04 5.3L Trottle Body Oil-yum

[ezdaar]

Silverstars pic shows the bypass mod with a male to male fitting. but you can simply pull the long hose over.
Don't know why I didn't see that when I posted my response above.

While your in there, go ahead and pull the intake, clean it completely out with berreymans B-12.
You can clean the intake ports on the heads as well by using a air compressor to flash dry the B-12 then use a shop vac to suck our the now loose dry carbon from the ports and have a nice clean intake track.

Replace knock sensors, re-tap the rear with a blind tap to clean the rust/corrosion out.

Finally install a oil catch can, to stop all that oil from making its way back into your intake

 

[Silverstar]

As said Justinlaw, "That's your fuel pressure regulator, and should be connected to manifold vacuum" and I agree with him
...but...
maybe someone has transformed the fuel system ?
I found this site where show of this modification:
http://www.autorepairinstructions.com/?cat=41

p.s. my english is ORRIBLE , I apologize

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Typical mod is to bypass the throttle body with the coolant line.

The long hose from radiator, plug it into the nipple the little hose is connected to. Discard small hose.

Not sure if this will work but you could also try just plugging the radiator nipple with a vacuum cap that fits tight and plugging the manifold nipple as well. I bought a new long hose (25.00) and a new small hose (6.00). I too thought about by-passing it.

 

[ezdaar]

Do not use a vacuum cap, its not rated for the heat or pressure of the coolant, it will burst.

 

[justinlw]

Aside from a vacuum cap not holding up, that hose is there for a reason. Even if you bypass the TB, be sure that it remains connected to the head and radiator.

The top of the heads are the high point in the cooling system, so this hose effectively bleeds trapped air back to the radiator, then the reservoir where it belongs.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Do not use a vacuum cap, its not rated for the heat or pressure of the coolant, it will burst.

There is not much pressure on that hose being such a small diameter. I plugged it after I took the old one off before replacing it with a new hose. The cap worked great to keep it from leaking while I searched for a new one. I guess no one replaces them as I had to order it because no one had them in stock.

 

[Maic]

Silverstars pic shows the bypass mod with a male to male fitting. but you can simply pull the long hose over.
Don't know why I didn't see that when I posted my response above.

While your in there, go ahead and pull the intake, clean it completely out with berreymans B-12.
You can clean the intake ports on the heads as well by using a air compressor to flash dry the B-12 then use a shop vac to suck our the now loose dry carbon from the ports and have a nice clean intake track.

Replace knock sensors, re-tap the rear with a blind tap to clean the rust/corrosion out.

Finally install a oil catch can, to stop all that oil from making its way back into your intake

I'll just pull the hose over next time im in there. Thanks for the input on the intake cleaning and knock sensors. I keep stumbling across the "oil catch can", guess i have some more homework to do.

As said Justinlaw, "That's your fuel pressure regulator, and should be connected to manifold vacuum" and I agree with him
...but...
maybe someone has transformed the fuel system ?
I found this site where show of this modification:
http://www.autorepairinstructions.com/?cat=41

p.s. my english is ORRIBLE , I apologize :bang head:

Thats the same thread i found, searching the www. Thanks and ill give a few updates below.

Aside from a vacuum cap not holding up, that hose is there for a reason. Even if you bypass the TB, be sure that it remains connected to the head and radiator.

The top of the heads are the high point in the cooling system, so this hose effectively bleeds trapped air back to the radiator, then the reservoir where it belongs.

Good point. Never even crossed my mind to just 'block it off'. smile


Note on the Vacuum hose : I went and bought some vacuum hardline with connectors and just run a new Line across the intake to the passenger side. While doing this, i cleaned the the TB, MAF, replaced the broken connector to the Temp Sensor, greased the MAF connector and the TB connector. Someone installed an newer style TB and crimped the cables. Then taped them all together. So it took this apart and found that some straight connectors where crimped so much that the insulation was damaged and the metal sleeve exposed. So, i taped each cable individually and then taped them together.
Just for now, when get to clean the intake ill solder all the cables and get rid of the straight crimp connectors. Anyway' i had the famous "Reduced Engine Power" what appears to be gone. Have 3 days now driving cross town w/o any problem. Knock on Wood.! Plan for this weekend is to do the MSD spark plug wires and TR55 plugs, down gapped to 40. Have a long list with 'things to do', some parts i have, others are on the way. For now, i just keep my fingers crossed that the Reduced Engine Power doesn't come back.
Thanks for all your help.

 

[justinlw]

Why not just buy TR5's, already gapped at .040?

 

[Maic]

Why not just buy TR5's, already gapped at .040?

To easy.

 

[Z-56 Hoe]

To easy.

Lol. The hard way