Yes. That would allow it to restart. Also holding the pedal to the floor and cranking for up to ten seconds would also do it.
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'07 Denali hot stall?
- Thread starter cvdaddy
- Start date
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In my case it was the cam position and cam solenoid sensors. I replaced these about a week after that post to you and haven't had the issue since *knocks on wood*
Lucky you. I replaced those too and it did nothing. You must’ve been that rare occasion where an electrical component was failing but never tossed a code!! Glad it worked out for you. So many of these people that have this issue just disappear and there is never any resolution for others to troubleshoot from.
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Well it never caused a check engine light but I hooked up my tech2 and found 2 codes: p0523 for oil pressure sensor voltage high and p0341 for cam sensor performance. You're very right that people usually don't post how or if their issue was resolved.
I am 3rd one after Warriorpluto and vettes980, the symptom in this thread is mostly related to transmission shift, stuck torque converter solenoid or other speed shift solenoid, except "N".
The following solution may apply:
1) Install an external auxiliary transmission cooler
2) Drop transmission pan, replace filter and ATF fluid with synthetic one.
3) Add ATF modification, like vettes980 did, or use Lube Guard ATF Protectant
4) Expensive venue, drop the pan and replace solenoids
5) Drive like manual stick, shift into "3" gear before stop, manually force releasing solenoid.
The similar issue happened among 2009 Dodge/Chrysler minivan, the engine stalled after getting off hi-way and at at stoplights. There was a TSB issued to replace solenoid pack.
Similar symptom threads:
2007 Denali hot stall:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/07-denali-hot-stall.26430/page-3
2007 GMC Denali stalls after towing:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2007-gmc-denali-stalls-after-towing.73312/
Stalled out:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/stalled-out.117045/
The following solution may apply:
1) Install an external auxiliary transmission cooler
2) Drop transmission pan, replace filter and ATF fluid with synthetic one.
3) Add ATF modification, like vettes980 did, or use Lube Guard ATF Protectant
4) Expensive venue, drop the pan and replace solenoids
5) Drive like manual stick, shift into "3" gear before stop, manually force releasing solenoid.
The similar issue happened among 2009 Dodge/Chrysler minivan, the engine stalled after getting off hi-way and at at stoplights. There was a TSB issued to replace solenoid pack.
Similar symptom threads:
2007 Denali hot stall:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/07-denali-hot-stall.26430/page-3
2007 GMC Denali stalls after towing:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/2007-gmc-denali-stalls-after-towing.73312/
Stalled out:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/stalled-out.117045/
I had the hot stall issue when coming to a stop. Mine was the transmission, I added a bottle of this stuff and it corrected my issue. I’m now planning on a trans service and another bottle of this oil and see how long it takes me. I chased this problem for three months. No codes ever on my 07 Denali. Replaced crank and cam sensor, fuel pump and VVT solenoid and none of it worked until my local trans shop suggested the oil
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I hope this helps some of you...
Ok people. Here it is. The REAL PROBLEM for me and most likely for 90% of you out there is this!!!
Bit of background. I’m a licensed tech in Canada 21yrs. Experience. Worked at Dealerships for 17 years including GM for 4yrs.... anyway....
My truck: 2007 Denali: 6.2L - 6L90 trans. 385,000km ( 240,000 miles )
First, my symptoms: random stalling/ NO RESTART after towing/HOT. Then after awhile random stalling NOT TOWING, turning left/right etc...
At first wasnt setting any codes other than a random shift solenoid code in trans. Then later on setting low oil pressure code P0521. ( prob have cracked o-ring on oil pick up tube )
Tried new fuel pump relay and thought I had fixed it... nope. Then replaced fuel pump w/ ACDELCO unit... thought it was good... nope.
THEN TRIED: cleaning battery connections, clean 175A fuse connections on pass firewall, checked PCM pins for backing out/ added dielectric grease to help prevent “ fretting” as/per GM TSB, removed underhood fuseblock/ JUNCTIONBLOCK, checked all pins in base mounted connectors/ looked good/ applied dielectric grease to all, added trans “ medic” additive to trans fluid, test drove to get trans to oper. temp. then serviced trans. using proper fluid ( this is to address the issue related to suspected TCC CLUTCH/ solenoid/ valve sticking ) I didn’t suspect this because when that happens you get a noticeable LURCH/Bucking when Yukon stalls out and I think most people ( including me ) aren’t getting the lurching/ stalling.
