1989 C4 Functional Restoration

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SirReal63

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I should explain the need for UHMWP, the shifter on the ZF S6-40 transmission uses ultra high molecular weight plastic as bushings for the pins on the shifter. They are sort of a wear item but tend to last many decades. Unfortunately on mine they were completely missing. When I opened up the shifter this is what I saw...

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I "fixed" it initially with some 3/4 UHMWP round stock that I had. I had to drill it off center to get the height as close as I could, I undersized the hole and drove them on. It was a temporary fix that I hoped would last, it has lasted but needs to be done correctly.

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This is what the original shape was like, though this one is incorrect, it came from a Ford F350 ZF 5 speed. The outer dimensions are correct but the pin is smaller on the Ford.
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The original part is no longer made and next to impossible to find and if you find them, they are over 3 decades old. This is a part I can make, the plastic is cheap and machines easily.
 

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Looking at your rpo sticker I see the 8.5 ring gear and 3.33 ratio, but no positraction code. That car have an open differential? Lots of good work in the car!
 
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SirReal63

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Looking at your rpo sticker I see the 8.5 ring gear and 3.33 ratio, but no positraction code. That car have an open differential? Lots of good work in the car!
Thanks, it has been a labor of madness.

I believe all of the C4's had limited slip, both the Dana 36 (auto) and the Dana 44 (manual) as standard equipment, I don't know what flavor of LSD GM used in them but could probably find out. Both tires do spin the same direction when lifted, I just checked since it is on jack stands while I clean power steering fluid off the front of the engine. I hope it continues to function correctly, I dread the day I have take that down and open it up. This car is about as base model as it gets, the only unusual option was the TPMS.
 
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Project subwoofer Part One. I went ahead and started this project as I am waiting on formed power steering return hoses, I have the entire power steering system torn apart currently as there is a slow leak, I hate waiting on parts.

I really have missed not having low bass, this car is desperately needing some bump. I had already decided on a Kicker Solo-Baric L7S8 2 ohm DVC as it is a near perfect physical fit in the passenger side rear cubby. It is really the only place to make a sub fit without sacrificing the already non-existent space in the rear compartment. I really want to take this car on one of my mini-vacations and need every inch of space I can get for overnight bags and such. Now to make it work and play low enough.

What I had to work with...

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This cubby has it's own issue, there are wires that run through it and exit out behind the seat...

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I have no idea what the unconnected plug is for but I zip tied it securely to the other bundle. All of them are now held tightly and will not vibrate.
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When I gutted the interior and ran the Frost King and Butyl KilMat I sealed this up as well as I could before putting the jute and carpet back over it. I contorted myself like a pretzel and added more Butyl to the cubby this time and ran a piece along that back wall. That wire is not ideal and short of gutting the interior I can not adequately seal that up to be completely air tight but there will be much less air pressure being exerted on it with a ported box, so it will be what it will be.

I modeled this "enclosure" in WinIsd, BassBox Pro and Unibox408 and wasn't thrilled with any of them, this isn't really a software issue, though all of them gave different results, but more of my box design being too complicated for my designing abilities. Perhaps someone else could model this to perfection, I cannot. Calculating the available space in that cubby was easy and I could have made a sealed design and it would have worked, but it would not have played very low and I want as low as I can get with an 8" so that meant a ported design. I have .86 cu ft. to work with, that is if I do not build a box to fit within that box, more on the solution to that later. The issue is the port and where to put it. The only place to put a long port is over the tunnel and into the right side cubby. The math checked out and I could build my "enclosure" and run a rectangular port over the tunnel but that presented challenges as well, mainly the port size to get the 35hz I wanted to tune it to. Once again every piece of software came up with a different port size to get to 35hz tune. I went with a basic port calculator from the12volt.com and built it.

I made the port 6" wide and 1.5" tall and approx. 20" long, folded to go down into the driver cubby. My hope in terminating the port into that cubby is to slow down the air speed exiting the port into the listening area, no chuffing wanted, and with a 6" wide port it is possible. Of course making the port over the tunnel meant I had to raise the top baffle to allow that 1.5" port. The baffle has to be secured tightly to the car, fortunately the fiberglass shelf the stock enclosure screws to is the perfect place to attach the baffle and the rest of the factory screw locations fit perfectly for the baffle, even the nubs the screws fit into are in a great location to be reused. I used med. density particle board for the baffle, Oak and MDF for the rest of the baffle structure and coating it epoxy and painted it black.

The Oak strip that will the baffle will mount to opposite the waterfall. I added some nutserts to screw the baffle to so it is easily removed if needed and foam gasketing all around. Screws in place to hold it together until the epoxy cures. It isn't pretty but it doesn't have to be, I will add some KilMat over the top of the baffle when I am satisfied with the tuning so it will never be seen and the carpet will cover it. I have some misc. nuts and machine screws coming in tomorrow to attach the sub, all of mine were too short or too big.

