1999 Tahoe maintenance questions

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Stresst

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Slowhoe's advice is not quite correct. If your tranny is on it's last legs you can squeek a few more miles out of it by leaving the fluid alone, ie don't change any of it. This is because the friction bits have been worn off your clutch plates and are floating around in the fluid providing some final few miles.

If your tranny can't handle having its fluid fully flushed...it's already worn out.

When you drop the pan less than half of the fluid comes out so it's really just a big waste of time and money.

You wouldn't drain half the oil out of your engine...

I would say he is correct, R & S Strauss will not even drain the fluid due to high failure rate. The new fluid is thick and causes the plates to slip. The problem is you dont know if there already worn. IMO like stated better to leave it alone.
 

longstand

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Slowhoe's advice is not quite correct. If your tranny is on it's last legs you can squeek a few more miles out of it by leaving the fluid alone, ie don't change any of it. This is because the friction bits have been worn off your clutch plates and are floating around in the fluid providing some final few miles.

If your tranny can't handle having its fluid fully flushed...it's already worn out.

When you drop the pan less than half of the fluid comes out so it's really just a big waste of time and money.

You wouldn't drain half the oil out of your engine...

Thats why, iam worry about changing my Tranny Fluid.. when i change my Manuel Tranny FLuid on my other car. it fell funny for a while.. after a few kk Miles it fell the same like it was.
 

TahoeJim

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If you aren't sure when the coolant or hoses have been replaced, do it all at the same time:

Upper and lower radiator hoses
2 bypass hoses for the water pump
4 heater hoses (either side of heater control valve which is under the air cleaner tubing)
New 16 pound radiator cap
New thermostat

Flush out and change all of your other fluids:

Engine oil
Transmission fluid
Power steering fluid
Brake fluid
Transfer case lube
Front and Rear differential fluid

Serpentine belt and the idler pulley tensionerr.

If yours still has the original style GM battery and side terminals, pull those bolts out and see what shape they are. If corroded heavily, throw them away and replace them for less than $5.00, coat everything in dielectric grease. Unbolt and clean all the battery cable connections, clean and grease as necessary.

Just because they're cheap, put a new gas cap, ensure the system is pressurized as it should be. If the filler next is crusty on the edge, clean it with a scotchbrite pad or similar.

Heading into winter, throw new wiper blades on it.

How are your headlights.....are the lenses cloudy/chalky at all? Polish them with some rubbing compound.

Check all your running lights, back up lights, etc...make sure you can see and be seen.

Check to make sure you have the jack and tire changing tools in your truck
Lower your spare tire and check it's condition and inflate it to maximum pressure.
 

sparg93

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I've never done differential fluid before...what is the procedure for checking, draining, filling?

Under what circumstances would you change it out and/or top it off?
 

SunlitComet

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Follow the manual for 100,000 maintenance and fix what is broken or as it breaks. That will keep your cost low for now. Your manual will tell you how to deal with tranny fluid inspection and replacement.

---------- Post added at 02:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:32 AM ----------

Sparge, remove the plug on differential and check to see that the fluid level is within 1/4" of the the plug hole. To drain the rear just remove the cover and reinstall with a new gasket and refill it till fluid comes out of the hole then plug it.

---------- Post added at 02:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:35 AM ----------

BTW replace and rubber component that has been in contact with brake fluid or P/S fluid if you have not done so already as they will deteriorate quickly.
 

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