or you can use a bidirectional scanner if you have one to command the fuel pump on too or goto fuel pump relay and pull it and jump the 2 terminals at the socket that attach to the relays...
First check your fluid level and condition in your Tcase. The 246E Tcase commonly develops a pump rub in its rear half case and slowly leak its fluid out until its too low or bone dry. Do you have an Auto 4wd button on your dash?
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