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I had some blowouts while making the countersinks, I should have epoxied before drilling but it holds down fine.


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Final mock up, I will put the stock speaker cover over the driver side hole/port exit. I will need to make a cover for sub, the one Kicker makes is woefully inadequate to protect the sub.

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The amp rack as it currently is.

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I will need a different amp, though the old RF amps from the 90's were very under rated for actual power output it will not provide enough power for the sub even with channel C bridged. The dynamic rating for the amp is 190 watts bridged @ 4ohms and the sub is rated for 450 watts RMS (375 in ported enclosure) and 900 dynamic. It will work for now but I cannot really drive the sub hard which is OK as my goal is not to be heard from 1/4 mile away but to give some low bass to the system. I looked up what this old amp goes for on evilbay and in good working condition and good cosmetic condition they are selling for over $300 with a couple currently for sale at $400. I may get a different amp and sell this one, as much as I hate to let this old beast go, I am not a museum and have too much junk already.
 
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SirReal63

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This update is a little disjointed and all over the place, it was a weird week.

I finally got all of the power steering soft lines in, have I mentioned I hate waiting on parts?
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I thought I had taken a pic of the state of the engine/steering rack/general area before I started cleaning but I did not. It was horrid, the black mess was 1/8-1/4" or more in places. The top of the rack where the lines connect was covered all the way over the top of the nuts that hold the lines in place. It took a few days of soaking, scrubbing and poking it with a stick to get it clean enough to work on.

This isn't really clean, but it was good enough to work on. It had been leaking a very long time.

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There were no obvious signs of where it was leaking but the return and feed hoses were rock hard and a little chewed up at the connection points. The pump and brackets cleaned up nicely, this was the only number I found on the pump, I have no idea if it is a replacement or not, I did not take the time to run the number and see.

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Project Subwoofer, Part two.

I did finish constructing the sub box, It took a lot of fiddling to get the port length and box volume close enough to make it play like i wanted. The port ended up being 1.5" tall, 6" wide and almost 26" in length which should be tuned at about 28hz, I measured the center of the port to get that length. Total box volume, taking into account the volume of the port, which you typically do when the port is internal to the box, not sure how an external port factors in, I decided to include it which gave me approx. 1.1 cu ft of volume. It does play cleanly and low so I am happy with it. I do have a little buzz at 70hz so I need to figure where that is and correct it.

The folded port...

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All buttoned up and ready to play...

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How much space did all of this cost me? Not very much, the baffle took up 1.5x11.25x32" which is barely noticeable. There is still enough room for an overnight bag or two.

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I am going to revisit the amp rack at some point, probably when I replace the amp as the new amps are significantly smaller in total footprint than the old RF beast. The original Bose speaker cover is being used to cover the port. Now I need to build a cover for the sub, I have a few ideas I am kicking around.

I do realize the passenger cubby isn't stiff enough to prevent any resonating/flexing so I will need to address that. As I stated earlier adding to the interior of the box will only make the volume less and I cannot make the volume less and hit my tuning design. That leaves adding mass and strength to the exterior of the box as much as I can. I am a bit of a hoarder, if something is useable I tend to save it, especially if it something not easily replaced. I have some compressed fiberglass plates that appear to be a perfect fit for the need. I cannot tell if these are SMC or a G10 variety, but they are incredibly stiff.

They are 1/8" thick, 2" wide and 11.5" long. I wanted to see just how stiff so I bent one of them. The deflection with 10lbs of lead dive weights was 1/8" over about 10" of span, it laughed off the first 5lb's. That's pretty strong!

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My plan is to strip and sand the underside of the passenger cubby and epoxy a few of these to it. The size works out almost perfectly and should greatly increase the rigidity of the cubby. I will undercoat it when finished to make it blend in. That will happen later because listening to the sub it actually sounds good as is. I just know I can tighten up the bass more with a stiffer box.

I did a lot of tuning of the bass, bought a little O-scope to set the gains. The little FNIRSI DS-O152 mini oscilloscope was impressive and can do a lot more than I would ever need. I first determined the max volume of the headunit before clipping was present, next the gain of the EQ and finally set the gain for all 5 channels of amplification with the bridged sub gain set at 40hz to 120hz and the left/right, front/back speaker gains at 500hz, 1khz, 3.5khz and 8khz. It was pretty easy with downloaded test tones. I spent most of the frequency tuning with the sub to get it to blend in nicely with the fronts. I will need to spend some time tuning the front speakers as they are a little bright on "S's" but overall the sound is fantastic. The sub plays 25hz at about -6db down, 35 hz at about -3db and 40hz flat, you can feel the 25hz with the volume up but it is still 40hz dominant as expected.

