07 Yukon Oil Consumption, making progress?

[Clean07Burb]

It is the 5.3, and I am hoping to get a lot more miles out of it. They are great trucks.

I hope you have similar luck with yours. The only concern I'd have is if the truck is a higher mileage unit, will that make a difference.

I do think that multiple approaches are necessary to reduce consumption. In my simple mind, I am assuming that it starts with the rings getting sticky and allowing oil to get past and into the cylinder, but also that blowby is increased resulting in the higher oil spray and vapors through the pcv. So, stopping the AFM, trying to unstick the rings (if that is even possible without a ring job), catching the excess vapors, and cleaning the intake, valves and cylinders with a few detergents should help consumption and longevity. At least that is my approach to this!

So far, I am stoked with the progress so far!

Yup. I'm also gonna Seafoam the motor through the vacuum line off the booster. Hopefully that coupled with the motor flush will help clean the majority of the carbon and sludge out of the motor. We'll see how everything goes.

 

[Vgreid]

Yup. I'm also gonna Seafoam the motor through the vacuum line off the booster. Hopefully that coupled with the motor flush will help clean the majority of the carbon and sludge out of the motor. We'll see how everything goes.

I use Seafoam in the gas cans for my power equipment and run it through my motorcycle once or twice a year, all with great results. But using it through the booster? I assume you are unplugging the brake booster and what, sticking it in the seafoam can to suck seafoam into the intake? Is that to clean the intake manifold or valves or both? I hadn't heard of that.

I can imagine my intake manifold is full of oil residue and buildup. This might be the way to clean it?

 

[992dr]

A member posted this quick video of a sea foam treatment.
There's another way to do it through the intake, not sure how though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dlRrmS_S4-4

 

[08grey]

We have a member here that used a mix of motor medic and risolene treatment to fix his oils pressure issues. I think seafoam is kinda harsh and not proven to fix anyone's oil consumption issues.

 

[Clean07Burb]

I use Seafoam in the gas cans for my power equipment and run it through my motorcycle once or twice a year, all with great results. But using it through the booster? I assume you are unplugging the brake booster and what, sticking it in the seafoam can to suck seafoam into the intake? Is that to clean the intake manifold or valves or both? I hadn't heard of that.

I can imagine my intake manifold is full of oil residue and buildup. This might be the way to clean it?

You just unhook your vacuum line from the booster and SLOWLY pour the Seafoam in through that line. You'll see a TON of white smoke pour out of the exhaust and that's supposed to be all the carbon burning out of the motor. Who know's if it actually works, but I've done this to a million vehicles without any I'll effects, so I guess if anything its not doing any harm. Today I purchased a can of Seafoam aerosol which you spray directly into the throttle body with the motor running and the RPM's increased by about 1k over idle. This way I can guarantee its feeding all cylinders, which I cannot guarantee using the vacuum line method.

We have a member here that used a mix of motor medic and risolene treatment to fix his oils pressure issues. I think seafoam is kinda harsh and not proven to fix anyone's oil consumption issues.

I'm not using it to correct oil consumption issues. I'm using it for its intended purpose which is to clean carbon buildup from the top end of the motor. GM also sells a top end cleaner which has an ingredients list almost identical to that of Seafoam's. I'm curious what you think is "harsh" about a Seafoam treatment? I'm not judging your opinion, just asking what you're basing it on.

And the member you're speaking of is 07Burb. He says, in his opinion, he corrected his intermittent low oil pressure problems by using a quality motor oil and a K&N filter after an unknown filter and synthetic blend oil was used twice in a row during oil changes. He also added a quart of RISLONE oil additive. Prior to switching back to the good oil and K&N filter, he flushed the engine with GUNK branded MOTOR MEDIC engine flushing agent. RISLONE is a great additive that has been around for years. It helps to free sticking rings, lifters, and has some other benefits, too.

 

[Vgreid]

All I can say is WOW!!! I was only hoping to help manage oil consumption, but it now seems that the oil consumption has COMPLETELY STOPPED!!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpF72tUXW5w

1000 miles into this oil change, which includes 400 miles of heavy towing, and NO OIL USAGE so far!! This is also 5500 miles since I started with the Range AFM Delete and a round of Auto-RX in the oil as well as a couple of rounds of Techron in the gas tank.

Not that much in the catch can (installed at the time of last oil change, already checked and emptied at 300 miles), but (and I am assuming) that if the rings are now getting cleaned up, not causing blowby, then PCV vapors will be reduced. The catch can stays! I am thinking I will get one for my 2014 Impala due to carbon buildup on DI engines from the PCV.

The Yukon towed great as well, engine temps stayed in line even though it was a hot day, and it spent about 90% of the time towing just fine in 4th gear, both down and back for the trip. Recent years, it would hunt so much that I would often just leave it in 3rd. Temps would often rise and it would run hot unless I backed off and slowed down. (I guess it makes sense that an engine with poor rings and blowby, carbon and gunk buildup would run hot right?)

So, what I have learned is that AFM related oil consumption can be addressed, cheaply and without cracking open the engine. Obviously, ymmv, but do:
- disable AFM
- install a catch can
- use an oil treatment to try to free up the rings
- use a gas treatment to clean the upper cylinders and valves
- run it all in for a few thousand miles (don't expect an overnight fix)

Just what I have found and wanted to share for others having similar issues.

 

[Vgreid]

Just an update, 3,000 miles in on this oil change (job change and not putting as many miles on it since our road trip this summer) and it was down only by about a half quart. I was previously using that in 500 miles, so I am still very happy with the progress.

Here is the result from the catch can over this period. So, the engine is not burning all that half quart, and the catch can is doing a great job in preventing the crap from being ingested back into the intake. Probably about 2oz is my guess.

I didn't take a picture of it, but when I did the last oil change, I cleaned out the oil cap, which was quite filthy and crusty at the time. Now, since the 3,000 miles on this change, the oil cap is still perfectly clean and dry. All good signs I guess.

Also, still loving the Range AFM delete, engine runs like a champ!