1996 Yukon Transfer Case Problem?

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YukonDude

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Hey guys

I just bought this truck for fixing up. Started off thinking it had different problems now ended up here.I have been trying to figure out why my transfer case is grinding and clicking. When I put it in drive it will go with ticking/clicking but when I switch to reverse it makes this painful to the ears grinding in the transfer case and it doesn't go. Neutral is also ticking and clicking so you can't physically even push the truck when it's in neutral unless of course you use another truck lol. I am getting aggravated to the point where If I don't figure out I might have to just replace the whole transfer case but I don't want to make that mistake if it's something simple? I researched a little bit and only found that there might be a snap ring problem in the rear main drive shaft housing that holds the bearing in place? Any one of you guys been down this road before? Any help will be appreciated.Thanks.
 

DJTricky

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the same shit happend to mine one of the times it went out. there is a snap ring on the output shaft that came off. you will need to have a shop rebuild it.
 
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YukonDude

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Thanks a lot DJTRricky. Forget the shop, I will try to tackle this project myself. I used to work in the garage so I know a couple mechanics that will give me a hint or a hand just in case I don't know how to do something. But it's funny because they all were telling me different things that might be wrong, so It's nice to have a computer and communicate with people that experienced these same problems. It just sucks that I won't be able to roll the truck into the garage and lift it up, gotta do it on the jack, and I hate doing it that way, just as I hated to drop the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump in that truck on the jack, omg what a pain. But this snap ring business will be even worse because there is that center cross beam or whatever you call it, right underneath the transfer case and that drive shaft housing.I'm jealous of people with garages and lifts :p

---------- Post added at 08:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

Oh yeah and this is what I found to replace the snap ring with... http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cat...placements_and_parts/transfer_case_saver.html
 
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YukonDude

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I just wanted to update on my slow going project. I took off the drive shaft and the tail housing from the transfer case to see if the snap ring was broken...well to my disappointment it was all in one piece, I was hoping it would be that easy fix, but now from the looks of it I'm going to replace the whole case which is not fun for me lol. Oh yeah, when I removed that that tail housing there was like practically no oil in there, only a few drops. Shouldn't it have oil in there like a pint at least? So I figure there is probably little to none oil in the t-case, and that's what ruined it?
 

T-Bagg

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The lack of oil may have been a culprit. Pulling a T-case is a pain in the ass. Especially since that frame cross member is riveted in. When I pulled and replaced mine. I was by myself. My truck is high enough I didn't need a jack.
That case weighs what, just over 80 pounds? I wrestled with mine and finally squeezed it out... After flipping it and rotating it until it was back wards and upside down. The body lift probably gave me enough clearance to move it like that.

Good luck to you.
 
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YukonDude

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Hey T-Bagg thanks for the reply. So, did you have to chisel off the rivets and remove the cross member? Because I was wondering the same thing, I was like why the f.ck they put rivets there? To piss me off?
 

josetizapan

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Have you checked the t-case motor when mine went out it made that sound you are discribing.
 
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YukonDude

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Yeah I was underneath while having someone put it in gear, I was listening to the motor and I put my hand on it and it was vibrating...I don't know if there is an easier way of checking it? But I figure since there was no oil in the tail housing when I took it apart somebody must have ran it dry or low on oil and POP. I'm probably just going to buy a used t-case fill it up with oil and that's all, I can get one for around $200+. Just curious about the cross member and rivets. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for replacing the t-case?
 

95TwinTT

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DO NOT remove the cross member with the rivits. The cross member you want to mess with is the one that has the transmission mount on it. It has bolts holding it to the frame.

Those bolts have been known to be difficult if they are rusted. The nut on the top has to travel over an inch or more of threads to remove them.

penetrating oil will help get them in the mood. :)
 
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YukonDude

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Thanks for the tip 95TwinTT. Luckily the underneath frame and most of the other components have little to no rust so I shouldn't have too much trouble with the bolts, but I will definitely spray some PB Blaster on them.
 

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