03 GMC Yukon Denali Lift Kit

[HiHoeSilver]

Noob question, but I've never messed with a torsion bar or keys, I know that's the adjustable portion but how does it work to adjust the level?

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The front of your truck doesn't ride on conventional springs. The torsion bars are the springs. The ends on them are hex and indexed to create torque on the control arm. Think "twisting". The rear end is seated in the key, and the tip of the key is positioned by a bolt. As you tighten the bolt, it lifts the end of key and, in turn, "Twists" the bar, which puts more downward force on the control arm, lifting the front of the truck. The spacers are for the rear and are as simple as they sound. They will lift the rear of the truck by exactly how thick they are.

 

[Bxcliff]

Thanks i'll do some research then. I'm not looking for a crazy lift i just want to maybe be able to fit 33s later down the road and i've seen some photos of peoples tahoe/yukons leveled with 33s and it looked decent.

 

[Bxcliff]

I see, so prior to removing them to install the new ones, i should measure the length of the adjuster bolt so i can have the same position as before and i would tighten it accordingly to lift it the 2 inches?

The front of your truck doesn't ride on conventional springs. The torsion bars are the springs. The ends on them are hex and indexed to create torque on the control arm. Think "twisting". The rear end is seated in the key, and the tip of the key is positioned by a bolt. As you tighten the bolt, it lifts the end of key and, in turn, "Twists" the bar, which puts more downward force on the control arm, lifting the front of the truck. The spacers are for the rear and are as simple as they sound. They will lift the rear of the truck by exactly how thick they are.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I see, so prior to removing them to install the new ones, i should measure the length of the adjuster bolt so i can have the same position as before and i would tighten it accordingly to lift it the 2 inches?

Not necessarily.
1. You can certainly run 33s with a "small" level.
2. Measuring the bolts is kind of irrelevant. (maybe a decent starting point). Measure your wheel wells to the ground before and after. The lift keys are indexed differently than your stock ones. The strength of your bars, how fat you are, etc... All gonna play a role. Get the new keys in and measure the wheel wells again. Drive it a bit, it's gonna settle. Adjust it how you like it.
3. Decide how much you want to space up the rear.

GO GET AN ALIGNMENT WHEN YOU'RE DONE.

 

[05alive]

The kit is junk. Indexed keys can GDIAF, and it doesn't have new links for the autoride, so your autoride system is gonna be wonky.

Cranking keys is going to give you a bad ride anyways, and reindexed keys are going to make that even worse.
You could help the ride situation with new control arms, but even then you're still not going to solve the problem of your control arms having angles that you could race matchbox cars down.

I'd say get a regular lift kit and run it low but since you're AWD only showoff and full throttle make a kit, and it's over 3k (without shocks) because it needs a double cardan front driveshaft because of the awd front diff.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

The kit is junk. Indexed keys can GDIAF, and it doesn't have new links for the autoride, so your autoride system is gonna be wonky.

Cranking keys is going to give you a bad ride anyways, and reindexed keys are going to make that even worse.
You could help the ride situation with new control arms, but even then you're still not going to solve the problem of your control arms having angles that you could race matchbox cars down.

I'd say get a regular lift kit and run it low but since you're AWD only showoff and full throttle make a kit, and it's over 3k (without shocks) because it needs a double cardan front driveshaft because of the awd front diff.

Oh cmon Connor. You're gonna throw down to tell a new guy that he's screwed and needs to drop 3k to put 33s on his denali?

The only reason turning your keys a bit will be harsh is because you leave the jounce stops. Easily remedied with a pad on the LCA.

Angles won't be prefect, but if the goal is 33s, a little crank will easily get there without remotely getting into trouble.

The autoride point is fair, but also fairly easily remedied with a few options.

While the aforementioned kit is on the extreme end of "leveling" kits, and is probably not the best option, a $3k kit is definitely not the only viable option.

Please don't ever type the letters GDIAF again.

 

[05alive]

Oh cmon Connor. You're gonna throw down to tell a new guy that he's screwed and needs to drop 3k to put 33s on his denali?

The only reason turning your keys a bit will be harsh is because you leave the jounce stops. Easily remedied with a pad on the LCA.

Angles won't be prefect, but if the goal is 33s, a little crank will easily get there without remotely getting into trouble.

The autoride point is fair, but also fairly easily remedied with a few options.

While the aforementioned kit is on the extreme end of "leveling" kits, and is probably not the best option, a $3k kit is definitely not the only viable option.

Please don't ever type the letters GDIAF again.

I’m not telling him to buy a 3k kit. I didn’t when I was looking into lifting my truck because it’s stupid to pay that much money when you don’t want to go 6. I was just saying that’s the only option for real lift kits.

If he wants to fit 33’s he probably doesn’t even need a lift kit depending on the width. Crank stocks and maybe trim some interior plastic. Shock extenders and making some new autoride links will help the ride, but keeping it within a normal range is really what is going to keep the ride quality the best.


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[Bxcliff]

That makes more sense, I figured I'll install this kit while I'm replacing all my front end parts because I'm going to need an alignment anyway. This will def. help me out, thanks for all your help man.

Not necessarily.
1. You can certainly run 33s with a "small" level.
2. Measuring the bolts is kind of irrelevant. (maybe a decent starting point). Measure your wheel wells to the ground before and after. The lift keys are indexed differently than your stock ones. The strength of your bars, how fat you are, etc... All gonna play a role. Get the new keys in and measure the wheel wells again. Drive it a bit, it's gonna settle. Adjust it how you like it.
3. Decide how much you want to space up the rear.

GO GET AN ALIGNMENT WHEN YOU'RE DONE.

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[HiHoeSilver]

I’m not telling him to buy a 3k kit. I didn’t when I was looking into lifting my truck because it’s stupid to pay that much money when you don’t want to go 6. I was just saying that’s the only option for real lift kits.

If he wants to fit 33’s he probably doesn’t even need a lift kit depending on the width. Crank stocks and maybe trim some interior plastic. Shock extenders and making some new autoride links will help the ride, but keeping it within a normal range is really what is going to keep the ride quality the best.


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Fair enough.

That makes more sense, I figured I'll install this kit while I'm replacing all my front end parts because I'm going to need an alignment anyway. This will def. help me out, thanks for all your help man.

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I agree with Connor that keeping it as close to stock as you can is going to be best. He also makes a good point about the width of your tires. That's a huge part of how high you really need to go to fit them. I would look for a 2.5/1.5 kit at the biggest of it were me. Read a bit about how to deal with the auto ride issue, too.

 

[Bxcliff]

The kit is junk. Indexed keys can GDIAF, and it doesn't have new links for the autoride, so your autoride system is gonna be wonky.

Cranking keys is going to give you a bad ride anyways, and reindexed keys are going to make that even worse.
You could help the ride situation with new control arms, but even then you're still not going to solve the problem of your control arms having angles that you could race matchbox cars down.

I'd say get a regular lift kit and run it low but since you're AWD only showoff and full throttle make a kit, and it's over 3k (without shocks) because it needs a double cardan front driveshaft because of the awd front diff.

Autoride system in my truck has been shot for years and replaced all my shocks with gas shocks and removed the oem air compressor. I also have new upper and lower control arms with balljoints etc.

I looked at that lift kit also but the amount of money I would pay for that, i feel i might as well buy a proper 4wd in the near future like a duramax or a regular 1500 Sierra and put that money towards a proper 6 inch lift which isn't that far of a price range for that level kit for my Denali.

To me it just isn't worth that much to spend that on my Denali that's why this level kit I found suits what I need


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