1/2 ton to 3/4 ton

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962door

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I e got a 96 2 door Tahoe and over drive just went out. I've got a donor truck that's a 98 2500 ext cab long bed. I'm wanting to swap the whole drive train from the front diff to the back diff. I know I can get the 14 bolt to bolt in. I think I can make it work but I'm look for some clarification on this. Will the front diff be able to bolt in? What all will I need to do this swap and is it worth it? Also what will I need for the 4l80e swap and will the transfer case bolt in? Need some help! Thanks for your time

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drakon543

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They also have an ifs.
I think everything should fit with minor work and modifications if any are necessary. It will be a bit tighter to work under there tho. The front diff is noticeable bigger on the ones ive looked at.
 
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962door

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That's what I'm most afraid if the front ifs diff. And also will i need to send my computer off for the transmission?
 

Rob Scariano

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That's what I'm most afraid if the front ifs diff. And also will i need to send my computer off for the transmission?

I am in the process of doing "all of this" myself.

To start, the absolute most important thing you can do is swap the 10 bolt rear diff for a 14 bolt. During this time, it would also behoove you to go ahead and add disc brakes in the rear. There are plenty of 14 bolt 6 lug axles out there w/rear disc brakes.

Believe it or not, the 1500 front IFS isn't really a weak point in our trucks. It can take "quite a beating". So before taking the time and energy to swap it out "just because", I would put your money elsewhere.

The two most important changes you can make are:

1. Rear axle change 10 bolt to 14 bolt.

2. Transmission upgrade.

On the transmission, yes the 4L60 is really weak for high hp/torque applications. But, you can go to different routes which will save time and money.

1. Rebuild/upgrade it to 4L65
2. Buy a new upgrades tranny from Road Ripper or Monster Transmissions.

I personally would not put a used 4L80 in the truck. Not because it isn't a good transmission, but you don't truly know how well it was taken care of. With that said, it can be done, but by the time it takes and the money you spend doing it, your almost to the point of a new upgraded 4L60/4L65.

I've been on the fence on wether or not to put a 454 or stroked out 502 in my 2 door. After tons of research, I'm going with a 400HP 383 Stroker, which the computer will run, an upgraded 4L60 from monster transmission, 14 bolt axle. That's as close as I plan to go with a beefed up drivetrain. Hope this helps. At the end of the day, it's all personal preference but I thought I'd share my two cents. Good luck
 

bartonz

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I am in the process of doing "all of this" myself.

To start, the absolute most important thing you can do is swap the 10 bolt rear diff for a 14 bolt. During this time, it would also behoove you to go ahead and add disc brakes in the rear. There are plenty of 14 bolt 6 lug axles out there w/rear disc brakes.

Believe it or not, the 1500 front IFS isn't really a weak point in our trucks. It can take "quite a beating". So before taking the time and energy to swap it out "just because", I would put your money elsewhere.

The two most important changes you can make are:

1. Rear axle change 10 bolt to 14 bolt.

2. Transmission upgrade.

On the transmission, yes the 4L60 is really weak for high hp/torque applications. But, you can go to different routes which will save time and money.

1. Rebuild/upgrade it to 4L65
2. Buy a new upgrades tranny from Road Ripper or Monster Transmissions.

I personally would not put a used 4L80 in the truck. Not because it isn't a good transmission, but you don't truly know how well it was taken care of. With that said, it can be done, but by the time it takes and the money you spend doing it, your almost to the point of a new upgraded 4L60/4L65.

I've been on the fence on wether or not to put a 454 or stroked out 502 in my 2 door. After tons of research, I'm going with a 400HP 383 Stroker, which the computer will run, an upgraded 4L60 from monster transmission, 14 bolt axle. That's as close as I plan to go with a beefed up drivetrain. Hope this helps. At the end of the day, it's all personal preference but I thought I'd share my two cents. Good luck
Mind if I ask what 383 motor you are referring to? Ht383e?
 

Rob Scariano

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Mind if I ask what 383 motor you are referring to? Ht383e?

The HT383 is a well built engine but it's really designed for extra towing power. Hence the lower compression. I'm going with something a little more radical. I don't tow with mine and I never will. With that said, I can get more bang for my buck with a built crate engine. Right now it looks like I will be using the 383 below.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint+Eng...0&cadevice=m&gclid=CPv-xsDbj84CFQoJaQodHsINdQ
 

Dneel81

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if yours is a 4x4, find a 4x4 14 bolt semi-float 6 lug axle (ALL other 14 bolt rear ends are 8 lug).
it's a direct swap. I went with something from these guys. They're super to work with (http://www.tsmmfg.com/2620X2.htm). spring perch width is the exact same, bleed them and you'll need a proportioning valve if going from drums to disk otherwise your ass end will lock up on you and you'll spin instead of stopping straight.
 

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