I made a little 2 minute video of it playing a bass heavy song. If you know the Boz Skaggs album Dig they you know it is one of the lowest bass recordings out there for mainstream music. It is a spectacular album as well. I used my Blue Yeti first to record the sound and cellphone for video then mixed them together. I was unhappy with the Blue Yeti and it's bass response, which I suspected I would be, it is a great all around mic but better for spoken voice than low bass recording. I hesitantly pulled out my Marantz MPM-100U because it a little on the fragile side but it recorded the sound perfectly. I did no post sound enhancement so the volume is a little low and the S's a little bright, which I will try and tune out with the EQ. Enjoy this little snippet, best listened to on real headphones, home theater or lastly a good set of ear buds but don't expect to get the low bass with ear buds. It obviously will not sound this clean while driving but it will give an indication of how the system sounds.

 
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SirReal63

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I haven't done much actual work on the car, the weather is nice and other things needed attention here.

I do still have a drip in the power steering system, I bought some UV dye and it indicates the leak is where the steering shaft enters the rack. It looks like a reseal is in my future, though it isn't bad, one look at the front of the engine tells me it is bad enough to deal with. This is a job I am not looking forward to, I know it is not going to be easy and the car will be down for however long it takes to do.

I took care of something that has bothered me since I replaced the top. The passenger side lip where the frame attaches to the windshield was not glued correctly and it sticks up like Elvis singing.

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The fix was actually easy though it terrified me to do as that area has a lot of pulling force on it when the top is fastened. I removed the trim ring that hides the transition from canvas to metal and gently peeled the canvas away all the way to the middle of the top bow, there was a natural slit in the canvas where the top was glued correctly. I removed the glue from the frame and canvas as best as I could. Cleaned it and reapplied some Weld Contact Cement, let it air dry to the proper tack and clamped it in the correct position. I left it clamped for several days and unclamped for several more days and it is holding now. Hopefully it will not release in the Summer heat, though the trim ring does help keep it in place.

It is a small thing but makes a huge difference.

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I finished the sub box, made some simple covers that utilize the stock speaker covers. Just a simple wood surround and some ABS on top to keep the bulk down. They are currently velcro'd in place but I suspect will have to use a screw or bolt to make them secure.

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I spent several days fine tuning the stereo. If I push it hard it does heat up more than it ever has, not dangerously hot but the amp is clearly being pushed to it's design limits to run the power hungry Solo-Baric. This old amp is in too nice of condition to abuse so I ordered a more appropriate amp for the system. I researched this to death, as I typically like to do when I can and the car audio world is as slimy as it has ever been. RMS rating are even more useless now than they were in the past for many brands. Every amp I considered I looked at a video of someone testing it on an amp dyno. While some overstate their rating (sometimes massively) some understate them as well, (sometimes massively) and that is just as bad as over rating them. (*cough* D4S *cough*) I was actually going to go for a Down 4 Sound amp as they are probably the best dollar to watt amp out there. The problem is the under rated wattage, this isn't a big deal for an 86dB speaker which wants a lot of power but the Kappas are 95dB sensitivity speaker, very efficient and do not need gobs of power (75rms and 225 dynamic). Since I will be pushing the two fronts hard with the top down and at speed I do not want to fry them.

Finding an amp with appropriate wattage for the Kappas and appropriate wattage for the power hungry sub was a challenge without spending way more money than I want to. I also did not want to go with multiple amps because of the space issue, the old RF already takes up too much space. I had been looking hard at the Stinger line of amps but Stinger had several years of being slimy, though the specs were a perfect fit for my needs. Williston Audio finally did a dyno of one the multi-channel amps I was considering. He had done the mono block before and it met without exceeding it's rating beautifully but I am avoiding multiple amps. I had the MT600.4 on my mind but knowing Stinger in the past I kept it as a contender only. Williston's recent dyno of the MT600.4 showed to actually match it's rating nearly perfect. It gave me the confidence to buy the one I really wanted, the MT1000.5 as the 600.4 would have to be run in 3 channel mode and I may end up with rear speakers again at some point, the 1000.5 gives me that flexibility with 4 speaker channels and one dedicated sub channel.

Aside from acceptable power ratings it is a near perfect fit in other areas. Almost three times the wattage as the old RF and about a third of the size. The most important dimension is height, as what I have now has to be tilted back to fit the top, losing that valuable space at the floor level. The new amp will fit flat against the back wall and it has enough crossover settings that I can eliminate the EQ completely. This should clean things up nicely.

Old and new.

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Unfortunately I will have to run new power and ground as the RF could get away with 8 gauge but the new amp needs 4 gauge. I have an adequate quantity of 2 gauge welding wire to handle the task on hand so I will run that. I sure hope I can hide that large wire.
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I also ordered a 120 amp Blue Seas Marine circuit breaker for a fuse/cutoff. I am currently running a Chinesium 50 amp breaker on the old amp and it is great to click a button and disable voltage to the amp, but with twice the amperage potential, I went with a brand I trust and have used before. Pray for my alternator.
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One other thing I did was wash and wax the car. The first real wax job since painting the body. I really need to paint the hood but that will probably wait until Fall.

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