ALSO added GUNK ENGINE FLUSH and 1L ATF ( atf in engine crankcase is a great cleaner because atf contains lots of detergents ) to crankcase to flush engine lube system. This was to address possible VCT valve/ phaser sticking causing stalling after coming to stop from hwy. speed/ heavy loaded condition. Serviced engine w/ 0w40 Mobil 1...
DID ALL OF THIS IN ONE NIGHT... because I didn’t have time to mess around doing it one at a time to see what fixed it... ANYWAY... NOTHING WORKED. Drove for long test drive at high speed, seemed ok, thought it was fixed, wife was driving it two days later in stop and go traffic and it stalled again.
This time ENGINE POWER REDUCED MESSAGE AND ENGINE OVERTEMP. MESSAGE CAME ON IN CLUSTER.
So then I finally broke down and fixed what I suspected to be the REAL problem all along but is really EXPENSIVE!!
Faulty underhood fuse block w/ integrated PCB ( printed circuit board ). Circuit board cracks, and various circuits open up when underhood TEMPS get HIGH!!
Costs $850+tax at the dealership in Canada. Will cost you about $600 in the U.S.
Replaced this and haven’t had any problems since then.
Have had TONS of issues which these while working at the GM dealer but didn’t want to try it first since they are pricey $$$.
Fixed stalling issue and reduced power message etc...
I think this is probably the problem for most of you guys... I Hope this helps someone.
Ok people. Here it is. The REAL PROBLEM for me and most likely for 90% of you out there is this!!!
Bit of background. I’m a licensed tech in Canada 21yrs. Experience. Worked at Dealerships for 17 years including GM for 4yrs.... anyway....
My truck: 2007 Denali: 6.2L - 6L90 trans. 385,000km ( 240,000 miles )
First, my symptoms: random stalling/ NO RESTART after towing/HOT. Then after awhile random stalling NOT TOWING, turning left/right etc...
At first wasnt setting any codes other than a random shift solenoid code in trans. Then later on setting low oil pressure code P0521. ( prob have cracked o-ring on oil pick up tube )
Tried new fuel pump relay and thought I had fixed it... nope. Then replaced fuel pump w/ ACDELCO unit... thought it was good... nope.
THEN TRIED: cleaning battery connections, clean 175A fuse connections on pass firewall, checked PCM pins for backing out/ added dielectric grease to help prevent “ fretting” as/per GM TSB, removed underhood fuseblock/ JUNCTIONBLOCK, checked all pins in base mounted connectors/ looked good/ applied dielectric grease to all, added trans “ medic” additive to trans fluid, test drove to get trans to oper. temp. then serviced trans. using proper fluid ( this is to address the issue related to suspected TCC CLUTCH/ solenoid/ valve sticking ) I didn’t suspect this because when that happens you get a noticeable LURCH/Bucking when Yukon stalls out and I think most people ( including me ) aren’t getting the lurching/ stalling.
ALSO added GUNK ENGINE FLUSH and 1L ATF ( atf in engine crankcase is a great cleaner because atf contains lots of detergents ) to crankcase to flush engine lube system. This was to address possible VCT valve/ phaser sticking causing stalling after coming to stop from hwy. speed/ heavy loaded condition. Serviced engine w/ 0w40 Mobil 1...
DID ALL OF THIS IN ONE NIGHT... because I didn’t have time to mess around doing it one at a time to see what fixed it... ANYWAY... NOTHING WORKED. Drove for long test drive at high speed, seemed ok, thought it was fixed, wife was driving it two days later in stop and go traffic and it stalled again.
This time ENGINE POWER REDUCED MESSAGE AND ENGINE OVERTEMP. MESSAGE CAME ON IN CLUSTER.
So then I finally broke down and fixed what I suspected to be the REAL problem all along but is really EXPENSIVE!!
Faulty underhood fuse block w/ integrated PCB ( printed circuit board ). Circuit board cracks, and various circuits open up when underhood TEMPS get HIGH!!
Costs $850+tax at the dealership in Canada. Will cost you about $600 in the U.S.
Replaced this and haven’t had any problems since then.
Have had TONS of issues which these while working at the GM dealer but didn’t want to try it first since they are pricey $$$.
Fixed stalling issue and reduced power message etc...
I think this is probably the problem for most of you guys... I Hope this helps someone.
