They gave me their "report" already, which was completely worthless, unfortunately. Here's what it says.
Seemed after they got my vehicle in, the turned their nose and just dealt with me as another number. I spoke to the tech yesterday, and he told me outright that he would *not* drop the pan unless he was going to rebuild the transmission, which is $11k to start with, and then he would drop the price as needed if/when he found things he could reuse. His "diagnostic" told me nothing that I didn't already know.
If I'm going to pay someone $11k to simply drop the pan for an inspection (which I can do myself) and to conduct a real diagnostic, I'll just pay an extra $1k and get an entirely new transmission. I just can't believe how inept/incompetent folks are these days. It's basically pick-your-poison: either you deal with a money grubbing shop who doesn't really care and immediately tells you to rebuild the transmission, or the stealership who doesn't know anything and defaults to just throwing parts at it to see what sticks.
Sorry, I didn't see your post with that update (still don't).
While that sucks, you know how the old saying goes, "If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself" and you alluded to as much above.
Here's what I would do if I were you
AND you plan on keeping the truck for the foreseeable future:
- Purchase a bi-directional scan tool - you cannot be DYI on modern, later model vehicles and not have one
- Purchase the Sonnax vacuum test machine and a small air pump - you'll need the air pump to work with the tester
- Purchase a DVOM with a set of probes, if you don't already have one
- Purchase the ATSG manual for the GM 10L transmission
Then read up on how the 10L works, what can go wrong and how to diagnose faults with the solenoids, valve body, spacer plate, channel plate, torque converter etc. Then take the vehicle on a test drive with your scan tool plugged in, showing live transmission and TCC data streams so you have an overall well-rounded picture of what's going on.
Once you confirm it's the TCC slipping, you can drop the pan and do a visual inspection of what's at the bottom...If you see a whole bunch of burnt material or piles of fine aluminum or brass-colored matter, you can stop your diagnosis, put the pan back on with a few bolts and yank the trans and converter for replacement. If what's in the pan is largely unremarkable, proceed to dropping the valve body and solenoids and performing your testing...If you find the TCC valves are worn, purchase the Sonnax replacement valve kits and install. If your DVOM shows a bad TCC solenoid and/or you have a DTC pointing to that solenoid, replace it.
Assuming no other clutch circuits show as worn on the tester, put the valve body back together and reinstall it, fill with fluid following correct procedures, perform any fast adapt relearn as required then take it for a test drive. Hopefully you can get away with fixing it by doing the above as it will be a lot less costly for you then having to replace the valve body or the entire transmission/TC.
Let us know what happens or if you have additional questions...
